Best fence options

[flusher]

Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch

So you want a fence similar to this.

Yep, pretty close. I like to stretch the farm fence between steel posts. Some folks use railroad ties as the verticals to anchor the fence, but I like the all-metal design.

[KennK]

I have 5 acres of land with about 3 acres fenced for horses and a smaller area fenced as a backyard for dogs.

For the horse area we used round wood posts every 24' with two steel t-posts spaced in between each set of round wood posts. Each corner/end has a wider & longer (deeper) round wood post with a regular sized round wood post about 8' from it and then the two connected by a horizontal round wood post about 2/3 of the way up and held in with a large spike on each end.

We tacked/clipped on a 4" high 2"x4" woven (not welded) mesh that is specifically intended for horses so that it yields a little if hit (as opposed to breaking). The mesh is on the inside of the fense posts on the borders, and where it runs through paddocks, we put it on the side toward the most-used paddocks for strength.

A single electric fence wire runs over the top to protect the mess from getting smashed by the horse's rubbing. On the metal t-posts we used the elecric fence insulators that provides a full cap on each post to protect the horses from inury if they come down on them for some reason. We bought insulated wire to run under gates and complete the electric circuit. Our gates are all the tube-type - as opposed to the sheet steel type.

Its been in place for about 15 years now and so far its held up very well. I patterned my fence after years of looking at fencing around Iowa and Illinois, and the wood post with two metal spacer t-posts seems like a pretty common design that has stood the test of time - at least in the midwest.

[richardbro]

Before deciding what to build, check out this really good book on fencing:
Amazon.com: Fences for Pasture & Garden: Gail Damerow: Books

[jmfox]

Fencing seems to be like an art form. The one thing I forgot to mention, is that my fence is in a densely wooded area. No driving along side and straight shots will be the exception.

jmf

[PaulChristenson]

Originally Posted by jmfox

Fencing seems to be like an art form. The one thing I forgot to mention, is that my fence is in a densely wooded area. No driving along side and straight shots will be the exception.

jmf

You will have to modify that...if you can not travel alongside your fence how will you maintain it???....

With a gavaized steel fence, It only takes one falling branch to create an opening...

With an electric wire fence, It only takes heavy weed growth to ground it out...

Fencing is a job you will revisit more than you care to believe...

[jmfox]

Originally Posted by PaulChristenson

Fencing is a job you will revisit more than you care to believe...

Noted. Should I be able to police on the outside or the inside, both?

jmf

[mojoinco]

You may want to consider being able to mow along the fence line (meaning accessible by tractor) to make it easier for the horses to see the fence -- AND to keep them not as interested (meaning nothing worth trying to eat so why spend much time over here). My wife (the house horse expert) points out that you want gates/post joints should be built to discourage hoof capture. When looking at gates (and especially portable panels) look for the kind with hoops at each end. That helps to guide a hoof away from the junction.

In my area a lot of folks have field fence (the graduated woven wire) versus simple square (rectangular) wire for either keeping the smaller dogs in, or keeping the smaller critters out. A fence may also slow down fox, etc.

Smooth wire for horses, barbed for cattle (both often used as a topper, similar to the pics posted). T posts can be purchased in several colors, and sometimes different grades (buy heavier than lighter). Though green is most popular, make it easy on your horse (which will make it easier on you) and use the orange. Also, the yellow electric fence t post tops (as advised earlier). Horses are simple animals -- they do one thing well: run.

I bought several $3-10 tools for the clips used with t posts. They were all variations that had a hole in the side and/or in the end, some with a joint in them, that you inserted the clip into and wrapped it around the t post. I found the simplest one was the best. ~3-4" long, it has a slightly flattened end with a hole or two in it, and the other end of the cylinder (1/4-3/8" diameter) is hollow. This works wonders for installing t post clips, especially on field fence (stranded wire has a lot of room around it for twisting the clip around it, woven/fabric fence has lots going on around it).

As in t post, buy the heavier grade fence wire. You will not regret not having to go out and stretch it as often. Also, I happened across a little wire stretcher the grips one strand of wire at a time. Works great when used with a cheap (old deer hunting) block and tackle. Using your tractor is faster of course.

You have an ASV, I believe that is a skid steer? I would visit the local skid steer dealers and see if anyone rents a hydraulic post hole digger and get 'er done. Also, they (Stanley, others) make a hydraulic t post driver. If you can rent one of those, many your pecs will forgive you (watched a fence builder use one, I am sure he thought the ~$1500 was very well spent).

WEAR HEARING PROTECTION when using a post driver. You will be building arm muscles if you are driving them by hand.

Priefert has a new brand of fence called Diamond P that is very impressive. Diamond P Fence Powder Coated Ranch Rail by Priefert Rodeo & Ranch Equipment

It is wood posts with steel rails that have slip joints in them. Not cheap, but looks very easy (they hog the holes in the posts for angles and made the rails to handle a range of pressure for a curve). Can be ordered in various rail configurations. Talked to them at the Denver Stock Show this January. Would make a great front fence (we are planning on doing this).

[PaulChristenson]

Originally Posted by jmfox

Noted. Should I be able to police on the outside or the inside, both?

jmf

Well if its for horses...you probably want to pull the fenceline back from the property line, so you don't have problems with your neighbors, if your horses start hanging out along the fenceline and put their heads over the fence...

Find the threads that discuss fence mowing equipment...

[jmfox]

Originally Posted by mojoinco

Priefert has a new brand of fence called Diamond P that is very impressive... Talked to them at the Denver Stock Show this January. Would make a great front fence (we are planning on doing this).

I like this option for horses but I'm wondering how well it will work for dogs. Maybe all I will need is protection for the first 3 feet (notice the closed mesh on the right).

jmf

[VAChesterfield]

A fence for both dogs and horses really means woven wire. While the woven wire will work well for the dogs, woven wire is less than ideal for horses. Barbed wire is absolutely a no go unless you like Vet bills.

When using woven wire for horses, PLEASE use only woven wire especially designed for horses. This kind of fencing has very small openings to preclude the horse from putting its hoof through the fence and injuring itself.

Examples are posted on this site Horse Fencing Systems for the Equine Industry - RAMM

I used Ramm's Flex-Fence and love it. Easy to erect and care for, and easy on the horses too.

Like several others who have posted, I like to use round posts for my fencing ... horses are powerful, inquisitive creatures and they will often test a fence. T-Posts are OK, but will need at least one strand of electrified wire to keep the horses away.

If you use wooden posts, I recommend using one 60lb bag of concrete for each line post and two bags for each corner post. Unless your ground is very dry, there is no need to mix the concrete. Just dump the bag into the bottom of the hole, maybe add a bit of water, then fill in with dirt.