OK... the city boy is showing

[Mopar92]

Alright guys. You all have been a huge help in finding and buying an 8N tractor. I have really enjoyed owning it. I am slowly fixing it up and fixing little things. I unhooked the bush hog today. It was fairly straight forward. However, I had to keep figiting with the 3 point height to get the lift arms to come off. Otherwise, the dang pins were under too much load to get it out of the lift arm. What's the easy way to do this? Seems like a 15 minute deal to hook/unhook a BH from the 3 point. Thanks.

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by Mopar92

Alright guys. You all have been a huge help in finding and buying an 8N tractor. I have really enjoyed owning it. I am slowly fixing it up and fixing little things. I unhooked the bush hog today. It was fairly straight forward. However, I had to keep figiting with the 3 point height to get the lift arms to come off. Otherwise, the dang pins were under too much load to get it out of the lift arm. What's the easy way to do this? Seems like a 15 minute deal to hook/unhook a BH from the 3 point. Thanks.

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I think one of the most important thing when you hook or unhook an implement to a tractor is to have the implement on level ground. same is also true with the tractor. Implements are heavy and gravity is the rule. I always have a piece of 1-1/2" pipe, crow bar, 2x4 to pry things up. I always have cut of pieces of 4x4, 2x2 lumber to help support the weight if needed. I would not recommend just use of shear force since if something is binding and not coming apart may have some stored energy in form of spring action. You do not want to be on the receiving end of sored energy. Bottom line take your time ,keep your fingers, toes safely out of ways and practice makes it perfect.

good luck,
JC

[jinman]

Originally Posted by Mopar92

Alright guys. You all have been a huge help in finding and buying an 8N tractor. I have really enjoyed owning it. I am slowly fixing it up and fixing little things. I unhooked the bush hog today. It was fairly straight forward. However, I had to keep figiting with the 3 point height to get the lift arms to come off. Otherwise, the dang pins were under too much load to get it out of the lift arm. What's the easy way to do this? Seems like a 15 minute deal to hook/unhook a BH from the 3 point. Thanks.

I have always just found the most level spot available and then dropped the lift arms all the way down. I use the tilt adjustment on the right arm if there is load still on the arms. Adjusting the right tilt will also effect the left arm. I think you will learn this after a few sessions of attaching and removing the cutter or any other implement. Finally, a small hammer or 2x4 to whack the arm on the flat area just in front of the ball hitch will produce the desired result in most instances.

...and I always used to keep a bungee cord to hold my stabilizer bars up on my old Ford tractor. I was too lazy to take them off, so I just bungeed them up until I got the lift arms onto the implement. Then I'd lift the implement and move it left-right to install the stabilizers.

[Bird]

Like jinman said, let the 3-point hitch all the way down.

[Farmwithjunk]

Sounds like the hitch may be binding because of attempting to unhitch with the mower and rear tires not being together on a flat surface. Not only will that make it hard to UNhitch, it will be equally difficult to hitch it back up next time. If everything is setting level and on the same plane, you should be able to pull the draft links off with little or no effort.

[Mopar92]

I bought the setup from a Tractor place. Bush hog and all. Maybe I should take a pic of it and let you guys see "their" setup. I have chains on mine to keep it from swaying back and forth. I think they are so tight that it does not allow me to put the lift arms on easily. That would be a pain to have to take the bolts out of the chain links, hook up the mower, pull links out of the chain to make it tight again, and then go mow. Lemme take a pic. Maybe you guys can help me make an easier setup. Seeya

[daTeacha]

That's the key -- the lift arms have to be able to move laterally to unhook or hook up an implement. There should be some relatively simple way to take the tension off the limiter chains. My DX has a telescoping tube with cross pin arrangement, Kubota's have turnbuckles. I remember my old 8N had chains, but I could move the arms toward the tires to detach them from the implement.

Are your implement pins facing outward? Some guys mount them facing in. If I remember right, the chains on the 8N limit movement toward the center line so the two sides work together to keep the implement in line. If your pins face in, then the chains would keep you from taking things off.

On the other hand, if your chains are anchored by the center of the axle, they would work to keep the lift arms from moving toward the tire on each side and you would want your pins facing in to allow you to move the arms toward the center to detach the implement.

Either way, there should be a little slack in the chains when the implement is sitting level behind the tractor.

[Mopar92]

The chains are on the center of the axle. With the lift arms full spread, it's a (pain) to get them on the mower. Maybe 1 link out on each side would be ok and still keep the mower in line?

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by Mopar92

The chains are on the center of the axle. With the lift arms full spread, it's a pain to get them on the mower. Maybe 1 link out on each side would be ok and still keep the mower in line?

Have you tried to lower the implement on some wood blocking so you are not stretching the chain too tight? Like that you may not have to drop the 3point all the way down.

JC,

[Soundguy]

Like the others siad.. drop the implement on a level spot.. and for something like a hog.. i drop mine on wood blocks onte eqges.. keeps it off the ground.. and allows the 3pt arms to relaxe and thus no pressure on the pins.

soundguy