Looking for good Synth 10W-30 for Diesel

   / Looking for good Synth 10W-30 for Diesel #31  
a "worst" case is 20 below pour point. So if pour is -40 below the oil will or can be pumping 100% fine at -20 below. Again this is worse case since some do not post pumping temps. Some could only be 10 below. I always do worst case to ensure it will pump.

I was running 15w-40 in MA without any external heat. Ran fine. Now with a dino, good luck at -10 below F.
 
   / Looking for good Synth 10W-30 for Diesel #32  
If you're trying to start an engine at -40, only use 0wxx grade.

I'd only use 5wxx or 0wxx in winter time now that they're available. The 5wxx works fine in Va, but I'd be using 0wxx in Vt.

Ralph
 
   / Looking for good Synth 10W-30 for Diesel #33  
based on what?
 
   / Looking for good Synth 10W-30 for Diesel #34  
Owxx oil was the ONLY oil in research tests that would not cause smoking of the valve train in startups at -40 F in the Imperial cold room tests with transparent valve covers.

I'd only stop off at 15wxx grade if your engine is smoking some. This was the case with my Gravely. I'd use 15w50 synthethic in it. Anything lighter weight would cause some blue smoke to appear on revving after idling a bit, and it would consume more.

Think 5wxx is a good oil for anything south of about northern NJ. Anywhere north of there, I'd be using 0wxx at least in the winter. On synthethetic with oil changes only about once/year, I'd be using 0wxx year round in northern regions except maybe in Gravely or others that are prone to burn some oil.

Ralph
 
   / Looking for good Synth 10W-30 for Diesel #35  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Owxx oil was the ONLY oil in research tests that would not cause smoking of the valve train in startups at -40 F in the Imperial cold room tests with transparent valve covers.

I'd only stop off at 15wxx grade if your engine is smoking some. This was the case with my Gravely. I'd use 15w50 synthethic in it. Anything lighter weight would cause some blue smoke to appear on revving after idling a bit, and it would consume more.

Think 5wxx is a good oil for anything south of about northern NJ. Anywhere north of there, I'd be using 0wxx at least in the winter. On synthethetic with oil changes only about once/year, I'd be using 0wxx year round in northern regions except maybe in Gravely or others that are prone to burn some oil.

Ralph )</font>

Could be true, but based on oils numbers (any group 4 or 5), I do not know if I buy it. Plus you are talking about –40 F here right? Plus how was the “research tests” given the process, environment???? Most oils do not even have a pumping temp here. Kind of a lost/dead issue in my book. Plus what oils, are they shear stable, do they thicken?, additives in oil? etc etc.

Smoking could be a local case in your Gravely. My Bx does not do that with a 15w-40 or a 5w-30. Next is 99% of the oils (diesel) do not have a 0w-30. Then if you need a thicker oil to stop smoking, I think you might have a larger issue then oil here (aka ring issue). Then it depends on the color of the smoke too.

Again, I used 15w-40 PAO based oil north of NJ (all year long) and run just fine. I ran in from 1996 to 2004/2005 in my old Powerchoke, my JD455 and my BX22. Temps go from about –15 F to about 105 F. All started fine un-aided etc etc. Plus the oil test show they performed just fine. I am not saying you are wrong but with synthetic all the numbers in manuals are well, thrown out the door. Plus the fact I lived here my entire life and well, you can use a 5w-30, 15w-40, 10w-30, etc up here in MA without issues; all true synthetic here.

Now dino, is old-school and you need thinner oils in winter. Also it was hot last summer and I ran 15w-40. It was over 100 for days up here and I ran 5w-40. Again, I will test at 1-year and see how my engine does with these two oils. It will be interesting to see.
 
 
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