TODAYS SEAT TIME

[Sawyer Rob]

Nothing wrong with a belt, there IS something wrong with a "weak" belt...

SR

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I was curious if there was one. Kind of doubt it, but you never know. i learn lots on TBN.

Think ive broke my kk belt once or twice in about 15 yrs. Have replaced a few spindles. I use it on my field now, mow about once a month. Good yr for grass this yr.

 

[daugen]

well I'm not a structural rubber engineer, but.....
I would have thought a 7 foot finishing mower would have more than one drive belt, versus
just one super long one, 5/8 inch wide. Slightly more than half an inch. And the oem was junky plain rubber; for sure I replaced it with
kevlar but still, I'm driving three half inch thick heavy blades with 50 pto hp and I would think a belt should be bigger than 5/8.
The construction of the mower is tank-like; I'm only quibbling with the belt.

And I went out and mowed the roadsides with those razor sharp blades this afternon and boy it looked nice. The joys of having no rocks to hit.
And since I sharpened them yes you could have used them as seriously macho steak knives if you were strong enough...
Without rocks and lawn IED's, I go for maximum sharpness, not durability. I've had the mower two years and I have one 1/8 inch ding in one of the three blades.
I did find however when I was sharpening the blades that the large internal scalp roller under the rear of the deck, can't see it from outside, was frozen in place, would not turn, which
explained some strange scrapes I left in a few spots. Stuck a crowbar under there, bent it back enough to free up the roller, and the show goes on.
Now those two roller brackets were not beefy enough, they should not have bent. A demerit to LP.

I think they intentionally limit the horsepower to the blades/gearbox by providing only so much friction with that single wimpy belt.
That's one way of making sure you don't have gearbox warranty claims, right?
And I did break the oem one when pushing hard through heavy tall grass, Kubota's electronic speed mgmt worked fine, engine never slowed and this mower is rated
to take more than my model's hp by memory. So the belt is the weakest link. And I'm thinking it is by design.
I sold my LP bushhog, didn't think I'd need it any more. big mistake

 

[4570Man]

I've found that keeping the tip square like new blades is more important than actual sharpness. In my experience dull square tips beat razor sharp worn out blades.

 

[cat fever]

I've found that keeping the tip square like new blades is more important than actual sharpness. In my experience dull square tips beat razor sharp worn out blades.

Wow, that last sentence made my brain hurt.

 

[4570Man]

Proper punctuation isn't my strong point. I meant to say blades that still have the original profile ( square tip ) will provide a better cut than worn out blades regardless of the sharpness.

 

[cat fever]

No worries, it's late I have a headache and I still have to work all night.

 

[dragoneggs]

I've found that keeping the tip square like new blades is more important than actual sharpness. In my experience dull square tips beat razor sharp worn out blades.

Wow, that last sentence made my brain hurt.

I gotcha, 45. Cat, I had to read over so yeah extra taxiing of the brain but have to say... my experience too on blade square.

 

[daugen]

ok, let me understand this better please...you mean the very end of the blade you want to remain at 90 degrees and not smoothed over from sharpening?
Like a tooth on a chain saw...
Funny, I always pay extra attention to the end to make sure it's super sharp, figuring it's the first thing that hits.
maybe I should be spending more time trueing the end.
I know the blades are sharp when they make a sound like slicing crisp lettuce.

I also sharpen the reverse side of the edge lightly, like a knife.
All of this is a terrible idea if you mind sharpening blades. I don't...frankly find it very satisfying.
Here the only thing that dulls the blades is the occasional sandy spot I hit, I always pick up sticks first and there
simply are no rocks here. Probably could add mowing pine needles to the dulling part too.
I usually sharpen the blades three times a year on my main lawn mower and twice on the Land Pride.
And I get many years out of a set of blades.
The American dream, full tank of gas, a clean windshield and sharp blades. Oh, no windshield, even better.

I find I am able to run my mowers and tractors at lower rpm and still maintain a nice cut with sharper blades.
My landscaper who helps me mow just runs his JD zturn flat out, letting tip speed beat it off. He has been mowing lawns for twenty years and has
never sharpened a blade. Many folks don't; replacement blades today aren't that expensive if you don't buy oem.
So neither way is right, I just grew up on the farm sharpening mower blades on a stand up grinder and I guess I've never stopped.

I don't sharpen chain saw chains though. For seven bucks, I'd rather have someone else do it,
though I know those automatic sharpening machines really grind the life out of the chains. Done manually with files I bet you could make a chain last
a long time

 

[daugen]

4570, you have the lawn mower of my blade sharpening dreams, an F Kubota. Just lift the lever and the whole mower just flips up in front of you.
Wow that must make blade changing easier.
My older brother bought one of those 4wd F models decades ago and it's still going strong.