Please describe backhoe/subframe setup

[Jay4200]

My Woods 9000 backhoe subframe mount has some wear - the top link mount pin hole is ovalled, and one of pins near the rear axle (that drop in vertically) has flat-spotted where it rubs against the 'hoe bracket. There is a slop in the mount, such that the hoe can rock back and forth maybe 5 degrees on each side if the stablizers aren't put down. All sound normal or not? My experience with subframe-mounted 'hoes is limited to one, and mine is old.

The top link doesn't appear to be normally under stress, and I wonder if I should weld up the top link hole and tighten up the top link. The subframe mount in general seems pretty tight under the tractor - but I don't know how tight the whole shebang should be relative to hanging off the back. Any insight?

Thanks - JayC

 

[john_bud]

There should be no motion of the hoe in the frame while operating. What you describe is usually from not getting it tightened down when attaching.

jb

 

[dfkrug]

Jay, this is why (I am sure) that Woods has been moving away from
their old style subframe that uses a ladder-style pair of beams below
the axle and an enhanced toplink. Their new 4-point style that wraps
around the axle and avoids the toplink is de rigeur now. This is more
like the "serious" subframes you see on purpose-built TLBs. Woods has
also moved away from pins and towards bolted connections, which have
less wiggle. If you have wiggle, you will get oval holes eventually.

Some subframes wiggle or flex a lot (bad), despite being properly
installed. A VERY popular setup I have tried, the BH75 on the L3400, has
lots of flex but not too much wiggle.

But back to your question. Ideally, I would fab up a toplink connection
that uses a different bracket that is bolted with a 1" bolt, rather than
pinned with your Cat 1 pin. Wiggle at this point acts like a jack hammer
to potentially damage the toplink area of your tractor. Bolts eliminate
wiggle.