Does size matter?

   / Does size matter? #1  

EastTractor

New member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
11
Tractor
2006 B7510 HSD
I have a B7510 and am looking to buy an inexpensive rotary cutter. I should get a 4 ft one since that is the one that is the best fit for my tractor. But, a local dealer has a used 42" woods rotary cutter that is about half the price of the cheaper new ones that I am looking at (KK, Howse, Midwest).

I need to use it to reclaim/tame about 1.5 acres of wild overgrowth, mostly vines, thorn bushes, saplings, etc and a lot of 50 to 100 foot trees. And, I want to keep it tame until I cut enough trees to justify a day's rental of a decent size excavator to remove stumps and rocks. Ultimately, the plot will become more lawn.

Will the 6 inch difference really matter in my case and/or could a 42" cutter cut through thicker growth on my machine than a 48" RC? Which would you buy? This is my first experience with a rotary cutter.
 
   / Does size matter? #2  
I don't think there will be any difference in the thickness of vegetation you can cut if both are light duty cutters. The 42" is obviously 6" narrower and when you consider the need to overlap and the generally erratic cut of rotary mowers, it will effectively be cutting only 36-40" per pass (of course the 48" would be in the 42-46" range per pass).

Rotary cutters usually get beat up in use, so don't spend more than you have to, especially since it sounds like you'll be using this for just a year or two before you can remove trees and create a regular lawn in the area. Is the used Woods in good shape - no dents or rust? If so, and the price is half of the cheaper new ones, sounds like a good deal to me. If it looks really worn, the new ones might be a better bet.
 
   / Does size matter? #3  
EastTractor:

I had a Woods M-40 Rotary Cutter on my old tractor. It was a real tank. I did ultimately kill it through abuse, but it did everything I asked of it. It cut down quite a few larger size saplings on my 7+ acres over its years of abuse. I do not think that the 6" difference makes much of a difference as to power requirements, but the Woods may be a heavier duty RC than the other brands and would probably take on the rough stuff you intend to cut. I would suggest that you use a RC that is wider than your wheel width. Jay
 
   / Does size matter? #4  
If you are going to cut saplings (you didn't mention the diameter of them) I wouldn't worry about size so much as how heavy the cutter is built. I have a light duty 6' cutter that I use on "tamed" land and a 7' sho'nuff rough cut shredder that I get out in the woods. The size is not the deciding factor. It is the ruggedness of the gearbox, the thickness of the deck, whether or not it has a stumpjumper (blades attach to a spinning disk instead of directly to the output shaft of the gearbox, lets it "jump" over stumps, mounds, etc.) and how much webbing or reinforcement there is in the chassis.
My 6' shredder has a single rear wheel and is light enough I hardly know its back there. The 7' has two wheels on back, and is heavy enough to make the front of the tractor light when I raise it up.
 
   / Does size matter? #5  
The implement table in the B7510/7610 Owner's Manual recommends 42" for the B7510....not that it makes much difference. I got one of those cheap KK XB 48 inchers for my B7610 but am underwhelmed by the rate at which the mowing gets done; so 42" would probably be really painful. That plus the inability to accurately regulate cutter height (thanks to the 7610's Quarter Inching valve) makes cutting on uneven ground a real trial. The only really good thing about this combination is that it's easily trailerable

One thing to consider: Woods has a nice system for removing and replacing the blades. I've had a 5' Woods cutter since the mid-70's and I've always been in the habit of removing the blades after every 3rd or 4th use and sharpening them. The cutter seems to load the tractor less with sharp blades. When the blades really get clobbered, it's easy to buy a new set and slap them on.

Not so with the KK; blade removal involves bolts, castellated nuts and cotter pins....and poor access. Sharpening is done by tipping the cutter up on its side or front and using an angle grinder; easy to do with the small cutters.

If you're working rough territory with rocks, saplings and maybe the occasional half buried iron pipe; expect the blades to take a beating. I've resolved to use my bigger tractors & Woods cutters for the rough stuff in the future and save the 7610/KK for high grass, tight spots and trimming close to trees.

Compared to my larger Woods cutters, the KK seems an under achiever. Whether that's because it's KK or because of it's size; I don't know. Part of it may be due to it's low blade tip speed. KK appears to use the same gearbox used on their larger cutters. Combined with the short blades, it would account for the low tip speed....but Woods might be doing the same.
FWIW
Bob
 
   / Does size matter? #6  
I'f it's cheap enough to be a good deal.. and the extre 15? minutes of mowing isn't to worry about.. go for it.

I agree with some of the other psoters.. max thickness of cut material will be based on mower quality.. not size.. I'm pretty sure my HD 10' mower will cut thicker material than my light/medium duty 15' cutter..

Soundguy
 
   / Does size matter? #7  
Since you just want to keep the area kinda tame as opposed to a finished lawn, I'd go with the heavier duty model. When you do wind up with a lawn you might be able to sell or trade it for what you paid....
 
 
Top