Log Splitter plumbing

   / Log Splitter plumbing #1  

daTeacha

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Joined
Oct 27, 2005
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Funk, Ohio
I'm considering the acquisition of a tractor powered splitter, mounted on the 3 point, using the rear hydraulics. My extra hydraulic valve works the grapple double acting cylinder -- it doesn't matter how I reconnect the lines when I take the grapple off, all it does is reverse the relationship between close and open and the valve position. The grapple is plumbed by simple T fittings on the lines to the rear hydraulic quick connects, which is where I plan to power the splitter from, so I presume I can pressurize either of the rear connections, depending on which way I move the tractor valve.

The splitter I'm looking at is from TSC. It includes a conversion kit to switch from an open to closed center valve, if I need to, apparently referring to the valve on the splitter. The directions say I should just tie the tractor valve in the position that permits oil flow.

I'm pretty ignorant about hydraulics, despite what I've read here, so be patient with my questions.

First of all, since my tractor valve is double acting (is that the right term?), does it matter which way I hold it when I want to use the splitter? It seems to me it shouldn't matter.

Secondly, is the splitter valve also double acting? Again, it seems like it must be to retract the wedge from a tough log.

Third, and most important, the splitter manual cautions against connecting things wrong. I don't see how it could be done wrong with a double acting cylinder and valve, but how can I tell which QC is pressurized and which is return without hooking something to them and risking damage to something costly?
 
   / Log Splitter plumbing #2  
If you have a pressure gauge put a connector on it and plug it into the remote. It will show pressure when thevalve switches output to that QC.
larry
 
   / Log Splitter plumbing
  • Thread Starter
#3  
No gauge. :(

Any other ideas?
 
   / Log Splitter plumbing #4  
I have an idea:

But first, it does matter witch way you hook it up. You want the fluid to flow from the remote valves QD to the IN of the logsplitter valve, then from the OUT if the LS valve to the other QD that is not pressurized-this will be your "return"

So, first decide how you will hold the lever on the remote fully open, that can be a bungee, bracket, rope, whatever, just decide on this and make it simple to do.

Next, temporarily bungee open the LS valve in the direction that will make the cylinder extend toward the wedge.

Then hook the hose from the LS valves IN port to a QD on the remote-then start the tractor. Now operate the lever for the remote in the direction you decided in the first step...Did the cylinder on the LS move?
If yes, then you have determined the proper QD to plug the LS valves IN into.
If no, then move the hose to the other QD, and try to move to lever again.

Once you determine the pressurized port with this test, you can then hook the other hose from the LS valves OUT port to the other QD, remove the temporary bungee on the LS valve, start the tractor and then use your "device" that you came up with in step on to hold the remote valve open. You should hear no change in the engine sound-if it does and it bogs down something is wrong. (remember the LS valve is "open center" so the fluid will flow straight through it)

Now the LS should operate in both directions, it will take a few cycles to purge the air out, run your engine at about 1500-2000 RPM for this. Once it's operating well, BE SURE TO CHECK THE FLUID IN THE TRACTOR! You will probably need to add some. Also mark the hoses and QD's so you can connect the LS without thinking next time.

Clear as mud?:D
 
   / Log Splitter plumbing #5  
daTeacha said:
Third, and most important, the splitter manual cautions against connecting things wrong. I don't see how it could be done wrong with a double acting cylinder and valve, but how can I tell which QC is pressurized and which is return without hooking something to them and risking damage to something costly?

Oh it can be done wrong. My brother bought a tractor powered log splitter and wanted to hook it up himself, he didn't need help. As soon as he fired up the tractor, he heard a "Pop." Then I got the phone call. I found his pump grenaded. About $900 later, I had his splitter working.


Instead of putting a bungy cord or something like it to hold a valve open, I have installed a 6-way changeover valve from these guys- Holmbury Products and had very good results with them. Scroll down to "Valves, 6 way changeover"
 
 
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