Fuel Problem Ford 4630

[BQZ]

Can't get tractor to start,I can spray a little starting fluid in and it will start for a second but dies of course.
Here's what I've done so far,
Cleaned tank(filter in tank was totally clogged no fuel leaving tank ),cleaned water separator,changed filter,purged filter,purged pump.Still no start.
I'm getting fuel to the pump,but when I take the fuel line off that goes to one of the injectors and turn engine over it only trickles out at best,more like a very very slow drip.
Any ides???

 

[Jerry/MT]

Can't get tractor to start,I can spray a little starting fluid in and it will start for a second but dies of course.
Here's what I've done so far,
Cleaned tank(filter in tank was totally clogged no fuel leaving tank ),cleaned water separator,changed filter,purged filter,purged pump.Still no start.
I'm getting fuel to the pump,but when I take the fuel line off that goes to one of the injectors and turn engine over it only trickles out at best,more like a very very slow drip.
Any ides???

You'll need to bleed the fuel system at the filter(s) first. Open the tank valve and remove the bleeder screw at the top of the filter(s) til the filter is full of fuel and no air bubbles are visible coming out. Then tightn it down. Make sure that all your fuel line fittings are tight and cannot leak air in.If your injector pump has a bleeder, bleed it also.
Make sure your battery is fully charged. Then crack the fitting at one of the injectors enough so that it can leak fuel. Crank the engine til you have nothing but fuel coming out of the injector and then tighten it. Repeat for the other injectors. The engine will usually start as the last injector is bled.

 

[BQZ]

You'll need to bleed the fuel system at the filter(s) first. Open the tank valve and remove the bleeder screw at the top of the filter(s) til the filter is full of fuel and no air bubbles are visible coming out. Then tightn it down. Make sure that all your fuel line fittings are tight and cannot leak air in.If your injector pump has a bleeder, bleed it also.
Make sure your battery is fully charged. Then crack the fitting at one of the injectors enough so that it can leak fuel. Crank the engine til you have nothing but fuel coming out of the injector and then tighten it. Repeat for the other injectors. The engine will usually start as the last injector is bled.

Done all that but haven't bleed the injectors yet,kind of hard because I have to pull the battery out to get to the injectors.but I can make it happen,

Question though ?I have already bleed the filters and pump,it seems i could loosen a line going to the injector (by the pump)and it should put a good stream of fuel shouldn't?? or is it more of a vacum type system.
Sorry don't really know a great deal about disel, but can firgue it out with a little help.

 

[RickB]

Bleed the injector lines at the injector end. That's the best way to purge air from the entire line. Bleed more than one line and make sure you bleed #2 injector line, as that exits the top of the pump head. no sense bleeding air from the bottom of the pump. You can also bleed the pump itself. There is a 5/16" hex bleed screw at about 10:00 on the pump body. Take that out, crank the tractor over with the fuel shutoff 'OFF', when fule spurts out onto the front tire, the pump is bled.

 

[BQZ]

You can also bleed the pump itself.

Question though ?I have already bleed the filters and pump,it seems i could loosen a line going to the injector (by the pump)and it should put a good stream of fuel shouldn't??
or is it more of a vacum type system.

How can I test the pump??

 

[RickB]

Question though ?I have already bleed the filters and pump,it seems i could loosen a line going to the injector (by the pump)and it should put a good stream of fuel shouldn't??
or is it more of a vacum type system.

How can I test the pump??

You won't get "a good stream of fuel" from the injector lines. More like a couple cc's of fuel per compression stroke. It is not a "vacum" type system, whatever you mean by that. Injectors work by high pressure fuel opening a valve held closed by a spring. Air in the lines will compress and not allow the spring to unseat. Removing the injector lines at the pump end won't do a good job of purging air from the system.
There isn't a decent way to test the pump without a test stand, which is s specialized tool not available to the common man. The tractor either runs, or it doesn't; that's the test. You just need to be more diligent in bleeding the pump. Go through the entire procedure again, especially bleeding the pump itself, and bleeding the injector lines AT THE INJECTOR END. The battery is on a swing out tray. If you have a loader, use the starter (in small run intervals) to raise the loader, prop it for safety, and swing the battery out.

 

[BQZ]

Thanks Rick I'll get after it and re-post when I get a chance.

It is not a "vacuum" type system, whatever you mean by that

This would be something similar to how your lawn mower pulls in gas.

 

[Soundguy]

Some setups use a fuel pump.. some have a lift pump in the injector pump.. and this ain't a lawnmower engine.

soundguy

 

[oliver28472]

If you are sure you have good flow starting at the tank fill it up to help with fuel pressure. Start your bleeding there first then bleed at the next stop. The sequence should follow the flow. If you have a transfer pump make sure it is doing it's job. I've never had to open a line at an injector.

 

[BQZ]

I'm back guys.thought i had the pump purged but I guess not when I open the bleeder screw at the pump and turn engine over I get nothing! (at first there was a little squirt)now just an occasional bubble ,I have cranked and cranked and cranked but no fuel.I have bleed filters and lines all the way to the pump but can't get any fuel out of it.Any ideas?? as to what I can try next?