Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www

   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #1  

Texasmark

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Tractor
Ford: '88 3910 Series II, '65 3000; '07 6530C Branson with FEL, 2020 LS MT225S. All Diesels
My BS replacement engine is coming in today and with nothing to do I thought I'd browse their www. One question I had was break in for new engines and wanted to see how it compared to older BI periods......same up and down throttle and lay off the heavy loads for 5-10 hrs if you are interested. They said that new technologies in materials and mfgr. techniques allowed the rings to set faster.

I am a synthetic oil believer. I use it in everything but my old tractors. What caught my eye was the oil consumption comments between 10w dino oil and 5w syn....see below.

Interesting as I don't usually add oil between changes, never thought the oil had anything to do with it, per se, on my 4.8L Silverado which runs on 5w-30 Mobil 1, nor on my 4.7L '07 Dodge with 5w-30, nor my 5.7L Hemi which ran 5w-20 of all things but it had the 4+4 system for idle economy and the owner's manual said it wouldn't work properly on thicker oil, nor in my Cummins 3.3L with Rot. T 5w-40, or any of my air cooled engines which also run Mobil 1. What it does do for me in the air cooled is get me through the season, and on little used machines, 2 seasons on one change of oil.

Ha! Must be something to it after all.
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From BS:


Oil Recommendation

SAE 30 40ーF and higher (5ーC and higher) is good for all purpose use above 40ーF, use below 40ーF will cause hard starting.

10W-30 0 to 100 ーF (-18 to 38 ーC) is better for varying temperature conditions. This grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80ーF(27ーC) or higher.

Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120 ーF (-30 to 40 ーC) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.

5W-30 40 ーF and below (5 ーC and below) is recommended for winter use, and works best in cold conditions.
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #2  
You'll find what you describe quantified in the NOACK volatility specs. A lower # is better.

Most synthetics will burn off less at high temperatures than pretty much any conventional oil. Important when an engine manufacturer wants a long OCI (given the way most folks today don't check oil), and gets even more relevant in some modern gas engines that are prone to sludging up. This issue drives part of the Dexos spec.

I use synth for a lot of things, but I also use conventional oil too.

Rgds, D.
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #3  
I'm like you in that I have synthetic Mobil 1 in both vehicles, and have been using it since about 1986. I'll run it up to 9k or a little more, but change filters every 3k . My tractor gets regular Delvac 15-40 that gets changed each fall. All I use it for is grass and snow blowing and is garage kept that is heated in the winter. No cold weather start up issues for me.
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #4  
My nephews 2008 f-250 with the 6.8 V10 uses 5w-20 oil as well as my 2011 hemi. I have heard that if you use the wrong oil in the hemi, it will go into 4 cylinder mode, and then because the thicker oil doesn't flow as well, will not allow the lifter to expand again after the collapse phase.
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #5  
I'm also a believer in synthetic lubricants. I used it in all my vehicles and small engines.
One thing I would like to comment on is changing oil filters early.
This practice does not keep the oil or air cleaner when in fact it can actually allow larger particles to enter the system versus a used seasoned filter.
Any new filter if viewed under a microscope is not as uniform as we think, spacing between the fabric varies.
When you install a new filter smaller contamination (particles) that are in the oil/air will pass thru the filter material until it encounters an opening that is smaller than it thus stopping it.
Under use this process continues and actually makes the filter more efficient at catching smaller and smaller particles as the filter becomes loaded because the larger openings in the fabric are filled.
The same is true of air filters.
But as the filter becomes more efficient at stopping particles it becomes less efficient at flow. That is why air filters on diesels have air restriction gauges (filter minders) to indicate when it is no longer suitable for continued use.
In industrial applications turbine applications there are filters that require seasoning when replaced, these are used to polish oil.
What I do is find a replacement filter that has a micron rating equal to or smaller than the OEM that is physically larger with more filter media in it for extended use.
I’ve run oil over 18k miles and used filters over 12k in my Jeep & Cummins diesels never an issue.
90cummins
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #6  
Noack volatility limits for API mineral oils is 15%. The oil can burn off 15% of its volume and still pass the API tests. People think they are burning oil due to mechanical problems but the oil is burning off from the heat of the engine.


Look at the Noack Volatility on this chart of 100% synthetics

dc6d1926-15c6-4ebb-a841-10a677b54f0a_zps6d18ed29.png
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Noack volatility limits for API mineral oils is 15%. The oil can burn off 15% of its volume and still pass the API tests. People think they are burning oil due to mechanical problems but the oil is burning off from the heat of the engine.


Look at the Noack Volatility on this chart of 100% synthetics

dc6d1926-15c6-4ebb-a841-10a677b54f0a_zps6d18ed29.png

Thanks Z.

I'm not familiar with the column titles in parenthesis. Can you tell me whose is what or direct me where I could find out? Interesting in the differences and one wonders if it's vendor related or something the process requires to formulate the specific viscosity rating.

Mark
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Noack volatility limits for API mineral oils is 15%. The oil can burn off 15% of its volume and still pass the API tests. People think they are burning oil due to mechanical problems but the oil is burning off from the heat of the engine.


Look at the Noack Volatility on this chart of 100% synthetics

dc6d1926-15c6-4ebb-a841-10a677b54f0a_zps6d18ed29.png

Thanks Z.

I'm not familiar with the column titles in parenthesis. Can you tell me whose is what or direct me where I could find out? Interesting in the differences and one wonders if it's vendor related or something the process requires to formulate the specific viscosity rating.

Mark
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #9  
They are the product codes for the oil e.g. SAE 0W-20 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil : Product Code ASM

Its dependent on the additives and the oil formulations. Lower quality oils tend to have higher NOACK because of the lower cost additives used.

Interesting site with lots of oil info---> PQIA Pick your favorite brand of mineral oil and check the NOACK.
 
   / Interesting tidbit from the Briggs & Stratton Engine www #10  
There is a lot more to a quart of oil than base stock. The add pack is just as important. Many folks seem to concentrate on whether a motor oil is conventional, synthetic, or "fake" synthetic as some like to call Group III stuff. The add pack and all of it's viscosity improvers, detergents, oxidation prevention and anti friction components, etc can make or break any base oil. NOACK is just one of many things that a person needs to take a look at when deciding on an oil. If the viscosity improvers are not up to snuff, you can have oil "shearing" and end up with the oil going out of grade, just as bad if not more so than having a higher NOACK number. And some engines are just plain tougher on an oil than another. What works in one application can have dismal results in another.

PQIA is a good site as a starting point for useful information. At least they show the components, and how much, that make up a lot of the add pack in their analysis. But it is just that... a starting point.

To that end, the Amsoil 10w30/30w is a great small engine oil (as Briggs small engines were what started this thread). It needs no viscosity improvers and is a straight 30w, but because of being a synthetic and it's cold flow properties, it qualifies as a 10w30 oil. And it has a very stout add pack. It would be a stellar performer for most any small engine. I use it in all my mower, pressure washer, and generator stuff I have. Don't use Amsoil in everything I own, but this one is a killer product for small engines.

AMSOIL Formula 4-Stroke 10W-30/SAE 30 Small Engine Oil

For our bigger compact stuff, they have a similar product that is also a straight 30w but qualifies as a 10w30 because of it's synthetic cold flow properties. A darn good oil for compact tractor diesels.

AMSOIL Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil

You would have a tough time shearing these oils out of viscosity.
 
 
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