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#41 (permalink) | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Clarksville, TN, USA
Posts: 2,021
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Quote:
This link should work, NAPAONLINE® The top 3 are what they carry. Now I have to go make sure you get the right ones for the Fleetguard, those are the Wix ones, and I believe them to be right, but I think we are using some Mil-spec'd ones at this point. Here may be some interesting reading. Antifreeze Recycling |
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#42 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Rural Birmingham, AL
Posts: 300
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I did my coolant change this past weekend. I bought my tractor used with no service history so I will do all the PM's as a basis.
The old coolant was green but barely. On draining, there was no rust color at all. I re-filled with a coolant cleaner and I followed the instructions except I rinsed twice after draining the coolant cleaner. I topped it up with new coolant and went to cut grass for about 45 minutes, making sure that all air pockets were gone. I had to add coolant after the engine cooled down. I used the NAPA store to buy Valvoline Zerex Pre-charged. NAPAONLINE® Well, that's out of the way. Next comes the transmission oil change. Thanks to all on this great forum for putting up with my questions. I've learned a lot by being with TBN.
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Dana in Alabama |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,775
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Diesel Engine Coolant
The engine cooling system is filled to provide year-round protection against corrosion and cylinder liner pitting, and winter freeze protection to -37ーC (-34ーF). If protection at lower temperatures is required, consult your John Deere dealer for recommendations. John Deere COOL-GARD Prediluted Coolant is preferred for service. John Deere COOL-GARD Prediluted Coolant is available in a concentration of either 50% ethylene glycol or 55% propylene glycol. Additional recommended coolants The following engine coolant is also recommended: キ John Deere COOL-GARD Coolant Concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water. John Deere COOL-GARD coolants do not require use of supplemental coolant additives, except for periodic replenishment of additives during the drain interval. Other fully formulated coolants Other fully formulated low silicate ethylene or propylene glycol base coolants for heavy-duty engines may be used if they meet one of the following specifications: キ ASTM D6210 prediluted (50%) coolant キ ASTM D6210 coolant concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water Coolants meeting ASTM D6210 do not require use of supplemental coolant additives, except for periodic replenishment of additives during the drain interval. Coolants requiring supplemental coolant additives Other low silicate ethylene glycol base coolants for heavy-duty engines may also be used if they meet one of the following specifications: キ ASTM D4985 ethylene glycol base prediluted (50%) coolant キ ASTM D4985 ethylene glycol base coolant concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water Coolants meeting ASTM D4985 require an initial charge of supplemental coolant additives, formulated for protection of heavy duty diesel engines against corrosion and cylinder liner erosion and pitting. They also require periodic replenishment of additives during the drain interval. Other coolants It is possible that neither John Deere COOL-GARD nor coolants meeting one of the coolant standards listed above is available in the geographical area where service is performed. If these coolants are unavailable, use a coolant concentrate or prediluted coolant with a quality additive package that provides cylinder liner cavitation protection and protects the cooling system metals (cast iron, aluminum alloys, and copper alloys such as brass) from corrosion. The additive package must be part of one of the following coolant mixtures: キ ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base prediluted (40% to 60%) coolant キ ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base coolant concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water Water quality Water quality is important to the performance of the cooling system. Distilled, deionized, or demineralized water is recommended for mixing with ethylene glycol and propylene glycol base engine coolant concentrate. IMPORTANT: Do not use cooling system sealing additives or antifreeze that contains sealing additives. IMPORTANT: Do not mix ethylene glycol and propylene glycol base coolants.
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Paul in VT I used to own an ant farm but had to give it up. I couldn't find tractors small enough to fit it. -- Steven Wright |
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#44 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Okla City, Oklahoma
Posts: 267
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Excellent post and links guys. This post reminded me that all of this talk about antifreeze IS NOT nonsense..... It's the truth, I know, I lost an engine in one of my IH trucks with approx 150,000 miles on it about 2 yrs ago due to cavitation!!!! I couldn't believe the dealer when they gave me this story about "your engine problem is an antifreeze issue"!!!!! Well it was and I pay attention now. This post also reminded me that I don't have the same manager/drivers that I had then and I need to educate them on this and get back to my coolant maintenance that they aren't aware of. Hope I haven't forgotten about this too long again!!!!! ggggrrrrrr!!
As you guys have mentioned, it's complicated and therefore during my research (which was mostly provided by you gentlemen's great links) I took notes and summarized all of this for my future reference and to see it all in one place. If this Word file would help any of you just PM me and I'll email the file to you. Keep in mind it's just my notes and I could have made a mistake or interpreted something wrong but you're welcome to it. In my research i concluded that there are several coolants that would be a good choice to use. I had actually decided to go with TSC "FleetCharge" @ 10.99/gal but when I got there they only had 1 gal in stock and all the stores in their district only had a few. I needed 20 gallons or more to do all the trucks at least. That was frustrating so I continued my search for other suppliers and decided to go with Shell Rotella ELC. It is compatible with FleetCharge but I wanted all the same in all of the trucks. I found the test strips at the IH dealer and a bottle of DCA to stock in case I needed to bring up the nitrate level when checking the systems later. Basically I found you should look for ELC (extended life coolant) for heavy duty diesel engine use. All that I found had a ASTM rating of ASTM D-6210 and RP-329 on the jug. These should say they are "pre-charged" with the proper initial SCA. Everything I found stressed that you shouldn't assume the proper nitrate levels are good just because it's relatively new or it's a Extended Life Coolant. It is imperative to DO THE STRIP TESTS routinely for proper nitrate levels. It can be too low and too high as well.
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NH TC55DA, EHSS, 4wd, 18LA FEL, Woods BH-90X BH, Toothbar, Forks, 3 Rear Remotes, Hyd Top Bar, 5' Rhino brush hog, Grapple, 6' Tiller. |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Okla City, Oklahoma
Posts: 267
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P. S. I also learned a very important thing.........don't use a water hose (tap water) to top off a radiator.....IT'S FULL OF CONTAMINANTS and will defeat your purpose. You should use a 50-50 blend of coolant OR use distilled water to top it off. What the heck is this world coming to???? I feel like a dummy anymore questioning some of these things I would've thought were gimmicks. I probably would still have been questioning it if it had not have cost me a $12,000 engine! That'll make a believer outta ya.
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NH TC55DA, EHSS, 4wd, 18LA FEL, Woods BH-90X BH, Toothbar, Forks, 3 Rear Remotes, Hyd Top Bar, 5' Rhino brush hog, Grapple, 6' Tiller. |
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#46 (permalink) |
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Super Star Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Central florida
Posts: 18,614
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No doubt distilled water is way better for the cooling system, .. deminerilization really helps.
Contrast this to back inthe 30's and 40's when they told you to top off the radiator with 'clear' pond water every day! soundguy |
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#47 (permalink) |
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Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
Posts: 5,568
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Ha, the Chinese tractor books still say to use clean "river water".
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Rob- ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be... |
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#48 (permalink) | |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: east wells,vt
Posts: 3,505
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Quote:
No wonder those Chinese tractors have issues ! ![]() ![]() ![]()
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scotty ,,,course,,it is gas,and gas is,,well,gas,,so,,but it kills the @#$$ oughta them yellow jackets,,,thingy |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Super Star Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Central florida
Posts: 18,614
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I've got some vintage american iron owners manuals that say the clean pond water.. or some such similar.. IE.. rain barrel water..e tc.
the oil and water these old machines ran on would likely cripple a new vehicle.. ![]() soundguy |
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#50 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 37
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On the issue regarding water!
I have been saving water from my de-humidifier in plastic jugs for the last few years and have used this water for all of my car needs. I use it in the radiators, car/truck batteries, and also the windshield washer bottle. I'm sure its not really what some would call DISTILLED water, but it has worked for me for quite a few years and I don't get any of the mineralization issues that come from tap water. I'm certainly no chemist, but in my mind if I'm paying for the electric to take the dampness out of the air in my basement why not use the result. How many minerals or other contaminates could there be in the air of my basement?????? Frank |
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