SacandagaBrad
Platinum Member
Just did my 300 hr service and got thinking about some of the little tricks I have picked up along the way that I thought I would throw out there for anyone new to a Class I Boomer or thinking of getting a small CUT. Some of these I came up with during the 300 hr service (wasn't difficult at all), some are probably buried deep in the manual, some I picked up here at TBN, and some are just little back savers I have come up with. I'm sure others will chime in with their own tricks, if it saves some frustration or a few pinched fingers, then it was worth the typing.
Always take off the FEL on level ground and don't leave it out in the sun if you ever plan to put it back on during daylight hours. Those black hoses heat up and build up pressure to the point you will have to relieve it before reconnecting the hoses.
When removing and installing the 914A MMM, I have found having the rear gauge wheels set one setting higher makes it much easer to make the connections. Once installed, I set it to the corresponding setting. With the cushion lift system set up correctly to pitch the deck slightly forward, it makes it very tough for me to line up the pins with the deck on a level floor. A little expermentation might make things easier.
Make sure the left hand lift rod on the 3PH is pinned through the highest hole before mounting the MMM.
When draining the transmission, rear axle, and front axle, I removed the wheels for easier access. Also made changing the hydro filters a lot easier. My rears are loaded, still worth the effort. Block it up safely.
Rather than fight with the close, almost impossible angle of removing the retaining nut on the fuel filter, I removed the whole assembly by taking out the single bolt that holds it to the frame of the tractor, then rotated the filter assembly in my hand to get the channel locks on easily. Bolt takes a 12 mm socket. I guess it is only a royal pain if you have the FEL.
When you pick up your hydro fluid for the 300, the five gallon does it. But pick up a quart bottle as well that you can put a small hand pump on for filling the front final reduction gear cases. I used the one for my boat lower units, worked like a charm.
I considered not bothering with the front axle oil change at the 300 hr. Glad I kept moving, turned out that oil was the dirtiest of all the fluids, except of course for the motor oil.
Always use FWD with the FEL, not only gives you more power traction, but also front breaking power.
A 7' ROPS doesn't clear a 6 1/2' door.
Turfs work great in the snow as long as you have chains.
And I have yet to figure a better way to work the 3PH sway bars, what a PITA.
Take it for what its worth, just some things I have found to make life easier in the first 300 hrs of owning my tractor.
Brad
Always take off the FEL on level ground and don't leave it out in the sun if you ever plan to put it back on during daylight hours. Those black hoses heat up and build up pressure to the point you will have to relieve it before reconnecting the hoses.
When removing and installing the 914A MMM, I have found having the rear gauge wheels set one setting higher makes it much easer to make the connections. Once installed, I set it to the corresponding setting. With the cushion lift system set up correctly to pitch the deck slightly forward, it makes it very tough for me to line up the pins with the deck on a level floor. A little expermentation might make things easier.
Make sure the left hand lift rod on the 3PH is pinned through the highest hole before mounting the MMM.
When draining the transmission, rear axle, and front axle, I removed the wheels for easier access. Also made changing the hydro filters a lot easier. My rears are loaded, still worth the effort. Block it up safely.
Rather than fight with the close, almost impossible angle of removing the retaining nut on the fuel filter, I removed the whole assembly by taking out the single bolt that holds it to the frame of the tractor, then rotated the filter assembly in my hand to get the channel locks on easily. Bolt takes a 12 mm socket. I guess it is only a royal pain if you have the FEL.
When you pick up your hydro fluid for the 300, the five gallon does it. But pick up a quart bottle as well that you can put a small hand pump on for filling the front final reduction gear cases. I used the one for my boat lower units, worked like a charm.
I considered not bothering with the front axle oil change at the 300 hr. Glad I kept moving, turned out that oil was the dirtiest of all the fluids, except of course for the motor oil.
Always use FWD with the FEL, not only gives you more power traction, but also front breaking power.
A 7' ROPS doesn't clear a 6 1/2' door.
Turfs work great in the snow as long as you have chains.
And I have yet to figure a better way to work the 3PH sway bars, what a PITA.
Take it for what its worth, just some things I have found to make life easier in the first 300 hrs of owning my tractor.
Brad
