Winterizing Motors

[Monster5601]

I have to respectfully disagree with brokenot. I have personally seen problems from condensation both in my Craftsman generator and my old steel 6 gallon fuel tanks for my boat. I work on these engines, and have seen the water drain out of the tanks and or carbs with my own eyes. Maybe it depends where you store your equipment or what part of the country you live in, but condensation in a fuel tank can most certainly lead to enough water build-up to cause problems.
I do exactly what suzy does. I run my 2 cycle equipment dry and top off the tanks of my 4 cycle equipment.
Whatever you do, do something to prevent your carb from gumming up. Good luck!
-Jay

Water separators were/are standard issue on Mercruises.

 

[JDgreen227]

I have always drained fuel or run my small engines dry, then sopped up any fuel left in the tank using a clean rag. My oldest small engine is an '89 rototiller with a 5 hp Briggs, and after storing the fuel system dry for 22 years, I have never had any issues with gasket leakage.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I do nothing to my (2) shindaiwa eb630 blowers, (2) Echo 2100 SRM trimmers, (1) 3500 psi 4 gpm pressure washer and (1) Stihl Ms290 and (1) MS036 chainsaws...Start right up in the spring for years...Even my crapper 20" toro motor I do nothing.

My motorcyles I use the marine stabil (4X) better then the normal...My diesel I use nothing either; so far, -20F start right up with pride/shell diesel fuel.

So far in 35+ years no issues

Buy a lottery ticket. I have no issues either but I take preventive measures. Every spring I have a barn full of others junk to fix. History tells me to spend a few minutes and a few bucks and I will be money well ahead.

Chris

 

[grsthegreat]

I do nothing to my (2) shindaiwa eb630 blowers, (2) Echo 2100 SRM trimmers, (1) 3500 psi 4 gpm pressure washer and (1) Stihl Ms290 and (1) MS036 chainsaws...Start right up in the spring for years...Even my crapper 20" toro motor I do nothing.

My motorcyles I use the marine stabil (4X) better then the normal...My diesel I use nothing either; so far, -20F start right up with pride/shell diesel fuel.

So far in 35+ years no issues

What kind of climate do you live in?? frozen winters or moderate? heated shop or ice box like me? :laughing:

 

[sw03]

What kind of climate do you live in?? frozen winters or moderate? heated shop or ice box like me? :laughing:

state of MA and everthing is in a shed...

 

[oldballs]

Having read this and similar posts for some time, I have wondered why condensation is never mentioned for those who stored the fuel outdoors in large 50-300 gallon tanks. Surely such large tanks are not kept full year 'round. And if the usage drops off for whatever reason, that fuel has to set in there for months with the metal drum (partially empty) and sun heating up and cooling off every day. ....just wondering. Mike

 

[brokenot]

Having read this and similar posts for some time, I have wondered why condensation is never mentioned for those who stored the fuel outdoors in large 50-300 gallon tanks. Surely such large tanks are not kept full year 'round...

The same question could be asked about any container, (such as an oil barrel), that is partially full and vented to the atmosphere.

I've been saying it for years....if you've got an engine that won't start/run due to some moisture in the fuel tank or carburetor bowl, then that moisture may indeed be the reason the engine won't run. BUT, that moisture, (the vast majority of it anyway), did not end up there due to "condensation" after the fuel was put in the tank.

If it was there due to condensation, then any other capped-but-vented container of any type holding any type of fuel/oil/whatever would be affected to the exact same degree.

I've just heard the "condensation story" too many times I guess. One rental equipment customer will have all sorts of "fuel tank condensation issues", while another customer will have no such problems at all. The equipment is of the same type, and the climate/weather conditions are identical as well. The only variables that exist are the end-user's habits, (i.e. how they're handling and storing their fuel), and the source their fuel came from.

 

[oldballs]

I have always drained fuel or run my small engines dry, then sopped up any fuel left in the tank using a clean rag. My oldest small engine is an '89 rototiller with a 5 hp Briggs, and after storing the fuel system dry for 22 years, I have never had any issues with gasket leakage.

Facts and fiction (or different ways) on this site keeps me reading. :licking:

After several years of the fall draining of gas tanks and carbs, I now leave the chipper, tiller, brush cutter, lawnmower, snow blower etc gas tank and carb full up....with Stabil added. We are talking about 3 to 6 months here. And my stuff starts and runs well when needed. Of course routine maintenance is performed as needed also. Some of my B&S engines are nearly 40 hears old and fire right up in the spring. This old dog is always looking for new and better tricks. So I'll read on.

 

[whiskywizard]

if you've got an engine that won't start/run due to some moisture in the fuel tank or carburetor bowl, then that moisture may indeed be the reason the engine won't run. BUT, that moisture, (the vast majority of it anyway), did not end up there due to "condensation" after the fuel was put in the tank.

Agreed. Water in fuel does not come from the air used to vent the tank.

The movement of air in and out of the tank's volume above the fuel is minimal, and the moisture it contains is minimal, and most of that small amount does not get knocked out on a regular basis.

When I lay up my boat for winter (450 gal of diesel) I do so with tanks less than 1/4 full. I do add stabilizer. I have never had measurable water in the fuel.

On a previous boat I ran into a water problem (gassers, not diesel). All my buddies are yapping at me about condensation. My troubleshooting revealed a chunk missing from the fuel filler cap o-ring. Rainwater running down the side decks was leaking past the bad o-ring.