First 2hrs TC40DA - Help!

[lhfarm]

Had a chance to try out the tractor using my box and straight blades on the drive. I need the manual. I don't think I have the right combination of range and engine speed. The drive is very steep and on my second run up the hill, I bogged the tractor. Stopped and changed ranges, engaged 4wd and increased the engine speed. No problem.

I drove down a hill to dump some limbs and when I went to back up the hill, nothing moved. No wheel spin, just the sound of the tractor lugging. This concerned me, since there wasn't any extra load on the tractor. Again, stopped, did 4wd and low range and I was able to back out.

Idling along, headed out to change blades. Going up a small incline, I stalled the engine.

Since I don't have the manual, what is the recommend rpm for normal operation? Is it like my ZTR, where you run the engine at high speed and control ground speed with the hydro?

Hydrostat is very different from a geared tractor, at least for me. I love everything else, but I'm concerned I've not gotten enough tractor or more likely, just don't know how to use it.

Help! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

[PineRidge]

Barry I had the exact same feeling the day I took delivery of the TC-40D only because we didn't know how the hydro was supposed to work either. There were spots on the lot where the tractor just refused to go.

You need to remember that more power is developed with less foot pressure.

More speed is developed with more foot pressure.

Once you get that concept down you'll spin the wheels before you stall the engine.

Don't use your hydro with low engine RPM's as the engine powers the hydro pump.

Low RPM's = low output
High RPM's = high output

No way would we ever go back to a gear tractor now, no way, no-sir-reee, nope, no, no, no.......... [img]/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[jwstewar]

A couple of things to remember, high range is just that high range. It is like trying to take off in your truck in 4 or 5 gear - not gonna work. Second thing to remember is, if you need more power don't mash the hydro pedal. The farther you push the hydro pedal you go faster but have less power. It isn't like an accelerator pedal in the car. You have the most power when you just barely start pushing the pedal. I believe it is something 1/8 of travel or something. Next time try pushing on the pedal lighter. I think you'll find the hydro is real easy to operate, just takes a little getting used to. I still catch myself every now and then trying to smash the pedal. Good luck.

[MikePA]

My TC25D has 3 ranges and the only time I use III is when driving between 2 locations, e.g., driving between the house and the barn on our paved road. Even driving up our back yard, which is somewhat steep is too steep to do in III. All work is done in I and II.

As others have said, if the engine begins to bog or you just sit and do not go anywhere, lift up on the hydro pedal. If that doesn't help, you're in too high a gear.

Don't worry, you'll get used to this with more practice. There's nothing wrong that wont be cured with a little more experience. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[Bob_Skurka]

Keep the RPMs up, the foot pedal controls ground speed, but it needs to get its power from the hydro pump, the hydro pump gets its power from the engine, as Mike pointed out, more RPMs is more power, but more RPMs also gives you flexibility in how and under what circumstances you have access to the power. Run the engine faster than you've been doing, it is designed to run at higher RPMs all day long. Then with the engine RPMs up, you control the power and the speed with the foot pedal.

As Jim pointed out, the HST is not an automotive accelorator pedal, it is more like a gear shift pedal. Push down hard and you are in a higher gear. Just barely push down and you are in a lower gear with more torque going to the wheels. Combine that control with low engine RPMs and you will figure out fast that you can't get anywhere, but raise the RPMs and the combination gives you power and speed at your disposal.

[lhfarm]

Thanks everyone, I feel better already. There is so much to love about this tractor, I figured I was the problem. Don't know if I'll be able to do get back on the tractor today. Unless I can figure out that I need to do something for my mom, wife or daughter-in-law today. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] But I'll put all this advice to work the next time I get back in the seat.

Just wished I'd sent my note last evening.

[DocHeb]

Other that putt-putting at 1500 RPM across my flat back yard, I operate my TC40D at 2000 RPM or higher. There is actually a big difference between 2000 RPM and 2600 RPM in regards to torque to the wheels and FEL lifting capacity.

Don't forget the Rabbit/Turtle switch. It can change a slow crawl to a more tolerable speed.

[have_blue]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Other that putt-putting at 1500 RPM across my flat back yard, I operate my TC40D at 2000 RPM or higher. There is actually a big difference between 2000 RPM and 2600 RPM in regards to torque to the wheels and FEL lifting capacity.

Don't forget the Rabbit/Turtle switch. It can change a slow crawl to a more tolerable speed.
)</font>

One thing I envy about the HST tractors is the ability to use higher engine RPM. In my gear tractor, there's no way I can set my throttle to 2000 RPM for FEL work. My seat belt would try to cut me in half. Best I can do is about 1700 RPM in 8th gear, and even then it snaps my head around pretty good. Dropping to a lower gear is even worse, a higher gear causes lugging.