plowing - what's wrong?

[POC]

I know some of you guys have way more experience than me. But I plowed some sod area, hadn't had anything done to it for 20+ years, growing fescue, with my dads Ford 600 (abt 25hp) with a 2 bottom with not many problems. I don't know what I'm doing when I'm plowing. I'd think with the loaded tires, which I didn't have, that he wouldn't have any problem.
That's just my take....

[buckeyefarmer]

First time I plowed my garden I used my 20HP MF with a borrowed double plow. It's all I had at the time other than a little Troy bilt tiller. Since then I found it's better to take one of the doubles off so I plow with one. Sometimes I'm only on the back 2 wheels, but that's what brakes are for - steering.

Now with my L3130 I can use a double without knowing it's there.

Also, as someone else mentioned, when I didn't want to hook up the plow for a little bit of plowing, I have turned the dirt over with my loader. It works very well. Helps to take the grass off first so you don't have to chop it up.

Also, an inexpensive cultivator makes a decent tiller once you have plowed once. Once you have a plowed area, you can actually just cultivate it after that to prepare the ground.

[wkpoor]

Plowing is becoming a lost art form. First off you need the right equipment. Often times just getting any old plow to put behind any old tractor doesn't work well. Second the right equipment needs to be set up properly and third the operator needs to know what he or she is doing. When it all comes together its a beautiful thing.
I have have plowed some of the prettiest furrows with an old Farmall Cub and single bottom plow. It was just gliding along effortless. And that tractor only has about 8HP and only weights maybe less than 1500lbs. My 52 CA (26HP) pulls 2 14" bottoms in 3rd gear as easy as pie.
I too have been there and tried the new fangled tractor and plow and it just didn't work. Old tractor with properly fitted plow will do wonders.

[neucam]

Yes, plow has to be adjusted right. If I remember right our TO-20 Ferguson 20+ hp could pull 2-16" plows in old clover ground. It did have draft control but not loaded tires, but it plowed about 7 or 8 inch deep with very little wheel spin in the hard spots. It was a long time ago, but everything was adjusted correctly, and plow was in good shape. Today, people would say that was impossible, but as a 14 year old I know it did the job, as I plowed the 40 acre field. The Ferg was about 2400lbs. 10 x 28 tires half worn out. Any Compact of that size may not have the torque but should be able to put the power to the ground. But if it is 2wd and and a loader installed , I understand the lack of traction. With position control 3PT then you just have to lift the plow a little on tough spots. Basically when the plow gets to the proper depth the plow gets easier to pull rather than skipping on the top of the dirt. Use the put the right wheel on blocks method to get the angles figured out. Good luck, don't give up.

[N80]

You know, its amazing that those old tractors could do that and I don't doubt it for a second. Lots of people have done it.

But just playing around I've noticed that my tractor, a light 45 hp 4wd, has an extremely hard time pulling a 2-14 in 2wd. And the plow, although not a good one, is set up properly. In 4wd is just goes right along rolling over a nice furrow in really had clay. In 2wd its a struggle, often requiring dropping down into first and standing on the throttle and the tires (loaded) would still spin. Same thing with a 7' 20" disk. It almost stopped me cold when I started off with the disk in some deep clay I'd plowed a few weeks before. I'd been mowing and left it in 2wd. What a shock. Put it in 4wd and its off to the races.

So my hats off to those small tractors and experienced plowmen (and probably better designed plows).

[Farmwithjunk]

Originally Posted by N80

You know, its amazing that those old tractors could do that and I don't doubt it for a second. Lots of people have done it.

But just playing around I've noticed that my tractor, a light 45 hp 4wd, has an extremely hard time pulling a 2-14 in 2wd. And the plow, although not a good one, is set up properly. In 4wd is just goes right along rolling over a nice furrow in really had clay. In 2wd its a struggle, often requiring dropping down into first and standing on the throttle and the tires (loaded) would still spin. Same thing with a 7' 20" disk. It almost stopped me cold when I started off with the disk in some deep clay I'd plowed a few weeks before. I'd been mowing and left it in 2wd. What a shock. Put it in 4wd and its off to the races.

So my hats off to those small tractors and experienced plowmen (and probably better designed plows).

Has more to do with the weight distribution/balance of todays tractors. Older tractors tended to have the engine more "centered" in the chassis, where most "modern" compacts have the engine sitting almost directly over the front axle. The weight bias front to rear is different. Todays tractors are designed with the idea of MFWD, and adaquate weight bias to take advantage of a drive axle on the front. Older tractors were longer over-all with more static weight on the rear end. They took advantage of weight transfer to the rear axle and hitch design for their pulling power. New school of thought is to keep the weight on the front end and employ more complicated drive systems. Both have their merits, both have their day and time.

Plow "technology" more or less died in the late 1950's/early 1960's. There are a few high tech plow brands out there now (mostly European brands) but for the most part, any US marketed plows sold beyond the 1960's were mild updates to old school technology.