synthetic oil filter

   / synthetic oil filter #11  
in some thinks a Wix is as good as a Amsoil EaO someone is smoking $$%^..

There is a huge diff and a simple test is get a good baseline on (1) filter and then switch. Simple and no BS

Sorry, I didn't catch that.
Apparently I'm smoking $$%^..
 
   / synthetic oil filter #12  
Not only filtering but also having the correct pressure drop to open the bypass valve. This is a very critical and why I buy the filter made by the equipment manufacturer rather than after market attempts at one shoe fits many.

jmf
 
   / synthetic oil filter #13  
As usual well said Gary (fieldserviceengineer). I couldn't agree more on the over selling of some of the synthetic media filters on the market. Bypass filtration is far more effective in the overall life of a piece of equipment. I also agree that the "high flow" filters on the market do more damage than good. They may be fine if your using it in a race engine and need maximum air flow and plan on tearing your engine down after every couple of runs but in the real world they do nothing more than allow in more contamination. I can often tell if a customer is using a gauze type filter simply by looking at their UOA results. They alway's have a increase in silicon when compared to engines using standard filters.
 
   / synthetic oil filter #14  
I was switching everything to the same synthetic oil a couple years back, and when I asked the quad mechanic at the local dealer a couple questions. He said that it was a good idea but the quad uses engine oil to lube the tranny, and some oils are to slick. the slick oils don't allow some of the clutches to work right ( not enough friction?)

I always wonder if he was pulling my leg.
 
   / synthetic oil filter #15  
The slip in motorcycle/ATV clutches used to be true, sometime in the last century:rolleyes:

Not a problem nowadays in properly designed equipment, built since about the 80's.
 
   / synthetic oil filter #16  
That's why synthetic oils with highway additives/packages are not recommended for clutches.

jmf

I was switching everything to the same synthetic oil a couple years back, and when I asked the quad mechanic at the local dealer a couple questions. He said that it was a good idea but the quad uses engine oil to lube the tranny, and some oils are to slick. the slick oils don't allow some of the clutches to work right ( not enough friction?)

I always wonder if he was pulling my leg.
 
   / synthetic oil filter #17  
There are several synthetics labeled........ for use with wet clutches
 
   / synthetic oil filter #18  
There are several synthetics labeled........ for use with wet clutches

The one I like is 0-40w 4-Stroke by Amsoil. No highway additives.

jmf
 
   / synthetic oil filter
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Thank's for all the information, I already use omni air filters in the Rhino and Kodiak and I do know about the additives that harm clutches. What it looks like is Wix filters and probably will change oil and filter again after 20 hrs the first time, then back to old scheduel of at the end of hunting season, November 11
Bill
 
   / synthetic oil filter #20  
fieldserviceengineer

You seem to know pretty much what you are talking about, but don't you think that a filter that will filter smaller particles of say 10 microns over the 25 micron filter would be a better option.

I also agree with you about a bypass filter. My Dixie Chopper with 25 HP Kohler engine came with a 1 micron bypass filter. Kind of expensive though. When they finally broke the engine down, they said it looked like a new engine on the inside, no sludge at all. I agree with the principle of bypass filtering , it is worth having. It also had a Donaldson turbo air filter.
No, actually, I do not see any advantage in engine lube filters that can filter smaller particles. If you have a working air cleaner system, there are no smaller particles to remove. Air cleaner elements have a pore size distribution ranging from 1 micron to an upper range of 15 micron. Engine lube filters made of cellulose generally range in pore size of 40 - 60 micron. Particles of that size circulating in your lube oil have no effect on engine rotating and sliding components. To have a number of particles that size to cause issues means there is no air cleaner working in the system. The result of that will be high cylinder and ring wear. Why would it matter to remove those generated wear particles when the damage has been done. Fix the air cleaner. Don't get a more efficient lube filter. The company I work for has microglass lube filters. They are an added cost with no benefit. Either stay with cellulose or go to filters that combine a full flow with a bypass. The only advantage a synthetic full flow filter has is that it allows higher filtered oil flow during cold startup. Cold can mean oil that is at 100F even. Otherwise, the bypass valve in the engine lube filter circuit opens to provide an alternate flow path for lube flow because the cool oil viscosity is too high to have sufficient flow and resulting oil pressure. Other than that, synthetic full flow media filters are a waste as you pay a lot more and get not much in return.
 
 
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