Ford 1920 clutch Help needed

[MIkeWard]

This is my first post on this forum.


I have a 1989 Ford 1920 tractor.2,000 hrs
I致e only had it for a short time and have used it for about 6-10 hours.
I致e been moving sand with the loader and some light clearing of weeds nothing really too overgrown.
The last day or so I noticed a lack of power. I had trouble backing up. Seemed to take a while after engaging the clutch. This is on level ground.

I now also can稚 climb even a slight incline.
In foward or reverse (midrange second gear)

It seems like a bad clutch. How difficult and expensive is it to replace the clutch in a 1920?
I致e ordered a repair manual.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

MIke Ward

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by MIkeWard

This is my first post on this forum.


I have a 1989 Ford 1920 tractor.2,000 hrs
I致e only had it for a short time and have used it for about 6-10 hours.
I致e been moving sand with the loader and some light clearing of weeds nothing really too overgrown.
The last day or so I noticed a lack of power. I had trouble backing up. Seemed to take a while after engaging the clutch. This is on level ground.

I now also can稚 climb even a slight incline.
In foward or reverse (midrange second gear)

It seems like a bad clutch. How difficult and expensive is it to replace the clutch in a 1920?
I致e ordered a repair manual.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

MIke Ward

Do you a live PTO? if so then you have dual clutch setup, parts are expensive but labor is about the same with a bit more time on adjustment for dual clutch vs single. There may be an outside chance that release bearing is pushing on fingers on pressure plate (i.e disengaging the clutch ) slightly when the clutch pedal is released. In other words your are riding clutch unintentionally to the point your clutch plate is slipping. if that happens to be the case adjustment of the clutch may help you. Replacing old clutch with a new needs a tractor split, if you are handy have time and a place (cement floor) it is not a major issue. The labor should be between $1100 to $1400 minus the part in my area. I'll make sure I check it all before I take a dive.

JC,

[MIkeWard]

JC,
Thanks for the info.
Not sure if of the PTO live or not. How can I tell?
This is my first time using or owning a tractor and I have a lot to learn.

I think I'll try to replace the clutch.
I have a 20x20 blacktop area out of the way.
Are there any special tool that I'll need?

Mike

[JC-jetro]

Originally Posted by MIkeWard

JC,
Thanks for the info.
Not sure if of the PTO live or not. How can I tell?
This is my first time using or owning a tractor and I have a lot to learn.

I think I'll try to replace the clutch.
I have a 20x20 blacktop area out of the way.
Are there any special tool that I'll need?

Mike

Mike,

There is a ton of stuff abut PTO live or otherwise in this forum. Do use the search engine and limit the search to type model or general and you'll find much knowledge base there. Basically , in live PTO rotation of PTO is independent of the rotation of wheels.(i.e , tractor not moving and can have PTO running). There are a some twist of flavor and some terminology that is used interchangeably between manufacturer's also. Most live PTO action is achieved by 2 clutch disk and two pressure plate that are sandwiched together as an assembly. The clutch disk are splined a bit differently size wise and are couple to two shaft on solid (inner) and one round( outer) on of these shafts runs pto clutch disk and the other transmission clutch disk. Now, to find which you have, normally you only need to press clutch pedal half way and that disengages transmission so you can shift. if you push all the way that causes the second pressure plate to release along with PTO clutch. the way I suggest you to find out is go to a safe spot after you started the tractor, turn the pto on how you normally do, (may be like, gear in neutral, tractor running, clutch all the way pushed in, engage pto lever and let the clutch go) in that fix , the tractor is stationary, pto should be turning. while you look at the pto shaft start pushing the clutch plate half way and try to engage forward gear, if no grinding and tractor moves while pto is turning then you have a live pto. if you have to push all the way then your have transmission driven pto, (i.e, one shaft that runs both pto and transmission and one clutch plate).

As far as replacement, I have done several rear wheel drive and couple of front wheel drive clutch replacement while I was a poor college kid but have never done it on tractors. I find tractor specially the size of 1700 and 1900 to be much easier. trying to remove the transmission while car supported on stands without proper transmission jack is a pain you know where. a flat spot is needed as you will separate the tractor at the clutch housing, to do that all the connecting hydraulic, electrical linkages should be removed. if you do not have a loader it is quite easy. Take many detailed pic before you start to help you put thing together and if you want you can mark them all with label just before you separate thing. A com e along and another vehicle can be use to slowly separate the two ends after you have removed all the connecting bolts and nuts. You want to make sure the tractor does not flip. if I were to do it I'd put my carry all on the tractor before I start lower to the point that can keep the tractor in perfect level position and chock the back wheel. with th help of jack stand , floor top jack on wheel I manage pulling apart of the front section. I move it enough to have access to clutch assembly , slowly remove the bolt in some uniform manner to avoid twisting the pressure plate. single clutch and I see if I need to resurface the pressure plate or reuse or replace entirely. if live PTO you'll need to remove the whole assembly. I do use aligning toll to align he spline with the transmission/pto shaft input shaft. Put both end together and torque to spec and it is a done deal for next 25years.


JC,


Ps. no special tool is necessary as long as you have accumulated normal tool stuff, a good 1/2 socket with 1/2 breaker bar is necessary. Jack stands and floor jack is also a must.

[MIkeWard]

Thanks for the good info JC!
I've been searching on the forum for Ford 1920 and clutch but will do more with PTO. Once I figure out which clutch I have I'll try to order one.
There's no big rush to fix it except I'd like to be using it to move a shed, logs (future firewood) ,regrade the yard (Mostly sand) and transplanting mature shrubs.
For the next week or so I'm going to try to educate myself, read the repair manual when I get it (a couple of days)and get myself knowledgeable enough to do this repair. Then order the parts and get to it!

Thanks again JC. If anyone has any other advice to offer I would really appreciate it. This forum is a lifesaver!

Mike

[RickB]

Before you do anything else, adjust the pedal freeplay to about an inch and a quarter; see if that helps.
Don't get all twisted up about which clutch you have, there is only one choice for a 1920, and it's a double clutch. I wouldn't order the whole assembly ahead of time unless you have gobs of money to spend, you may only need a transmission disc and pilot and release bearings. Find out if you have a dealer for A&I or HyCapacity in your area, aftermarket clutch parts are more affordable than OEM. If there is a decent clutch/brake shop nearby, they can reline friction discs, too.

[MIkeWard]

Thanks for the info RickB

A&I or HyCapacity Never heard of A&I do they have a longer name spelled out?
Messicks has a Hy Capacity clutch for $508.00

I went out and had trhe PTO running.
Pushed the clutch in halfway and it did not stop.
It did not stop when I pushed it all the way in either.
does this mean that the other half of the dual clutch is shot also?

Mike

[RickB]

The PTO is acting "normally" for a double clutch that has a worn out transmission disc. The trans disc is so thin, and the pedal adjustment has been used up to compensate so much, that there isn't enough travel left internally to release the PTO disc. This is all based on my experiences, and what you are telling us; your results may vary. Here is a link to A&I's website.
A&I Products: A leading manufacturer and distributor of agricultural and industrial products

[JC-jetro]

Mike,

I second what Rick Said. You may be able to adjust the clutch (ie. getting the throwout bearing,clutch release arm) closer to fingers on the pressure plate may potentially release the PTO when you press the clutch all the way. That may be a good thing ,now the bad thing is your throw our bearing is constantly riding on fingers of the pressure plate and that ain't good at all. That's recipe for eventual speedy failure and also not having enough torque for the transmission.

JC,

[RickB]

Originally Posted by JC-jetro

Mike,

I second what Rick Said. You may be able to adjust the clutch (ie. getting the throwout bearing,clutch release arm) closer to fingers on the pressure plate may potentially release the PTO when you press the clutch all the way. That may be a good thing ,now the bad thing is your throw our bearing is constantly riding on fingers of the pressure plate and that ain't good at all. That's recipe for eventual speedy failure and also not having enough torque for the transmission.

JC,

An inch and a quarter of pedal freeplay won't endanger the pressure plate fingers or the release bearing.