Tires How to check pressure on loaded tires?

[SPYDERLK]

For agg applications like I use my tractor for.. namely mowing.. I don't varry my speed... to do so means I am lowering my throttle ( changing rpm ).. or clutching to change gear or range... none of which i like to do while mowing... And bouncing around in a cow pasture deffinately wants the 'air' int he tires. If I use dthe tractor for more / slower tilalge.. it may be different.
Soundguy

I thot my fields were ruf, but I have no problem up to about 10mph and
I dont mow that fast. Ill be on air[nitrogen] for the winter tho since I will have to drain the water in about a month. Itll be hard getting used to a 2500# lighter tractor. Ballast implement time.

larry​

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Every since I owned my first tractor some 47 years ago, I've done things one way as far as fluid level/air pressure. I try to fill to a level ALMOST to the top of the rim. I don't fill quite to 12 o:clock. Maybe 11:30? (AM or PM, makes no difference ) When checking psi, I bring the valve stem to 12 o:clock high (GREAT MOVIE!!/TV SHOW by the way) Then I clear the valve by pushing the schraeder valve for a second, then use an air/fluid low psi gauge. The GOOD ones are spring loaded. After you check pressures, you pull the inner stem of the gauge out as far as it'll go, then release it. The spring makes that inner stem retract and blows out any fluid that's made it's way into the gauge. Then I run air pressure relatively low compared to "suggested" poundage usually noted on the tires sidewall. As a for instance, tire psi on my 150 Massey has been between 7 psi to 9 psi for 36 years. On my 2440 Deere, I try to keep psi's around 9 to 10. The 6430 Deere, which has no fluid in the tires, which are radials, I run 11 to 12. These are typical of any tractors I've ever owned. They handle loads with little or no "tire squat", I've never had a tire "de-bead" and never had a tire carcas fail from lower pressures. I get a good ride, good traction, even tire wear, and good tire life. (as evidenced by the fact I just changed tires on the MF150 after 24 years of use on the old tires)

A Firestone AG tire "User guide" I picked up at the National Farm MAchinery Show a few years ago gives input into tractor tire pressures. The "suggested" psi's are for a rated maximum load at a rated maximum speed. Unless you routinely make a practice of running up and down the road, in high gear, with as much weight as the tractor is capable of handling hanging on the rear, maximum rated pressures aren't really required. This is one of those instances where you have to use good judgementand common sense, tempered with a little hands on experience to find that "sweet spot" where you have a pressure that works best.

Your results may vary. I'm sticking with what has worked for me......for a long time.

 

[Bird]

I'm sticking with what has worked for me......for a long time

And the same thing has worked for a LOT of other farmers, too, for a long time, and will probably continue to be the best way to go for many more years into the future.

 

[Racer71]

I just checked mine and found 1 tire was over filled. I jacked the tire off of the ground, added some air and removed the valve stem. After the liquid stopped coming out I replaced the vavle stem and set the air pressure. Good luck with yours.

 

[hayden]

25psi is way too much pressure for ballasted rears. It would be unusual to find a rear implement load situation that would even require 20PSI.
larry

My tractor's owner's manual calls for 20 PSI in the rears which is also the max operating rating for the tire. The tire sidewall rating is for up to 35 PSI, but I think that's the explosion point. At 20 PSI, the tire's carrying capacity is a little over 3000 lbs each. The tractor and backhoe weigh almost 8000 lbs, 1000 lbs of which is fluid in the tires. I think I'm pretty close to the max weight at 20 PSI. Before I pumped them up, they were distinctly bulging and the tractor was very bouncy. I plan to run at 20 PSI and I might go a touch higher if it's required to debounce things.

Now I just need a more reliable way to measure the pressure.

 

[Bird]

Hayden, you may find that the 35 psi rating on the tire itself is the maximum recommended to seat the beat when you put the tire on the wheel. Once seated, you then lower the pressure to the desired operating pressure.

 

[hayden]

Hayden, you may find that the 35 psi rating on the tire itself is the maximum recommended to seat the beat when you put the tire on the wheel. Once seated, you then lower the pressure to the desired operating pressure.

Yes, Bird, I think you are correct. I'm going to shoot for 20 PSI which is what both Kubota and Firestone (or maybe it's goodyear) recommend as the operating pressure.

I picked up a new pressure gauge today and will see how it works over the weekend

 

[Toolguy]

If you have Chloride in your tires and use a "liquid" gauge you should (must IMHO) rinse it with water when you are done checking the tire pressure. Just stick the end that goes on the valve stem in a bucket of water and work the spring loaded plunger back and forth a few times. It is important to get all of the salt out of it. Then take it out of the water and pull and release the plunger a few times to get as much water out as you can. If you leave even just a few drops of chloride in the gauge the liquid will evaporate and leave the salt crystals behind. The gauge is ruined if that happens. Rimquard is another story completely. I find that it is darn near impossible to get that sticky stuff out the guage. It is not nearly as easily dissolved in water as chloride. I have ruined two new gauges that I thought I had rinsed out. Now when I check the pressure on my B3030, I jack it up and rotate the tires to 12:00 o'clock, hit the schrader valve to clear the juice out and then check the pressure. My tires were a little over filled when I got the tractor and even at 12 o'clock some liquid would still escape. I fixed that by rotating the valve to 1 o'clock and pulled the schrader and let the stuff blow out until just air was coming out. It was no more than gallon or so per tire so the weight loss is insignificant compared to the price of a new gauge everytime I want to check the pressure. Another thing I learned about Rimquard is that it foams up inside the tire after using the tractor and will still come out the shcrader valve. Now, I make sure to only check the tire pressure after the tractor has set overnight so the the foam has time to settle down. That seems to work.

As for pressure, it says in my manual and on the tire that 14 psi is max. Since I don't have a backhoe I lowered it down to 12 and it made a noticeable improvement in the ride. I agree with others that the maximum pressure is only needed at maximum load. On the other hand, don't go too low either. I have seen tires with lots of tread still left blow out from running pressures to low. Especially high HP tractors that do heavy tillage work.