Reviving ford 1700 after11 years

[mickd]

I recently purchased a 1980 ford 1700 tractor which has been sitting in a garage since the previous owner passed away (approx 11 yrs )
Is there anything special I should do as not to cause any damage ? I have been told to change oil & filter , using SAE-30 non detergent
run for an hour or so then change oil and filter again.Electrically, everything on the tractor works including the hour meter, so I believe
it has only 550 hours on it. Am I headed in the right direction ? any other tips you guys could give me would be appreciated.

[ericher69]

Drain fuel, rinse tank and refill with fresh fuel. Change the fuel filter if there is one.
Check air intake (for mice) change air filter
Top up the battery and charge, check specific gravity of electrolyte and if good you can do a load test to see how it holds a charge.
Air or liquid cooled?
If liquid change coolant, flush and refill.

Gear hydro?

Change tranny oil and filter

Even if it doesn't really need it you can start your maintenance schedule from the current hour meter reading as you know the maintenance has been done.

This should keep you busy; good luck!

[Gale Hawkins]

I agree with ericher69.

In PA I wonder where the 30 weigh non detergent though came from. We use Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in in everything on place from 3 hp, diesel tractors and old big block Ford and Chevy engines.

Our new 1962 Ford 801 got Chevron 10W-30 starting with first change in 1962.

Have you ever tore down an engine that ran non-detergent motor oil?

[brin]

Eric and Gale have given you great advice...I do exactly that and start your regular maintenance with a nice clean start...11 yrs. is along time for oil, fuel , filters, battery etc....start fresh...and be safe.

[Diamondpilot]

The guys covered it well. I would not use ND SAE30. I would use a quality 15W40 like Dello 400, Delvac, or even Rotella. I would also change everything on the fuel system I could before trying to start it. That means filters, fuel lines, hoses (I have seen many many look fine on the outside but broken down internally from sitting with bad fuel in them), and of course drain the tank and flush with a few gallons of clean fuel before putting any fuel I planned on trying to start it on. I would also pull the injectors or glow plugs and put 1 oz of motor oil in each cylinder and then put wrench on the crank pulley nut and turn the engine over 5 or so times by hand first to pre oil and also just make sure its not stuck. Also, make sure it does not have a seperate oil sump on the injector pump. Many old diesels did this instead of using engine oil to lube them. If it does drain it and refill with the same oil that your motor gets.

Lastly, I would add a biocide to the fuel along with a double dose of diesel fuel conditioner.

Chris

[crashz]

All good advice above. Fuel system, Engie oil and filter, transmission fluid and axles (if seperate or 4wd). Also don't forget to grease everything with a grease fitting.

I also wouldn't hesitate to run a heavy dose of diesel fuel conditioner in the tractor on a regular basis. These older tractors were built before the ultra low sulfur diesel was required, therefore the needed lubricity is no longer in modern diesel fuel.

[mickd]

Thank you all for your responses, All good sound advice, I guess I'd better be getting to my local tractor supply store.
Thanks again. Mickd

[1fastbob]

New battery, change all the fluids, lubricate fittings, change all the filters, drain and clean the gas tank and check for leaks. Should be ready to go.

[Soundguy]

whoever told you to use ase 30 ND hates you, hates that machine.. and shouldn't be around a wrench...

[Cidertom]

The ND oil as flush was at one time fairly common "way to do it" for mothballed equipment. The theory was get lube to the bearings without disolving too much crud that settled out in the sump. This was more a flush. Once the oil got hot and loosened the sump up you drain, change filter and then refill with the normal oil.