Tires How are tires filled?

[yekrut]

I've read quite a few threads related to filling tires for ballast but don't recall the process being mentioned. I think it is probably something I need to do but have a few concerns related to it and wondered how difficult it would be to do it later? Can you do it you self? I'm finalizing a Kubota L39 purchase and would like to know if this absolutelyshould be done at the dealer before it's delivered or can I wait and see if I need it and do it later?

Thanks

 

[RoyJackson]

There are a lot of posts describing how to do this and the tools required. Just do a search and spend a few hours learning more about filling tractor tires then you'll ever want to know.
The attached picture is one of the tools you'll need.

 

[yekrut]

Thanks Roy. Will do.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It took me 2 hours to fill my 4 tires using the tool that Roy posted, a hose and a funnel.


Easy and cheap, good luck.

 

[yekrut]

Thanks

 

[shop_rat45]

What is the best thing to fill them with? I've heard of using salt, but that seems like bad juju for the wheels. Sorry about the noob questions, but my first tractor won't be here until Friday.

 

[MicroPilot]

You want to fill the tires with something that won't freeze if you live in an area that this can happen in. They use typically use calcium chloride. Not only does this prevent freezing it adds weight.

On my tractors tires it took about 40 lbs of CaCl per 50 gallons of water. That's an extra 40 lbs. of weight over just water per tire. This added an additional 457 lbs of ballast per tire.

There are other substances that can be used, some specifically marketed for this purpose, and others that aren't (windshield washer fluid). The drawback to CaCl is that it can be EXTREMELY corrosive to exposed steel. The advantage is it is generally less expnsive than other substances, and widely available.

As far as waiting too get it done, this wouldn't be a problem. In my area there are at least 3 companies that will come to my farm and perform tire maintenance. I would guesstimate the cost somewhere around $75 per tire.

 

[deanhedges]

My dealer says they fill with beet juice.

 

[Slacker]

Petsafe antifreeze, windshield washer fluid, plain water all work well. Keep in mind the freezing potential if your in a cold area.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

My dealer says they fill with beet juice.

Would that same dealer coincidentally SELL beet juice? (Rim Guard)
It ain't cheap. It IS a good alternative, as it doesn't promote rusty rims or create a hazmat situation with a simple tire puncture.

I log a LOT of hours in a typical "tractor year". With those hours comes more likelyhood of flats. With the cost of a tire repair service, it becomes cheaper in the long run to get your own equipment to handle the job. It isn't brain surgery. I've done dozens of my own tires. (3 last week alone....) Total cost involved in getting set up to do them (with long lasting equipment) is typically around $100 to $150, pump, hoses, bleeder valve, and a barrel. Fluid can even be gravity fed. (pump is MUCH faster) Same equipment can be used to remove fluid in the event of a flat. In that situation, you want the speed of a pump. (to save as much fluid as possible/prevent as much of the "spill" as possible)

Any of the multiple choices of "fill" has it's advantages and disadvantages.

Ca/cl is corrosive and will kill grass if spilled. You can get more pounds per gallon with CA/CL than any other option.

Windshield washer fluid is a tad more expensive and not completely without environmental risk.

Beet juice can be EXPENSIVE.

Pure water is risky at best regarding freezing.

I'd highly recommend using tubes. Tubeless tires can be filled, and with precautions, isn't a death knell to your rims (corrosion) but tubes offer more protection.

My personal choice? I use ca/cl. I've seen my share of rotted out rims, but with my own tractors, I've made certain the rims are maintained and protected as much as humanly possible. I've got one tractor that's been with me since 1971, calcium chloride in the rear tires every since, and rims that look ALMOST new. The trick is to clean them up REAL good when you do get a puncture.

Final alternative? Cast iron weights. They're non-corrosive for sure, but not nearly as cheap. Fluid is carried lower, having less of a negative effect on center of gravity of the tractor. (fluid may even provides MORE stability)