Winterizing Motors

   / Winterizing Motors #11  
I also must respectfully disagree with Brokenot. A prime example is condensed dew on a vehicle or the front lawn. That volume of moisture appears over the space of a few hours... And unless it is below freezing, it happens just about every night... Granted, the vehicle skin has more surface area and access to more moist air, and yes it takes more time inside a fuel tank, but the moisture is available...

This "breathing" process also occurs in engine crankcases. It can be combatted by capping the engine crankcase vent with a dessicant plug, but a lot of case vents are not all that easy to access or plug. Another method of dealing with it is to run the engine regularly to drive off the moisture. Probably the biggest killer of box store generators, they get bought for that big storm, used once and put in the garage for years with no activity. Then the owner complains when he spools it up for the next big storm and it throws a rod or seizes about an hour into powering his home due to corroded main bearings... That is why lawnmowers with basically the same engines on them last longer, they at least get used 1/2 the year:)

Keep the tank full, use stabil and run it once every month or so to help drive off the moisture and re-splash the engine internals with oil...

Those are interesting thoughts. You got me thinking.
From my perspective it's the gen heads that fails not the engines.
Box store geneartors don't have rod bearings so you must mean crank end ball bearings? They normally run the aluminum rod on the crank direct. Normally small 4 stroke engines fail for lack of oil only. Strange that it;s common in your area for these to throw rods for moisture.
 
   / Winterizing Motors #12  
I use Stabil and fogging oil in my lawn tractor, push mower and weedeaters, have done this for years and they always go vroooom in the spring. :thumbsup:
 
   / Winterizing Motors #13  
I use Stabil and fogging oil in my lawn tractor, push mower and weedeaters, have done this for years and they always go vroooom in the spring. :thumbsup:
I did the same thing for years, but this year i had to rebuild my walk behind snow blower carb, One of my chainsaw carbs and i had to replace the mantis carb all together. Its the **** ethanol. This year i am using marine grade stabil and ethanol free fuel. NO MORE of this crap
 
   / Winterizing Motors #14  
I also must respectfully disagree with Brokenot. A prime example is condensed dew on a vehicle or the front lawn. That volume of moisture appears over the space of a few hours... And unless it is below freezing, it happens just about every night... Granted, the vehicle skin has more surface area and access to more moist air, and yes it takes more time inside a fuel tank, but the moisture is available...

Disagree away, that's (part of) what forums are for. I'm very familiar with condensed dew on the grass and such, but do an experiment if you'd like. Take a gas can, (or any other comparable container you have available), and set it outside exposed to the same conditions you mentioned you observed when all of the moisture condensed on the lawn. Leave it 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 full....however much you like. Let it sit for several days or weeks, and see how much moisture it "gains" from the atmosphere. Of course be "fair" during your test. The container should be capped but still vented...just like a fuel tank is. Your test should also be conducted with a fluid that you know isn't already moisture-laden, and it should be fluid that water will separate from, (and be visible apart from), your "test fluid" for the duration of your test. (Something like regular engine oil or mineral spirits fresh from a sealed container maybe...?)

It's important to note that I never said there was, (or could be), no moisture in a fuel tank....I see it every day at work. (I've been turning wrenches full-time since 1983.) What I said was, that moisture in fuel tanks due to condensation is overly exaggerated. The vast majority of the moisture you'll see in the fuel bowl on a carbureted small engine, or in the bottom of a fuel tank after it has sat in storage didn't condense and end up there, it was in the fuel all along and it separated while the equipment sat.

We have well over a hundred pieces of rental equipment that are "seasonal" in nature and spend entire months sitting. It gets cold here at night, and warms up significantly during the day. Like most places, we have dry periods and periods with high humidity. If there were significant fuel tank moisture gains due to condensation, we'd see it plain as day. Back when I lived on the farm we didn't see significant "condensation gains" either. Not in the bulk fuel tanks, or the seasonal equipment that spent months sitting idle.

The water ends up at the bottom of the tank while the equipment sits. If it's a gravity-fed small engine fuel bowl, then water ends up there. If it's a conventional fuel tank with a pick-up tube oriented near the bottom of the tank, well...there's a good possibility that some water will be sucked up and cause issues when the machinery is fired up for the season.

We see water, and the first thing we think of is condensation. And most of what we see isn't a product of condensation that occurred after we put the fuel in the tank and capped it.

Next time you see one of the lab coat-wearing sales pitch guys or gals pitching a product that battles condensation in your fuel tank, tell them to calculate how many times the fuel tank's air space volume needs to be not only changed out, but also needs to have every available drop of moisture wrung out of it as it's being changed out...in order to accumulate the amount of water they're displaying in their beaker. Even at some ridiculously high humidity level that would make their situation semi-plausible, they still won't be able to explain why/how the tank exchanged it's available air space volume the huuuuge number of times it would take to accumulate the amount of moisture they're claiming.

Their numbers will not add up.

;)
 
   / Winterizing Motors #15  
Fogging oil is good.
 
   / Winterizing Motors
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thanks for all the responses. I guess that brings up another question, the tractor I own is already ten years old but it is new to me and shows it on the paint. I cannot park it undercover this winter, no spot for it, anything I can do to keep it safe in the elements. I tried a tarp last winter but that didn't last one storm. And I dont think it lets enough air move around. I was thinking a coat of used motor oil on the metal, is that plain dumb?
 
   / Winterizing Motors #17  
grsthegreat said:
I did the same thing for years, but this year i had to rebuild my walk behind snow blower carb, One of my chainsaw carbs and i had to replace the mantis carb all together. Its the **** ethanol. This year i am using marine grade stabil and ethanol free fuel. NO MORE of this crap

Install a fuel shut off, and run the carb dry. Thanks for the marine grade stabil tip.
 
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   / Winterizing Motors #18  
Outside, in my generator, I keep it full of fuel with Stabil in it. Change the fuel out about once/year if it hasn't run dry during the year. Otherwise, crud will build up requiring some Sea Foam or Chevron Techron to decrud it. (Happened once.)

On lawn mowers stored in basement, I prefer to run them dry. (won't get hardly any temp change to cause condensation). Ran my new mower without a fuel shutoff dry and then poured some Sea Foam in to go into the carb. On old JD with fuel shutoff, I'll run at least the carb dry, maybe leave tank with fuel in it.

I've left 2 cycle fuel in my grass whip engine over the winter stored in basement of carriage house; it has one of those manual fuel pump things on it. No problems with it. On my older 1970s Stihl, I have to ALWAY run it empty of fuel, no matter what season, or it goes crappy (let it sit once with fuel in it and regretted it).

Ralph
 
   / Winterizing Motors #19  
Just curious where people stand on winterizing motors. Some people say to leave the tanks full with fuel, others say let them run till they are empty. Any thoughts? Basically I dont need to use the motors till spring and not sure the best way to store them.


Thanks

I winterize my my L head B&S wheel lie motors by running them to wrm them up, changing the oil in them, making sure there is a some Stabil in the fuel . I then and run them with the new oil with the tank connection shut off. When they stop, I let them cool and then remove the spark plug and squirt 2-3 ounces of oil in the sprk plug hole while I pull the starter cord to distribute the oil. I put the spark plug back in and they start on the first or second pull the following Spring.
Works for me.
 
   / Winterizing Motors #20  
I do nothing to my (2) shindaiwa eb630 blowers, (2) Echo 2100 SRM trimmers, (1) 3500 psi 4 gpm pressure washer and (1) Stihl Ms290 and (1) MS036 chainsaws...Start right up in the spring for years...Even my crapper 20" toro motor I do nothing.

My motorcyles I use the marine stabil (4X) better then the normal...My diesel I use nothing either; so far, -20F start right up with pride/shell diesel fuel.

So far in 35+ years no issues
 
 
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