Eliminated The Battery Problem?

[MikePA]

It was time to do a little PM on my TC25D, i.e., replace the 90 degree hydraulic cooler hoses. Since a little fluid escapes, I thought I'd use the opportunity to remove the battery and make sure all was well underneath it. There was a little 'cheese' on the positive terminal and the hold down bar had started to rust again. I removed the bar, sanded, primed and repainted it.

Then I thought, why not replace the battery. The OEM battery was replaced almost 3 years ago with a TSC battery and I had to put it on the charger this spring. Perhaps a little early but better safe than sorry.

This time I thought I'd try and solve the gassing and corrosion problems by going with an Odyssey PC925L Dry Cell ($109.95) Click Here. This model was the biggest battery that would fit in the space available. All I had to buy extra was a SAE Terminal Kit ($12.95). See attached. So, if you have a Class II Boomer (TC25, TC29 or TC33), another battery option.

 

[jinman]

Very nice, Mike. I still have my OEM battery and wonder just how long I can make the "beast" last. What is the material you have underneath your battery in the photo?

 

[have_blue]

Mike,

Nice solution!

I taped a plastic sheet on the top of my spitting factory battery, with just the posts sticking out. Everything is staying clean so far.

When it starts going bad, I think I'll get a small, cheap SLA battery. Since I live in the deep south, I have a much better situation than you. Since tractors beat batteries to death and they fail mainly from vibration, I'll get a cheap one. No use paying 3x the price to get 25% more longevity. Since my tractor always starts with a quick bump of the key, <knocking wood here!>, I think I can get away with a real small battery. I bet a 25-30Ah battery would work great. I'll be glad to get rid of that chunk of ballast that NH calls a battery! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> What is the material you have underneath your battery in the photo? </font>
It's a Battery Mat ------> Click Here. I had it under the TSC battery and kept it there for the dry cell because it provides cushioning from vibration as well.

 

[Blues001]

The week after I bought my tractor I changed my battery. I saw pictures on here of batteries that leaked and made a mess. The OEM battery on my TC33DA was a leaking corrosive mess when new. I bought the YELLOW top optima battery from battery plus. It’s a deep cycle battery made for tractors, farm, and construction equipment.

 

[adlertom]

Thought I'd share my experience on the battery issue.

I just got my TC33DA back from its 50 hour service at the dealer. Thanks to this forum, I knew about the battery problem and the right angle coolant hose problem, so I mentioned them to the service manager.

I'm happy to report that my dealer (Hanley Implement) took care of me well. They replaced the OEM battery with an Optima yellow top battery, and replaced the right angle hoses with an improved setup of metal lines and straight hoses. All this was done under warranty, plus they delivered the tractor after completing the services (33 mile one way trip) for no charge.

I guess I'm fortunate to have a good dealer who has demonstrated a willingness to take care of problems.

Tom

 

[MikeBurr]

Was the hose replacement something they came up with or a new fix from NH? Never could understand why they used the curved soft hoses in the first place.

 

[adlertom]

I believe it was a fix from New Holland.

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> Never could understand why they used the curved soft hoses in the first place. </font>
Just a guess...Since;

1. Each of the lines had to have elbows in them somewhere.
2. The lines are subject to some small movement (probably) and vibration (certainly)
3. The elbows would be the weakest area and making them flexible would be better, i.e., much better to replace a hose than a hard line.

Again, just my guess.

 

[PineRidge]

Just a guess but with the majority of manufacturers it usually boils down to price, pennies per unit. Hard elbows and clamps cost more than molded flexible elbows even though they may not last as long.