I am simply baffled

[Soundguy]

I will desent a little bit... just because it's a wally world oil don't make it rhino pee.

Last I checked.. warren makes lots of wally world oil.

Past that... many of us with lots of equipment or larger equipment could be running into many times the cost when considering a generic utf vs a name brand. For instance.. around here I hav ethe choice of 60$ NH ambra gold 134G.. or 35$+ tsc utf.. or 25$ supertech UTF. Considering I have tractors that take 13G each of the stuff, plus a few others that take over 8g each.. when you add all that up.. I could buy an extra antique tractor every couple years with the money I save on buying the oil that is 1/3rd the price... not to mention I can actually change the oil at 2x better intervals than in the manual, and still be ahead of the $$ game by 1/3..e tc.

My biggest, most expensive diesel.. my NH 7610s.. it's had supertech in it since I got it. I had it in at the dealer to repalce a hyd valve that had a factor defect ( not a lube related failure ).. and while they had it.. I had them check the hyd system out. I believe the exact words from the service managers mouth was that he had not seen a machine that had a cleaner / better looking hyd system, based on the hours..e tc.. relief and other valves were working perfectly as well as the pump, power steering.. wet brakes.. etc.

not everything is a cheaper = junk issue.

Sure.. a 5$ prybar from harbor freight vs a 25$ prybar from sears is probably gonna yeild a bent chinese prybar long before the craftsman.

I'd even give you that if you did an oil anylisis that the supertech oil may not 'last' as long as a more spendy brand.. but.. if the price offset is such that you can change it 2x to 3x more often for less or the same money.. that sounds like the ticket... the more you change it.. the more contaminates and water you get out of the system, and if you look at averages... if brand A oil lasts 200 hrs inthe hyds before needing changed.. but costs 3x of what brand B costs.. and brand B needs to be changed at 100 hrs.. then if you change out brand B twice.. you are ahead in the $$ department, and looking at average oil life.. the brand B gives you longer average time of being 'new' setting int he tractor sump.. IE.. at 100 hrs into the work, the brand a oil is half old.. the brand b oil is brand new...

soundguy

Originally Posted by Wayne County Hose

Okay, you last 3 posters, you are still using good quality oil to begin. Kendall and Mobil are high quality lubes. I'm talking about the people that do hours of research, go to 4 different brand/dealers, kick tires for months, finally spend 30 grand plus on a machine, then put the cheapest Wally World oil they can find on their discount rack. They buy the 50 cent tube of grease, the no name gear oil. I'm not saying you have to buy your fluids from the dealer or use synthetics. But put all that effort into choosing a machine, spend all that money on it, and say friggit with the lubricants?

I know there are those out there that may say,
"My tractor has 10,xxx hours on it and all I ever used was oil from the flea market." I just don't understand the reasoning. I also know that many like to keep their equipment/vehicles all original, but changing the fluids doesn't mean it's not "original" anymore.

[orangebluegreen]

Originally Posted by john_bud

Wayne,

I used to work next to a Valvoline distributor / bottler. Couple times a week a semi would dump who knows how many thousands of gallons of oil off. Then several times a day, a couple small trucks would load pallets of quarts of motor oil and take them to the retailers. The exact same content in the containers would be in the store brands as in the ones marked "Valvoline". I asked, all they did was label, fill and ship.

Sorry this is off topic but interesting none the less. Late 90's I was working on my friends ARCA car at Daytona, the engine was built by a major NASCAR builder and their Cup team was sponsored by major oil brand. It was common to run thinner RedLine oil in the trans and rearend for qualifying then switch back to gear oil for the race. He told us to come over to the trailer and he would give us the RedLine. I went over and asked for the oil, he handed over a 5 gallon bucket with the "brand name" of the sponsor on it. I questioned didn't you want us to use the Redline for qualifying, his reply was that's what's in the can :-)

[lunbrjck]

Did some research on oil sometime ago and the store brands from Wal-Mart and so on met or exceeded all specs. The store brands also were better than alot of the name brand oils. If you are buying in bulk like Wal-Mart does you can sell the oil cheaper but you have the same oil in the can as the name brand oils. The stores don't manufacture their oil one of the major oil companies do. I don't get my oil from Wal-Mart, not because it is inferior oil but just because of who is selling it. I hate Wal-Mart.

[RollTideRam]

Over the last year, Turbo Diesel Register has been doing some oil testing. Turns out the SuperTech from Wally world ain't as bad as you would think. It's even better than some of the big names. JC

[California]

re changing the filter with every oil change:

I read somewhere this is specified because a filter traps finer particles after it begins to load up.

I've never done the skipped filter intervals myself, but I thought this was interesting.

[frank_miller]

Originally Posted by RollTideRam

Over the last year, Turbo Diesel Register has been doing some oil testing. Turns out the SuperTech from Wally world ain't as bad as you would think. It's even better than some of the big names. JC

I ran it in 2 of my cars and it was just about dead in 5K miles (based on TBN level). If I liked changing oil all the time, I would use it. I still that oil bigtime.

[frank_miller]

Originally Posted by California

re changing the filter with every oil change:

I read somewhere this is specified because a filter traps finer particles after it begins to load up.

I've never done the skipped filter intervals myself, but I thought this was interesting.

One oil testing house I use says to change them every other change and only use use Amsoil, Mobil or K&N

[SPYDERLK]

Originally Posted by David_G

Good quality oil and filters are cheap compared to engine rebuilds.

Yup. But cheap oil does not equate to not good enuf and therefore, does not equate to engine rebuilds.
larry

[ihookem]

Mobil isn't selling Walmart bad oil. If they did and engines started needing rebuilds Mobil would have a class action suit on their hands in a hurry. Mobil might tell them if they want our oil that cheap come and pick it up yourself, and they probably do. I can imagine how much Mobil 1 Walmart sells.

[ihookem]

What baffles me is how much people spend on cars, tractors, and trucks, then trade them in after 500 hrs on a tractor or a truck that cost 40k with 50 k mi. on the diesel engine and get half back on it when they trade in their emaculately taken care of machine 3 years later.