Hino N209 still is not running after 3 weeks.

[Hans Clahsen]

First of all I like to thank all of you who answered my plea during the last couple of weeks. Many of you said "it takes two people to bleed one". Maybe I should explain my situation. First of all I am close to 80 years old and recently had a bad case of melanoma cut out of my right arm. Almost lost the whole arm. Now am under doctor's orders "No direct exposure to the sun". Well, except in the middle of the night, there just is no time here in SE Arizona where the sun does not shine.

During the past 2 weeks I had a number of promises from people who know how to bleed the lines, but the trouible is, nobody ever shows up when they promise to do. After that they don't return calls or "just have no time". Guess if they can't make $250 an hour they just will not bother.

After I was stood up again this morning at "be there at 7AM", it is now 1 PM and nobody showed up. We had a few clouds around and I ran out while the sun was behind one. So here goes: my tank is plumb full to the neck with fresh fuel. Remember the old fuel drained out due to a cracked hose which started the whole mess in the beginning. So I went from the tank to the filter, thru a long hose to the pump (new electric one). The tank on the Hino is behind the seat, not under the hood. Took off all the hose connections and let the fuel run out. Looked like solid fuel, no bubbles or spitting of air, all the way past the pump and to the connection of the hardlines going to the injectors.

I was warned by one post NOT to let the injector line come off the injector screw. It is very hard to get to the injector screws but I opened the middle one (of 3) several turns. Ran the electric pump several minutes but nothing came out by the injectors. I am afraid I open the injector screws too far which would let air into it. Remember I was warned not to do that. My question is: if I unscrew this too far to where it comes off, will I be able to get it started back on again? As I said, I get a solid stream of fuel right up to where the hardlines start going to the injectors. Why don't I get any fuel on top after loosening the injector screws. Maybe I don't open them far enough. Is that possible? Getting a wrench to the injectors is a pistol of a job.

Thanks Guys, and if anyone wants buy an $8000 tractor for a hamburger, I may have to consider it.

Thanks
Hans

 

[Soundguy]

The fuel to the hardlines from the pump to the injectors is literally drops.. and you won't get any flow from the hard lines by just turning on a priming or lift pump.. the fuel to the hardlines is from the injector hi pressure pump itself.

If you have fuel well up at the hardlines at the pump, then you are close to getting it bleed.

At this point it will be alot of cranking over with the lines cracked at the injectors.. once you see fuel dribble at the injectors.. tighten them down.

yes.. you would be able to get them started if you took them all the way off.. but you don't want to.. you want to trap fuel in that line and just expell air.. then seal it off.

Once you crank over and get fuel a tthe injectors, you are 99.9% there and you just need to get her started. Usually they will fire off from the starter with a good battery or booster battery.. however.. many without pre-heat are so cold natured as to need a pull to start after this long a wait and the fuel starvation earlier.. that's whey it was sugested that you get 2 people.. one person to drive the tractor.. one to drive the tow vehicle. As was said.. towing spinds the engine fast.. you my only need 10' of pull to get her barking...

Know any high school kids willing to help out?

good luck

Soundguy

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks Guys, and if anyone wants buy an $8000 tractor for a hamburger, I may have to consider it.

Thanks
Hans

Hans,

I ditto all the stuff Soundguy suggested. What we have not figured out is if your pump actually pumps fluid. The piping from pump discharge to injectors are normally hard pipes... You can break the pipe at the discharge of the pump and at the inlet to the injector. Have you ever partially losend the connection at the pump discharge , started the pump and visually inspected evidence of pump flow? I remember that your pump as was electric so you do not need engine cranking to run the pump. probably can hard wire it to run or your starter switch in on position causes it to run. I wondered if pump is cavitating (pump impeller or gears are turning and frothing up the fuel rather than pumping it.) and not able to prime itself to pump. Most pump if positive displacement may have some internal by pass feature to keep the pump from damage in case of discharge piping blockage to avoid dead heading the pump.

By the way.. Pumps for injector usually put out a lot of pressure at a little flow. It is quite dangerous. Please be careful and have eye protection.

You've done all right so far.. just need to know if your are pumping. your effort so far should have been enough to bleed out the air.

SoundGuy: can you pull start the tractor if the fuel pump is not driven by engine?... I reckon you can keep the switch to on position causing the pump to run and then tow the tractor.

JC

 

[Soundguy]

His injector pump will be engine driven. it sounds like he has added a lift pump that is electric.. Perhaps a 4psi charge pump to help the tired lift pump in his injector pump front end.

most diesels that have a gravity feed tank don't even need them.. though since his tank is 'way far back'.. i think his lift pump is a good idea..

All he needs is a charged battery, turn on the electric pump, and then open the throttle up, and shift to a gear selection that will actually make the wheels turn and not just drag... get rolling.. then ease the clutch out.. etc.

on the older diesels with no electrics on the pump... you could pull start them with a dead battery... My old ford 5000 for instance. If the fuel stop isn't pulled.. and the engine turns.. she will start.. battery or no battery...

Soundguy

 

[JC-jetro]

His injector pump will be engine driven. it sounds like he has added a lift pump that is electric.. Perhaps a 4psi charge pump to help the tired lift pump in his injector pump front end.

most diesels that have a gravity feed tank don't even need them.. though since his tank is 'way far back'.. i think his lift pump is a good idea..


Soundguy

capisce

JC

 

[nickmech]

Hans, if I was anywhere close to you I would come by and help you for a cold coke. I work at a diesel truck shop and some engines can be a bear to start after runing out of fuel. Most modern truck diesels don't have individual injector fuel lines like yours anymore, but I have worked on plenty that did, but you have got to get more than one line loose or it won't prime. It has to prime air through the injection pump, then to at least 2 injectors, probably all 3. When they are hard to get at guys use offset angle fitting wrenchs or fitting sockets designed for hard to get at places. None of which you probably have. I wouln't pull it, that is what the battery and starter are for. What would I do as a last resort if I was there? I would disconnect the 12v. power to the glow plugs and give it some starting fluid. I can hear everyone sceaming at me, but I'm telling you our shop uses it if you can't get em started. When I'm on the side of the freeway at 2:00 am cause a truck ran out of fuel and I can't get it started, either. I'm not talking about the whole can. Just use a little whiff and see if it fires. If it does try again, see if fuel is purging at the nozzles, close the fittings and see if it will run. You must disconnect power to the glow plugs first. Ofcourse if this is a Chinese tractor than the connecting rods are probably made from recycled beer cans and they could bend like pretzls if you over use the either. Just my humble opinion of what I would do if I was in your boots.