tc24da removing 60" mmm rd

[PatC]

Almost didn't buy mmm because everyone advised how hard to remove and put back on. 27 hours (real newbie and not mechanical) and decided needed to try before heavy tilling and clearing for new area for wife to plant. Might be a real pain putting back on but it was very easy taking off. Easy roll out to left with simple turn of front wheels after removing 4 pins and slipping the pto off. Even dealer said it would be tough and have to drive over to get it out or lift the front wheels off the ground with hoist. Makes me feel a whole lot better about my decision.
2 questions Directions said there was suppose to be a (strip) pin inserted in mm driveline and there was not a pin or a hole for it. Do I need a strip pin for mmm?

Why is there not a way to lock the rear pto up when you have something on back and you want to mow without removing the implement like there is on the mmm where you lock it before using rear implement.

Tractor was early 50th birthday and 30th anniversary wrapped in one. If I had known it would be this much fun and the tiller and fel would have made it this easy to work in flower beds etc, I would have gotten married 5 years sooner.

[Bob_Skurka]

RE: The strip pin. I don't know what that is or if I have one either!

RE: 3pt quesitons. The rear 3pt lower links are what power the raising and lowering of the MMM deck. You can "pin" the deck in the UP position. When you go to the back of the tractor and look at the lower link arms, you will see that MMM's assembly is actually attached to the lower link arms. That attachment point controls the raising and lowering of the MMM via a couple arms that run under the tractor but over the MMM. If the 3pt hitch were "pinned" in the up position your mower deck would have no way of being lowered because both the MMM and the rear implement use the same lower arms to go up and down.

[jwstewar]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Even dealer said it would be tough and have to drive over to get it out or lift the front wheels off the ground with hoist. )</font>

I think I would be questioning that dealer and his knowledge of the equipment. The 914A is NOT desgined to be run over like some of the other mowers. I would hate to see what the guards and the pulleys and everything looked like after the front of my tractor went over them. I usually lift the front a little bit with the FEL, but I've also done like you said just by turning the wheels. Now hooking the PTO backup can be a little bit of a challenge sometimes as it doesn't always cooperate. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

Might as well tell you know, you might as well order some of the Bowtie hair pins from McMaster-Carr or you will always be losing the pins that hold the deck on the front. While only $3 or $4 they do start to add up - especially in the frustration department. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[thcri]

Yeah I wouldn't be driving over mine. But I do put blocks out in front for my FEL to set on and then lift my front wheels and then I roll my mower between the front wheels and the loader. This way I don't have to slide out to the side. I have a 72" which is a lot heavier and is tougher to slide out the side. But by putting a block on both sides of the loader my reach is enough for room between the front wheels and loader so my 914 can sit in between.

If your went off easy remember the position you left your gauge wheels in. The is crucial for putting back on and when you take it off again. Mine works best at the 4" setting. The arms seem to match up best at that point. Also if your back wheels are 1/2" higher it helps me out a lot.

murph