Milky Oil and Transmission Fluid

[Soundguy]

I would be a bit concerned using diesel if hydraulics are involved, as diesel explodes on compression, and while it is very unlikely that a hydraulic system will reach even close to that pressure, I wasn't prepared to take that risk. Especially with the addition of alcohol. My tractor uses the transmission oil for all the hydraulic systems.

nevermind.

if you are concerned with diesel reachin combustion temps and pressures in your hyd system.. and or the additio of alcohol to absorb moisture ( commercially sold to do so ).. then we don't need to be talking.

You might want to stay inside and make sure the black helicopters cant see you.. the tin foil hat may not need to be worn.. but won't hurt!

SSeriousoly though.. I was having a borring night, thanks forthe pickmeup. Reading that reply was the most entertainment I had all night. i gotta go forward this link to all my tractor buddies.

just for kicks.. what psi do you think yer diesel fuel injectors work at? ( i've seen pressures in the 1000-1800 BAR ) now i'm afraid to go start my truck or tractor due to t
he extreme pressure the fuel will be at when injected into the cyl... great! now I gotta walk home to keep my powerstroke from blowing up from the extreme fuel pressure!

soundguy

 

[CalG]

I'ts a pretty common practice to thin oil with some diesel or kerosene and then add alcohol to it to dewater.. then drain.

jd used to reccomend thinning the gear oil in the wihter with kerosene!

( but heck.. who are they? what would their engineers know.. right? )


and transtune/seafoam is an alcohol product for watter disoloution.

a home brew i use is atf, diesel and 90% rubbing alcohol.
have used it on virtually all my machines and countless dozens (plus) other tracotrs and pieces of heavy equipment. ( not specifically in the crankcase mind you.. just oil sumps.. )

you do whatever makes you sleep better at night.

running water laden hyd oil in a pump for hours upon hours will cause cavitation and SEVERE reduction in lube.. way worse than a lil diesel and atf and alcohol...

i don't know if transtune lists hyds applications or just trannies on their can.. however a email to their tech dept will get you a reply. the reply to me was that it was fine in hyds as well...

Those engine-ears seem to know the difference between thinning the lube, and running straight thinner. Plus, Kero is NOT diesel fuel. Close, but not.

I have been known to crack the sump drains on the trans and rear axle when the tractor has set idle for some time. Water being the heavier fluid, it comes out first. Losing a few drops of lube oil on a 9 gallon (40 liter) fill never worried me. ;-)

Water laden, and milky may be a matter of judgment, can't say from here.

Ultimately, it does come down to what lets you sleep at night. The Fordson handbook tells operators to flush with engine oil. But, one should not trust what they read.

Cheers

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Deleted due to being off subject.

 

[CalG]

I know a fool who did that once. 20 miles after it was filled with clean oil it leaked out the hole in the side of the block. He will not do that again. Now he just dumps in a can of Sea Foam and drives lightly for 25-50 miles and drains hot.

20 to 50 miles on a tractor? Was this his commuter rig?

Come to think of it, none of my equipment even have odometers

Hobbs meters are as close as they get.

 

[Soundguy]

Those engine-ears seem to know the difference between thinning the lube, and running straight thinner.

I don't believe I reccomended running straight thinner?

Plus, Kero is NOT diesel fuel. Close, but not.

Really? ANOTHER thread where someone is harping over the difference in #1 and #2

I have been known to crack the sump drains on the trans and rear axle when the tractor has set idle for some time. Water being the heavier fluid, it comes out first. Losing a few drops of lube oil on a 9 gallon (40 liter) fill never worried me. ;-)

won't help with the stuff already in a stabil emulsion...

Water laden, and milky may be a matter of judgment, can't say from here.

if the oil is emulsified.. it needs to go.. and it needs to take the wife and kids with it. way cheaper, easier, faster to do that with a lil science vs brute force. Brute force would have you change the oil with more good oil and recontaminate that good oil with the significant leavinfs.. and then just run it till it evaps.

Applying a lil science we can look at the following. Adding a lil diesel or kerosene to the emulsified oil will thin it a bit. this will help with draining and removing emulsion stuck on the sides of the sump.... kinda like taking an expectorant for phlegm.. thins it for removal! . Adding alcohol to the mix will disolve water. water is polar.. the alcohol is a polar solvent. what you get is an azeotrope.. 1, the free water will be grabbed and drained. any leftovers will be that azeotrope, which should evaporate FASTER than plain water alone.. a 1-2 punch.

I usually dump in a lil atf-f or dex III for some detergents to suspend material to be removed during draining.


cheaper and more eficient to drain with that flush, vs multiple 'changes' and then running the snot out of it to get it to boil off.

again.. the op is free to do what they feel like. history shows that the BFI method can and does work. just look at our us early nuke program and how we used calutrons enmasse if that wasn't BFi.. nothing was!

 

[Soundguy]

I know a fool who did that once. 20 miles after it was filled with clean oil it leaked out the hole in the side of the block. He will not do that again. Now he just dumps in a can of Sea Foam and drives lightly for 25-50 miles and drains hot.

in case it was missed.. i'm not talking about putting alc/fuel into the crankcase.

i'm guessing that was missed...

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Deleted because poster off subject twice.

 

[FarmerChad]

I am amazed at the info shared here. Thanks everyone! We changed the oil and transmission fluid yesterday. I drove it up to the shop to get a plow mounted; I'll check it when I get it back and see how things look. Next time I will flush it with diesel and alcohol as mentioned by you all. Thanks again!

 

[megaboz]

Use a quality fluid that doesn't will desperate from the water after it sits. This way you can drain the water out if this is a reoccurring problem.

As for flushing with this or that, well I will leave that to everyone else to argue about.

 

[flusher]

Water in the oil--caused by condensation over a long period of time.
I just drained the gear oil out of the tranny/rear end of my 1949 JD B tractor last week--lotsa water mixed in.
Drained the oil (4.5 gallon capacity). Flushed it with 2 gal of 80-90W gear oil mixed with 2 gal diesel, 1 quart of ATF and 1 quart of rubbing alcohol (to help remove the residual water). Drove the tractor around about 15 minutes and then drained the flush mix. Refilled with 4.5 gallons of new 80-90W gear oil.