StoneyFF
Member
<font color="blue">OK, Folks...
All this talk about Synthetic vs. Dino oil has me thinking about some things I learned many years ago in college (majored in Mech. Eng. and minored in Automotive Eng. at NC State)...
The only 'pure' Dino oil is single grade (i.e. 30 wt or 40 wt)... All the multi-viscosity (10-30 wt, 5-40 wt, etc.) are partially synthetic... If the oil is 10-30 wt, it's really 10 wt oil that has heat activated polymers that thicken it up as the engine heats up.
Now, in the old days, this was a knock on multi-grade oil, now days, it's just the opposite <grin>... synthetic is better... who knew...
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<font color="maroon">Stoney</font>
<font color="red">{There are two reasons for changing your oil, one is oil breakdown, the other is dirt... there's a lot less dirt in todays engines, and a lot less breakdown in todays oils, especially the fully synthetics... but then again, going back to the Cape Buffalo Repellent Rock... sometimes it's simply a case of 'better safe than sorry'... right?}</font>
All this talk about Synthetic vs. Dino oil has me thinking about some things I learned many years ago in college (majored in Mech. Eng. and minored in Automotive Eng. at NC State)...
The only 'pure' Dino oil is single grade (i.e. 30 wt or 40 wt)... All the multi-viscosity (10-30 wt, 5-40 wt, etc.) are partially synthetic... If the oil is 10-30 wt, it's really 10 wt oil that has heat activated polymers that thicken it up as the engine heats up.
Now, in the old days, this was a knock on multi-grade oil, now days, it's just the opposite <grin>... synthetic is better... who knew...
</font>
<font color="maroon">Stoney</font>
<font color="red">{There are two reasons for changing your oil, one is oil breakdown, the other is dirt... there's a lot less dirt in todays engines, and a lot less breakdown in todays oils, especially the fully synthetics... but then again, going back to the Cape Buffalo Repellent Rock... sometimes it's simply a case of 'better safe than sorry'... right?}</font>