Testing Engine Oil - how sample taken?

[penokee]

I've read many of the posts on sending a sample of your engine oil in to have it tested. New to this process and since converting to synthetic will most likely go that route.

Question: How do you get your sample? Drain one out of the oil pan? Also. how large of a sample do you have to submit? If questions don't make sense, blame it on the fact that I know zero about this, but like the idea and willing to learn.

penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

What I do is this: I remove the drain plug, let the used warm oil drain for like 5 seconds. Then I fill the lab-supplied container with used oil. Installed cap on container, wrap trap around so it does not leak and then I am done…with that part.

The size of the sample is not rally a big deal. I think all mine are like 8 oz. I would not send them a gallon of used oil! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Getting ready myself to do one on my Lexus. Almost to the 1-year life on the oil. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[penokee]

Mike - Thanks. Must be somewhat of a mess getting the drain plug back in, or do you just more or less let it dribble out of a loose plug. I think back to the days I would change oil on my vehicles and equipment, and when I removed the plug I usually lost it in the collection pan because of the gush or ended up with an oil drenched arm.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

you are not far off here. If you are draining the complete engine, you are fine. If not, you need to work quick and I would have paper towels ready. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

You could trying to only loosen up the bolt to have like 1 thread let and see how that goes. The important part is to not use the oil the first comes out.

I remeber trying to drain my Powerchoke with the world famous junk tranny E40D; with no drain plug (bright design). ..16 qts all over.......

 

[Phred]

If you are changing the oil then the above works.
Sometimes you may want to sample the oil first and see if it needs to be changed.

So get 1 large syringe from a vet supply store without the needle. Cost is a couple of bucks. A large one is needed so you can get enough oil without having to use it ten times.
Stick a 2' long piece of plastic hose on the end.

Now all you need to do is remove the dip stick and use this new contraption to suck some oil out. The dipstick opening on my tractor is larger than 1 inch so it is very easy to get a full syringe. I then just squirt this into the plastic bottle supplied by the oil sample company.

Don't forget to top it off as needed to replace the lost oil.

Also it is a good idea to store this device in a plastic bag so it stays clean. You will not want to stick the hose back into the tractor if it sits on the shelf in your garage for a year exposed to dust.

Fred

 

[dmccarty]

penokee,

I used to just collect a sample when draining the oil. And I will still do it this way. However, at the last oil change I put on a oil drain valve in place of the drain plug from Fumoto drain valve.

I have not tried it yet, /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif to drain the oil that is, /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif But I will in another couple of months. This is going to make it much easier to drain the oil. Everyone I have seen who has the valve likes it.

My last oil change was at 8,000 miles on Shell 5w40 oil. I did not really want to go that high but we where busy fixing up and selling the old house. The test report came back and said to go for 10,000 miles on the oil. I just drain, get a sample and test it. Once I settle in on a milage I'll just drain at that point and test once a year or so. I think the milage point for me is going to be 7,500 to 8,000 miles. I really am not into the extended oil drains but if I can change at 8,000 miles and not at 5,000 I'll do it. I want to aim for 7,500/8,000 but have wiggle room to go over if I need too. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Later,
Dan

 

[sneaky_pete]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( However, at the last oil change I put on a oil drain valve in place of the drain plug from Fumoto drain valve.

I have not tried it yet, /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif to drain the oil that is, /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif But I will in another couple of months. This is going to make it much easier to drain the oil. Everyone I have seen who has the valve likes it.)</font>

I have drain valves from Trasko on two of my cars and am quite happy with them - they drain easily with no mess, and don't leak between drains.

 

[gsxr1100]

I assume you are running rotella???I would also keep an eye on your TBN, oxd and nox levels (insolubles); since rotella has a high level of 1.47 % ash. And your fuel levels too. Most times the labs places say you can keep going with a very low TBN and it is cutting it thin….

 

[penokee]

Phred - dm - sneaky, More good ideas. Looks like any one of the three will keep me from resurfacing my Blacktop diveway with used oil, as I recently did /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[JJT]

Dan, I can vouch for the Fumoto valves, I'm using them on both my daily drivers. Makes changing the oil a breeze. No more lost drain plug in the drain pan, leaking plugs because you reused the crush washer 1 too many times, or risk stripping out the drain by over torqueing the drain bolt.... Are you using the stainless steel keeper, (hose clamp) on your Fumoto valve?