Sea Foam in Crankcase Before and After Photos.

[Nooodles]

Those are just pictures without any real info. Don't be so gullible

 

[Loadstar]

For the most part in my experience it liquifies deposits. If you are going to clean a nasty engine with an additive you would definitely want to shorten oil change intervals I would go as far as to change filters between the shortened intervals.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Where in today's world do you find an engine like that pictured? There was a time 50-60 yrs ago something like that was not all that uncommon but for the oils we have today, how is it possible other than not changing the oil all together.

Here's a pic I've posted before. Car had something like 135k miles on it and has seen nothing but run of the mill dino oil. I've just got back from a 4600 mi trip and no oil added and still reading full on the dip stick. Also oil is no darker than that pictured. I typ change oil about every 7k miles.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

For the most part in my experience it liquifies deposits. If you are going to clean a nasty engine with an additive you would definitely want to shorten oil change intervals I would go as far as to change filters between the shortened intervals.

Loadstar I was very impressed with filter only change results. The 1989 F700 with the Ford big block 429 must to have not had the oil changed in 5+ years and I expect the extra long NAPA Gold filter had been used by the owner before the last two. The guy I bought it from bought it from a junk yard that was going to part it out.

The Fumoto oil drain valve that I ordered was too small to fit the hole so I had to go back with the old plug in a VERY worn hole. You know there is a fine line between stripping it out or it falling out due to not being tight enough. I did the Sea Foam in the crankcase for maybe 20 minutes at idle then drained and pulled the filter. As always I added 4 oz of oil at a time until it when from black to clear using Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 gas/diesel rated motor oil and a new Wix filter.

We went 200 miles to pick up an old equipment trailer and it was totally black. I just pulled the filter and filled the new one and screwed it on. Bingo it went clear again but a few hundred miles later it was not black but very dirty looking so did the filled filter replacement thing again and a year later (more hours than miles due to moving dirt on the place) the Rotella 5W-40 is still quite clear. The truck shows 144K miles but since the radiator was replaced years ago I doubt it is the OEM engine but could be. The engine does not burn oil. I drove it home 300 miles from near GA on I-24. It is not as powerful as the 454 in the motorhome but I am sure the plugs are 10-15 years old.

If changing a filter clears up the motor oil I assume the bad stuff is in the filter and by tossing it then it is out of the engine. In it I plan to do that every year until a new filter will not clear it up due to the drain plug condition. The new oil put in the filter gives some new additives to the old oil. On it the filter is right behind the radiator so I can change it in a flash. For filter only changes I like to do it with the engine ice cold and being inverted the crude should have drained back down. I let all the oil that will drain before I go back with the new filter.

Not sure why filter only short changes are not preached more today for dirty engines and extended change cycles. Some oil may be good for 15,000 miles but few filters are rated for 15,000 miles and often they do not filter to as small of a micron size I have read.

 

[Loadstar]

As expensive as oil is getting I will be changing a lot more filters to extend oil change outs. Most of my equipment gets oil changes by look, feel and smell of oil. Different engines vary so much on wear and usage I quit watching my miles/hours so hard on a lot of stuff to base my oil changes on.

 

[Nooodles]

That engine was overheating and or had a coolant leaki allowing coolant to mix with the oil. probably drove that way for a good amount of time. Sea foam did not clean that either. That was cleaned manually.

 

[Soundguy]

i'll tell you what I have done on super dirty tractor engines.

and yeah.. i have seen oil sumps that needed a screwdriver poke to drain.

on those.. I dropped the pan if possible and manually cleaned the lower portion with a putt' knife and then degreaser..


otherwise.. I added a quart of atf to the oil and ran till warm then drained.

if i knew that the engine had been on NON detergent oil or otherwise super neglected.. i did an oil change with 50/50 nd and detergent oil.. and a new filter.. short interval.. and beore draining.. added more atf.

I had a jd B that took 4 oil changes till the oil drained clear and the filter cartridge came out without gunk..

 

[dodge man]

My dad had a 77 Ford Granada. I changed the valve cover gaskets for him once. The valve covers will full of sludge. It wasn't over heated and it didn't have coolant in the oil. Some egines are more prone to sludge, but oils have improved a lot since the late 70's.

 

[Nooodles]

My dad had a 77 Ford Granada. I changed the valve cover gaskets for him once. The valve covers will full of sludge. It wasn't over heated and it didn't have coolant in the oil. Some egines are more prone to sludge, but oils have improved a lot since the late 70's.

Typically you don't see sludge like that in today's engines unless you have had a issue as I described. 70's was a long time ago sir

 

[Soundguy]

i don't think i've ever seen a running engine THAT bad.

I have taken apart plenty of tractor engines that were not stuck but wouldn't start.. .. some had usual gunk from 70 ys of use.. but nowhere half as near that.