Post Hole Digging

   / Post Hole Digging #1  

HoofinTrails

New member
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
Messages
10
Location
Pennsylvania
Tractor
Ford 3000 gas
Hi everyone,
I plan on hooking up the post hole auger for the first time on this tractor, a 1974 Ford 3000 3cyl gas. It's hard work for a tractor and I haven't had this one very long so I was wondering what should I check before I work it that hard? For instance I am most concerned about hurting or burning out the PTO? I have heard "horror" stories.
 
   / Post Hole Digging #2  
Hi everyone,
I plan on hooking up the post hole auger for the first time on this tractor, a 1974 Ford 3000 3cyl gas. It's hard work for a tractor and I haven't had this one very long so I was wondering what should I check before I work it that hard? For instance I am most concerned about hurting or burning out the PTO? I have heard "horror" stories.


I'm not familiar with your exact tractor, but in general it all depends on the soil condition and the condition of the auger teeth. I have dug 100's and 100's of holes with a variety of tractors and different model augers. Don't run the PTO up too high. I never run it at full throttle OR 540 rpm. I run it at maybe 1/2 - 2/3's of the way to full operating throttle. Holes do not have to be dug with the auger blasting away at full speed.

I drill mine nice and slow, and always keep raising and lowering the auger to keep the hole clean ..... if you don't, you could screw yourself into the ground and you wont be able to pull it out. If this happens you have to dig it put enough to get a pipe wrench around the auger and un-thread it after the drive shaft is removed from the tractor (dont ask me how i learned this little tidbit)

Keep your foot next to the clutch ready to stop rotation when needed. Make sure tractor is in neutral also..you dont need to be moving while drill is in the ground. As you begin to dig, the drill may tend to lean one way or another. you can stop rotation and move forward or reverse as needed....but carefully. After a few holes you'll be an expert...its not too hard. Not too hard on the tractor either. Ive used post hole diggers on some real old farmalls in the olden days...never had an issue. these tractors crossed the mountains with the wagon trains.....or so they looked.
 
   / Post Hole Digging
  • Thread Starter
#3  
GrsTheGreat,
Thank you for all the good information (and the reassurance). I probably would have run the auger at full throttle and also gotten stuck in the ground. lol

Also glad you mentioned about the auger leaning, I was wondering if there is a way to prevent it. That happened last time, now I know it's not just this operator's error or my equipment.
Do I ever have to grease the PTO or check a fluid level for it somewhere?
 
   / Post Hole Digging #4  
GrsTheGreat,
Thank you for all the good information (and the reassurance). I probably would have run the auger at full throttle and also gotten stuck in the ground. lol

Also glad you mentioned about the auger leaning, I was wondering if there is a way to prevent it. That happened last time, now I know it's not just this operator's error or my equipment.
Do I ever have to grease the PTO or check a fluid level for it somewhere?

Lots of good videos on :YouTube - ‪Post Hole Digger‬‏
and from EverthingAttachments.com.
Yes you need to check your gearbox oil 80/90 and make sure its filled to correct level.
Don't want to come across as a donkeys rear end or a male know-it-all but make sure you know what your doing.
Lots of ways to get seriously injured with a PHD,even just attaching it to your 3pt.
Watch for loose clothing,keep others way clear, and play safe.

Boone
 
   / Post Hole Digging #5  
The geometry of most post hole diggers mounted on the TPH are such that if you start the hole with the auger plumb you will need to move the tractor forward a small amount as you dig deeper. With a live PTO you can do this while continuing to dig by using low gear and carefully clutching the tractor and use of the brakes. With hydrostatic transmission it is a breeze to creep ahead a slight amount while continuing to dig.

With some soil conditions, it sometimes helps to move the tractor back and forth a small amount when the auger refuses to dig into a hard clay soil. As a matter of safety, never try to put down force on the auger with your body weight or that from a helper.

I also agree that low to medium engine speed is the best for digging. Nothing will be gained by operating at 540 rpm.

As for maintenace, the lube in the gear box should be checked by removing the check plug on the gearbox. This will be located somewhat lower in the gearbox than he fill plug which is on top or close to the top. If no oil comes out of the check plug when the auger is vertical, you need to add lubricant to this level. I would check the gear box whenever the digger has not been used for some period of time and as recommended by the owners manual. In addition to the gear box you may have to grease the universal joints that are on the power takeoff drive shaft in accordance with the owners manual.
 
   / Post Hole Digging #6  
You have received a lot of good advice from the previous posters.

I just finished drilling over 100 holes in the woods here in Connecticut on very uneven slopes. The first lesson I learned was slow the auger down. To achieve 540 rpm at the pto my engine runs about 2600 rpm. I ran it between 1300 and 1500.

Hitting big rocks means starting over - no point grinding the crap out of the auger tip. I did plenty of moving & redrilling.

Even with slower speed I wrapped the auger around tree roots too often. The small ones would eventually rip through with some up force (you really can't generate a lot of that with the 3ph). The larger roots always turned into a project. I found the easiest way to extract myself was to gently rock back & forth a small distance while the auger was engaged and the 3pt was trying to lift it.

Oh yeah, I started buying shear bolts 50 at a time - rocky ground is unforgiving :mad:
 
   / Post Hole Digging
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I didn't get to dig holes last weekend so it has to be this weekend for sure. After reading all of your replies I feel like I am ready.

CTgoldwing you had rocks AND roots??! Gee whiz, lucky you. I will definitely have rocks so first I will be buying shear bolts in bulk. I won't be able to move the holes, it will be exacting work, it's the last little bit of a privacy fence I started digging by hand last year. Yep, definitely rocks down there.

Bullbreaker: you didn't come across as a know it all. I need all the help I can get. The videos were a good idea, I watched the one on everythingattachements.

Ordite: That auger has been sitting out there for a long time. I will check the box fluid. Thank you for mentioning that. That was an "oh now I remember" when you mentioned it.

Most of all, as everyone said I will take it slow, lower rpms. I figure I have 3 days to dig 3 holes - no rush. Eventually I'll be digging 100 but that's a whole other thread - maybe a whole other lifetime, we'll see. :confused2:
 
   / Post Hole Digging #8  
I have always been impressed by the shear power an auger has on a tractor PTO and how the thing can save so much labor. I truly am impressed also, with the idea of ever getting my clothes or limbs or anything else connected to me---wrapped up on a turning drill. It pays to be very catious, I know you will be.
 
   / Post Hole Digging
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Well, to make a long story short, I spent quite a few hours getting the post hole digger on the tractor. It has been out in the weather for a long time, there were bees in it and the 3 points were sunk in the dirt, etc. Here is my newest problem which admittedly I haven't put much thought into a solution yet because it got dark.
The post hole digger pto drive line(axle) is stuck. I need it to be longer but it has been out in the weather for a long time so it's just plain stuck. Won't shorten won't lengthen. But any simple ideas for someone that doesn't have a shop or all that many tools yet?
 
   / Post Hole Digging #10  
PB Blaster has worked well for me.. of course if the PTO shields are in place, it will be a chore. You might be able to disconnect the shield at the gearbox and slide it towards the loose end enough to get some PB blaster in there. there are several home brew penetrating mixes that work well also.

Perhaps you can submerge most of the PTO shaft in some kerosene/diesel and just let it soak...
 
 
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