"Bogging" down the engine

[john_bud]

Bob,

I've not run a big blower like that. On smaller ones, I have seen where a person added 90w140 gear oil and when it got to -20f, it sucked the power out of the tractor while doing very little. Not saying that's the root cause.

I too would think that 100 hp would be enough, but checked the woods web site and the SS108 calls for 100-175 PTO HP. So, you were on the bottom edge of the requirements. Plus 14" of snow is a fair amount. Was it also that wet heavy stuff you get coming off the lake? That is harder to blow too~! Around here, it's usually cold as a witches .... uh ... well.... you know, it's usually so cold the snow is light and fluffy. Easy to blow even when you're marginal on supplied power.


npaden,

"Lugging" is when the tractor runs all the way down to 1,000 RPM under the same scenario and I just keep chugging along with the tractor literally crying in pain underneath me.


I like your description! Very graphic.

jb

 

[cp1969]

Bet those puffs were white/blue too......

Nope, they were black. In fact, smoke rings could sometimes be seen.

My definitions:

Bogging: When you apply so much load to the engine that it will die if you don't take immediate action to get rid of that load.

Lugging: Any time when the governor (or operator, on non-governed engines) is giving the engine the maximum amount of fuel it can give, and the engine does not increase rpm, you are lugging the engine. Can occur at ANY rpm.

Bogging is extreme lugging but for a very short time.

 

[SPYDERLK]

John Bud,
It is a 1000RPM attachment...a 9 ft. Woods SS108 as I recall. Two augers and a blower.

I was attempting to clear snow from a 3800' asphalt runway. Snow was about 14" deep. Progress was painfully slow. 0.6 mph. HST was in low range.

Would've thought 105HP could move a 9 ft. blower faster than that. Maybe it wasn't setup/designed right.

Before the winter was over I dropped the blower off the TV140 and just used the tractor w/pusher for clearing the ramp and taxiway turnoffs. Used a dumptruck with a blade for the runway & main taxiway.

Everything was owned by the county and in excellent shape. I may end up with the same assignment this winter and would like to find something that blower is good for....other than postcard pictures of a New Holland throwing snow.
Bob

How far does it throw the snow? If its a hundred feet or more I could maybe believe a correctly designed 9' blower could use 105 PTO HP in 14" snow at 2 or 3 mph. I have an 8HP walk behind that throws 28"W X 14" snow more than 40' as fast as you can comfortably walk behind it. Wet snow it throws further but a little slower. That Woods is using almost 3 times the power per unit width snow and I could clear your driveway almost as fast with 8HP Murray.
Theres gotta be something wrong with it.
larry

 

[Bob_Young]

larry,
The comment "I could clear your driveway almost as fast with 8HP Murray" rang a bell. Thought the same thing while running the thing.

Most of that winter, the wind blew steady and strong from the West. Most mornings there would be drifts, usually not too big, downwind of the snowpiles on the west side of the runway (north-south rwy). I tried using the blower to clear the drifts a few times. With a strong (18 to 20K) west wind, snow thrown from the west side would clear the 75 ft. wide runway...but very little more. So, no, under static conditions the blower would not throw the snow 100ft. There would be enough fallout from the thrower stream that the runway would have to be cleaned up afterward with a blade. Of course, throwing into a 20K wind is a non-starter even with a cab.

The blade on the truck was actually far and away the best on the runway....until the snowpiles grew higher than the top of the blade. Then I had to get creative. It was pretty cold that winter too, so this wasn't heavy wet snow. In fact that 14" snowfall I talked about was rather fluffy.

I think you're right, the blower had a problem.
Bob

 

[Kendrick]

Its all about listening to the engine. I often wonder if people who are raised on automatic transmissions and HST tractors ever learn to listen to the engine.

I do and the first thing I saw with a clutch was my tractor this year. I always listen to my cars engin and ease off the gas just before the transmission is going to shift.

 

[RobJ]

Bogging, lugging, could be interchangeable depending where you are.

I defind bogging as working it hard, hitting some extra load. I've bogged my tractor and stalled it before while BHing. Just didn't raise the mower or hit the clutch fast enough. It'll also bog down a bit if I hit some thick grass or brush.

Lugging I define as I'm in 4th gear, just above and idle, going up a hill. The engine will surge as it tries to keep up. But since my throttle (fuel position inside the injection pump) is set low, the governor will not kick in enough to overcome it. If I give it some more throttle, it'll smooth out.

IMO bogging is ok until the engine is close to stalling, I don't like stalling an engine. Bogging from 2500 to 2000 rpm, no problem except possibly overheating if it's sustained for some time.

Rob

 

[JoeL4330]

To avoid "bogging" set RPM just on "backside" of torque curve ...momentary loss of RPM increases torque ...by design this is (should be) where the tractor achieves the recommended PTO rpm.