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#1 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pine Island, MN
Posts: 292
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I changed my hydraulic oil last weekend on my MX5000. It has the mechanical shuttle tranny. The dealer said wait until 100 hours but I couldn't stand it when I hit 65 hours I had to change it. When I drained all 46.5 quarts from the 5 different drains it looked like it was new. $189.00 for oil and filter.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 5,182
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I did it at probably 100 hours on my tractor with the same results. I suppose any bits of manufacturing debris may now be washed out. I can't imagine changing it again in my lifetime.
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Rob **************** John Deere 790, 70 FEL, 7 BH, 513 cutter and other fun stuff |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Spring, TX (Houston)
Posts: 2,874
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L2500 |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Saskatchewan
Posts: 126
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I changed mine at 100 hours like it says in the book. The next one is at 300 hours at which time I will install synthetic and will consider doing oil analysis after that rather than change the oil unless it becomes contaminated in some way. The engine will get synthetic on the next change, 200 hours which will happen shortly after I get home from the project I am on right now. I'm thinking the 5W40 will be a good choice for that.
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Rod. B7610 HST, LA302 FEL, Landpride-BH, 3pt fin mower, tiller, FM2060 flail,BX42 chipper, Farm King 3pt snowblower, PTO generator, homebuilt splitter, counterweight and 3pt carry all. Other stuff, R75/6, Z3, Dodge Dakota, Toyota Tundra. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Funk, Ohio
Posts: 2,336
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I'm there right now. I have 10 gallons of Hy Tran Ultra waiting to be put into the tractor.
I asked the parts guy about the need to change the oil since it looked good and I seemed to remember one of the owners mentioning that all they did was change filters. We went to talk with the service guys. The consensus of opinion was that the additives that prevent corrosion and such tend to wear out, even though the oil looks fine. They also offered anecdotal experience about machines that come in with nice looking oil that hasn't been changed. The machines are not working quite right. A teardown shows sludge built up on interior parts. These are the guys who actually work on the tractors, not the ones selling parts. They know I can get the oil at someplace other than their store. Draw your own conclusion. I elected to buy the oil since it is cheaper than steel.
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Rich 300 hours on the DX29, 850 on the JD 240 and too many to count on the Cadet Funk, Ohio |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Veteran Member
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hyrdaulic oil has no such process to make it dirty. only dirt/dust/soot that enters the system would be from a breather or dispstick/filler opening. i dont understand how you have sludge buildup on internal hydralic parts. engine oil is diffrent story.
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Steve - TC33D 4x4 FEL, dual rear remotes with toys |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Thumb of Michigan
Posts: 71
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I also talked to the parts guy here who is 2nd or third generation in the parts supply business and he comments that after the first hyd fluid change to get out the potential bits from mfg that the hyd fluid will outlast me.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Super Star Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Central florida
Posts: 18,133
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I agree! While I've seen sludge in the hydro system of antique tractors.. I'd say it took 50 years of dust and moisture to slowly develop. if i opened up a newish tractor that had sludge in it.. I'd be concerned!
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#10 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pine Island, MN
Posts: 292
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I wonder if the preasure that gets applied will tend to break down the polymers in hydraulic fluid like they do in engine oil? I guess its a good insurence polocy to just change it as they recomend and be done with it.
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