Oil Press Light Out = No Start !!

[kozak]

My Turn !

Tried to start tractor today & no go. Noticed PTO light on & thought....OK....this should be an easy fix since it has happenned to me before.

Went ahead & replaced infamous Fuse #2 (7.5 A) & sure enough it was blown. Piece of cake right......WRONG !!
PTO Light went out as it should have but now my Oil Press Light does not light up when I try to start. NO Go

Checked all the other fuses & all looked good. Checked elec schematic in manual and the Oil Press Light is part of cct. #058. The only other device on this circuit is the Oil Press Switch wired in series. So if this switch is not made, Oil Light will not energize. The thing that puzzles me is why the motor will not start if this circuit is not part of a permissive to start. (At least from what I can tell.)

I am going to go out & replace fuse #4 anyways & see if that does anything.

H E L P !!


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!

Thanks,

Vic

[kozak]

Forgot to ask........does anybody know where the press switch is located on the Class III Boomers ??

Thanks,

Vic

[jinman]

Originally Posted by kozak

Forgot to ask........does anybody know where the press switch is located on the Class III Boomers ??

Thanks,

Vic

Vic, I was having trouble with my internet provider yesterday most of the day and did not see your post until this morning. Hopefully, you have found the problem by now. Anyhow, the oil pressure switch is on the top front of the engine. I think it's just above the water pump. The coolant temperature switch is on the left hand side above the alternator. I think if you look at the front of the engine you will see the oil pressure switch pigtail electrical wire that looks similar to the coolant temperature probe.

The oil pressure switch opens when the engine oil pressure is above 6 psi. With the engine off, you should be able to read zero ohms between the probe and ground because the switch is closed.

Are you sure you don't have dirty battery terminals also? Your problem sounds like the battery might be making intermittent contact and causing fuse #2 to blow...just a guess. Do the headlights work? If the lights don't work and the tractor won't attempt to start, then you could have dirty terminals or the main 40 amp fuse could be blown. If you have good electrical power and the engine won't turn over, then you need to check the safety circuit. If the engine turns over and won't start, then you have to look for a problem with the fuel solenoid circuit. Fuse #2 is part of that circuit.

Good luck. Nothing is more frustrating than a tractor that won't start.

[kozak]

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. I'll check some of your suggestions tonight after work.

Vic

[kozak]

Jim,

Checked battery terminals & the positive terminal had some corrosion on it. Cleaned up. Lots of power to headlights. When I try to start I see battery light, brake light & glow plug light. Just no oil light.

Tried to locate press switch but not totally sure if what I am looking at is indeed the press switch. You don't happen to have a schematic of the engine showing location do you. At any rate, even if the switch is the culprit I don't think that will get the tractor started.......agreed ?

I checked all the safety switches. Was able to disconnect the seat switch & jumper terminals but still no go. Do the other switches come off same as seat switch. Difficult to get at. All the switches are making mechanical contact when proper lever is adjusted. Will have to try to see if I can take one of the other switches off.

Thanks,

Vic

[jinman]

Vic,

Here is the photo. The yellow arrow points to the oil pressure switch and the red arrow to the engine temperature probe. Your TC35D will look slightly different. If you hook a jumper from the oil pressure switch to ground with the key on, the light should light on the dash.

When you try to start, are you hearing a click or anything else as you move the key to the start position? My starter sometimes does not make good contact in the solenoid. I tap on the starter with a crescent wrench, and it seems to start fine. I think my solenoid is slowly dying and that may be your problem too if you hear a click when you turn the key to start.

The only lever that has no indicator is the transmission range lever. If it is in high or low range, the starter will not operate and there is no light indication. Did you wiggle the range selector to make sure it is in the neutral detent?

Your operator's manual has electrical diagrams in the back if you get to in-depth electrical troubleshooting.

I hope you get your little dynamo going soon.

[jinman]

Oops! Forgot the photo and for some reason I cannot edit my last post.

[kozak]

Yo Jim,

Many thanks for the photo. What-da-ya-know-about-that I was looking at the right location for that press switch. Exactly as you described. There is no discernable click what so ever......nada. I have moved the range selector including the other levers back & forth many times as I was trying to check the action of the safety switches. Noticed that about the range lever that there is no switch when I was expecting one.

Thanks Again Jim,

Vic

[Soundguy]

Are yuo sure the lamp in the dash is good? You can try bypassing the switch to check.. etc.

soundguy

[jinman]

Originally Posted by kozak

I have moved the range selector including the other levers back & forth many times as I was trying to check the action of the safety switches. Noticed that about the range lever that there is no switch when I was expecting one.

Vic, the neutral sensing switch is on the left side of the transmission case under the operator's platform. There are two wires going to it. It's about 1" (2.5cm) in diameter. If you disconnect the wires you can test for continuity when the range lever is in neutral. Or if you are sure the range lever is in neutral, you
can just jumper between the two contacts and try the starter. That will eliminate that as the cause and you can continue looking.

I looked at my schematic this morning for the oil pressure switch. It is just a simple switch that provides a ground to the light circuit. If fuse #4 is not blown, I don't see how this switch could cause any starting problems. Fuse #4 is the instrument panel fuse and having other lights on there tells me that fuse #4 is still good.

I think I would check the ignition switch next and make sure it is working properly. You should be able to see 12VDC going to the starter solenoid when that switch is turned to Start. If not, then I think you need to remove the cowling and check the ignition switch.