4x4 power

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...Clearly this must be with MFWD engaged...</font color=blue>

Yes...

Maybe a clearer example would be using a 42 "Drawbar" HP tractor with MFWD engaged would be equivalent to a 2-WD tractor with 50.4 to 52.5 "Drawbar" HP...

The only problem with my example is compact tractors are not tested for drawbar hp or for that matter not tested at all with Nebraska Tractor Tests... now even the new Ag tractors must be over 100 hp, I believe to conduct a drawbar test in the U.S. {Europe is different}...

 

[BB_TX]

I believe the drawbar hp would be the power available with no loss of traction to the point the engine could pull no more. If you lose traction after applying 20 hp, it doesn't matter if you have 100 hp more available, it won't pull the drawbar any harder.
Think tractor pulls. The tractor pulls the sled until the force of the sled either exceeds the power of the tractor or the tractor losses traction. If the tractor losses traction before bogging down, then it is has hp available that is not useable.
I think dyno test on the PTO are essentially the same. The dyno loads the PTO just to the point of lugging the engine. The hp is measured at that point. If an engine is not straining somewhat, then there is additional hp still available.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...drawbar hp would be the power available with no loss of traction ...</font color=blue>

...down to about 3-5% slippage and one of the key things is..."properly ballasted"...

Remember... Rules of Thumb are just that (approximate guidelines)... nothing is etched in concrete... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[RobertN]

I would go out on a limb here, and say that most folks upgrading from a 2wd tractor to a 4wd tractor are also switching from gas to diesel(most, but not all). I would give the diesel a bit of credit for more grunt power as compared to gas; they are torque monsters.

 

[frank_f15]

paul: i don't think he meant the tractor had more power, IT JUST FELT LIKE IT due to 4 wd. i also only use 4wd when it is needed. but i can relate to his feeling of more power. my old 2 wd (ford 2n) with chains would lose traction the min. u off loaded the weight from the rear end, especially with the fel on, once u got the front end down, and weight was off rear u were done. MY B2400 can go more places and do more things strictly because of 4 wd.

 

[Kelvin]

<font color=blue>I personally don't use 4wd unless I have to, so just trotting around the farmstead, I'm in 2wd. </font color=blue>

I am just the opposite. I use 4wd unless the ground conditions would cause damage (such as on pavement). The reason is that 4wd usage is SAFER, especially on hillsides because of the 4-wheel engine braking; in 2wd a tractor has engine/wheel brakes on the rear wheels only. I've taken some scary "roller coaster-type rides" down some hills when I forgot to put the tractor back in 4wd.

Kelvin

 

[EdKing]

I agree with Kelvin on this one. I leave my tractor in 4wd unless I am an a hard, non-yeilding surface. I think its safer this way.

Ed King

 

[Bird]

Maybe it just depends on the terrain you're working. Looks like you, Ed, and Kelvin live in hilly country and Frank and I live on flat land. I shift to 4WD to pull a plow or boxblade or work dirt with the FEL, but never just running around my place or mowing or tilling; don't need it. But if I go to my brother's place, I leave it in 4WD because of the tank dam, ravines and gullies./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[EdKing]

You got that right about the hills Bird. I would say maybe 10 to 15 of my 93 acres could be considered flat, the rest ranges form moderatly hilly to difficult to walk, let alone operate machinery /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif.

Ed King

 

[BB_TX]

I too leave mine in 2wd when mowing the flat pasture or just running around doing odds and ends. 4wd when mowing the bar ditch or moving dirt. No need in adding the extra wear and strain on the front drive components if not needed.
Haven't lost traction in the pasture yet. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif