Biodiesel >b5 in Kubota L series?

[lsweinha]

I am on the verge of buying a Kubota L3240 and realized Kubota only 'approves' the use of B5 biodiesel. I was hoping to run B100 (except in winter of course) as New Holland and some other manufacturers approve of. Kubota says it will eat the rubber and plastic in that the fuel comes into contact with.

A friend of mine has a NH TC40D and it is approved by NH for only B5 as well (most larger NH are approved for B100). However, he's running B99 in it when warm and B20 in winter. No problems for 5 years except the fuel hose on his bulk tank slowly dissolving.

Anyone here running biodiesel in a newer Kubota? Is the B5 advisory just legal protection or is it really going to mess up the engine? What would be different about the Kubota engines on the compact tractors that would be the problem with higher concentrations of biodiesel?

I appreciate any advice I can get soon, as I need to make a decision quickly.

Thanks very much.
Lance

 

[Ductape]

I've run much higher than B5 in a late model Kubota with no adverse effects (yet, anyway). Dunno the exact percentage, but it was well over 50%. I run it in summer when I can get some from a particular source (one I trust).

 

[irvingj]

In their TDI diesels, VW recommends no more than B5 or the warranty will be voided.... The reasons, so they say:

1. An indirect-injection diesel has much less trouble with higher percentages, but not so with direct-injection, particularly the "PD" engine my VW has. I'm told the current common-rail (50-state) systems are also really picky. (However, I know many older "ALH" VW TDI engines are using B100, apparently without problems.)

2. Standards for biodiesel in the US are not "up to snuff" by European standards-- even regular diesel in this country is poorer quality than than in Europe. Since biodiesel quality (especially.... darn, I forgot what they called it-- too high a percentage of "free esters" or something like that) can't be guaranteed, they don't want anything higher than B5 used.

So they say.

 

[lsweinha]

Thanks guys. Your advice is similar to everything I've heard since I posted here. It sounds like it's not going to be a major problem.

The kubota dealer said the two problems he knows about - from dealer meetings - are that BD has more moisture and can cause internal rust (so keep it full) and the gelling issue (so don't run BD in the winter).

I'll start with a low blend and work my way up and see how it goes.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I live 3 miles from a commercial bio diesel plant so lots of guys use it around here. The big problem is with the rubber fuel lines. I have seen ones that guys take off after they fried a $1000 injector pump and they are soft and tacky inside while they look like new on the outside.

I have only ran b20 myself. I ran it in both my F-350's, my wife's F-250, my tractor, and some other equipment like a borrowed dozer with no issues but all was newer equipment. Now days its not economic to run bio. Regular diesel is cheaper by $.03 per gallon last time I checked.

Chris

 

[Ductape]

Thanks guys. Your advice is similar to everything I've heard since I posted here. It sounds like it's not going to be a major problem.

The kubota dealer said the two problems he knows about - from dealer meetings - are that BD has more moisture and can cause internal rust (so keep it full) and the gelling issue (so don't run BD in the winter).

I'll start with a low blend and work my way up and see how it goes.

If its dried properly, moisture really shouldn't be a problem. Gelling really can be an issue, bio can be a problem well above freezing. When you start running it, change your fuel filter more often. Bio has greater detergency, and will tend to clean out gunk in your fuel system you didn't even know was there. This is less of an issue after you've been running it awhile and the system gets cleaned out. Alot of the problems people have had running bio is the incompatibility with natural rubber seals. Most modern vehicles have synthetic seals, so this is much less of an issue today. You have the right idea........ start slow and work your percentage up. It sure makes diesel exhaust less offensive !

Edit: Chris beat me to it ...... explaining the problems with rubber seals.

 

[Hammy]

I'm running b95 (+/-) in my tractor and not a lick of a problem. However, mine is home brew so I know how good of a product it is.

 

[lewkohl]

I put 75 hours on my 2007 Kubota L39 using commercially made B99. No problems, no change in performance. I use a particulate/water block filter just in case, but after 55 gallons used, there doesn't appear to be any water in the filter.

 

[chrisreedtn]

Unless you are runnin astm D6751 fuel quality standard tests, which are REAL expensive you have no Idea how good it is. Home brewed can contain large amounts of the following= methyl esters (eats hoses, clogs filters) Free methanol (corrosion of aluminum and zinc, low flash point) Free water, (bacterial growth, corrosion), free clycerin, (lacquering, and corrosion of non-ferrous metals, filter plugging/injector coking) Mono-,di and tri glyceride (injector coking) solid impurities (lubrication problems) corrosive acids-formic and acetic (corrosion of all metal parts) polymerisation products (deposits, precipitation especially from fuel mixes. filter plugging.

Most engine manufactures have spent millions testing biodiesel usage. As stated above, They cannot say use all you want, do to lack of standardised testing and various other political rif raff. Most engine manufactures that tested quality b100orb99 showed a cleaner running engine than reg #2. If you are gonna make you own, I suggest you get real educated. Read all you can. Do it right, and even though astm testing is extremely expensive. you can buy smaller localized test kits for a fairly cheap. IMHO its money well spent. Unless your using it in an older tractor. (in that case purchase new B100 rated hoses or you can/will have problems) But in all honesty once you put in the work on it, and really know what your doing its a great way to go. FWIW i runn strait VEG in my truck, and did in an older tractor I sold. Thats the cheap way to go, and its actually safer than bio, since you havent introduced water and methanol, or changed the chemical structure. (you do have to get it warmed up first though)

do you research, hope this helps