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11-23-2012, 06:35 AM #1
Deisel Break in Period
Hello fellow tbn members, I would like some feed back on the break in on a new CCY SX3100, Should i stay conventinal oil currently using CH rated 10w30 or use a synthetic oil? I plan on swithcing to synthetic oil but not sure a what point to do it or if i can do it right from the start. Thanks for the feedback guys.
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11-23-2012, 06:59 AM #2
Re: Deisel Break in Period
Check your Operator Manual, I think you will find it recommends oil & filter change at the first 50 hrs. If so leave the oil that is in it and change to your choice then.
Dennis
CT225 w/7TL QA FEL, 60"tooth dirt bucket, 68" smooth bucket, Pallet Forks, Bale Spear. Hydrualic top llin, QH, 48 RC, 60" tiller, Angle blade, Landscape rake, Carry-all, Post hole auger.
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11-23-2012, 10:29 AM #3Platinum Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Posts
- 605
Re: Deisel Break in Period
Take it out and drive it like it was stolen, a minimum of idling and putting around.Then follow the operators manual.
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11-23-2012, 10:48 AM #4Elite Member
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- Dec 2007
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- 3,511
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- Ohio
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- JD 5520, 790 TLB-- Kub L4300, B7800, MX5100
Re: Deisel Break in Period
I do my first oil change at 50 hours and replace with dino oil. Next change is 100 or 125 hours and then I switch to synthetic.
******
Don't sweat the small stuff...
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11-27-2012, 01:48 PM #5Epic Contributor
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- Mar 2002
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- 42,050
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- Central florida
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- ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Re: Deisel Break in Period
ditto that... follow manf rec oil change for 1st change and break in.. i like to drive thru a range of rpms.. and don't just let them idle..etc.
past that.. whatever meets the spec and wallet..
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11-27-2012, 07:48 PM #6
Re: Deisel Break in Period
Thanks for the replys. Its snowing here but i don't thinks its going to be enough to use the tractor. DARN!!! With only 3 hours on it i just keep looking at it all pretty and clean in the garage!!
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11-30-2012, 07:56 PM #7Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
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- 1,002
Re: Deisel Break in Period
Just use the tractor as you would and be fine. I changed to Amsoil at 65 hours.....First 65 was lots of full throttle BH etc.
"In God we trust; all others must bring data"
-Edwards Deming
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12-04-2012, 07:30 PM #8Elite Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
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- 4,735
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- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
Re: Deisel Break in Period
Check your manual and I think you will find that it will tell you to use the breakin oil for at least first 50 hours. Mine said to load the engine heavily for break in period and avoid idling conditions as much as possible. I managed to keep a good load on it digging a pond for about 20 hours. I switched to synthetic at the 50 hour oil change which was also 1 year duration. The oil was still clear at change which was surprising for a diesel. I contributed this to the break-in oil which must have been straight mineral oil and not a HD diesel oil. You want a wear in period where the rings and bearings seat to their mating surfaces and to do this the engine needs to be loaded up. We could do this easier on the farm where we had large ground engaging equipment that we hooked to new tractors and took off at wide open throttle with as much disc as it would pull right from the get go. That is the way the manufacturers want them to be broke in.
2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 54" John Deere 332 lawn tractor, 5.5HP rear tined walk behind tiller, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp CC/CV AC/DC welding machine and a shop full of tools that I spend more time looking for than using.
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12-08-2012, 03:37 PM #9Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
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- 1,631
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- Holland, PA
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- 2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3, 1986 Case IH 255, 1986 Gravely 8199G
Re: Deisel Break in Period
took off at wide open throttle with as much disc as it would pull right from the get go. That is the way the manufacturers want them to be broke in.
now that's a heavy load for sure, guess you want to work the engine, get it hot like it should, and make sure its range of motions is full and complete.
Sure not doing that with my Kubota, wonder how I can load it more. I suppose I could put on the subsoiler or plow and dig rocky soil for awhile...that's about the only thing I have to
put a real strain on the engine. Without using ground engaging implements or pto driven horsepower sucking attachments, how does one realistically accomplish this?
I changed with conventional oil at 20 hours, will do again at 70, then go synthetic.2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3 with FEL and Long grapple, 1986 Case IH 255, Land Pride PD10 PHD, Land Pride RCR60 mower, Land Pride box blade and rear rake, Fred Cain subsoiler, County Line potato plow, County Line 1 bottom plow, 1986 Gravely 8199G with tow behind DR rototiller, 50" deck+40" Gravely wing mower, Gravely snowblower, Swisher 44 rough cut mower,Ariens snowblower, Echo 450-18 & 600-24, Echo PPT280, 2006 JD LX280, , 1968 Cub Cadet 125, Husky-Speeco 35 ton splitter 2012 Suburban 2500
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