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#1 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,470
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I've had my hydraulic top link off the tractor for a couple weeks now as I've been working on harrowing - harrow hooks up to draw bar. \
I have connected and disconnected the hydraulic top link to the remotes at least two dozen times with no trouble at all. I have the Parker Pioneer QDs. Today I go to put the HTL on and for the life of me, I cannot get either of the hoses to hook into the QDs????. The male end would go in as far as it normally takes for the spring jacket on the female end to normally pop back and lock it in place.... this time - no go! I pushed and pushed and screwed around with them for about 40 min - finally gave up. I decided that the male ends were the problem as I could hook in my side link hoses into the female QDs for the top link spool no problem. I had two new male ends spare so I replaced the ones on the hoses and voila! they now fit in. I don't quite understand this. I've done this about two dozen times with no problem. I sure as heck don't think that they should wear out from connecting, disconnecting a couple dozen times. How do the rest of you deal with stubborn QDs? Is there some secret Parker mantra that I should be chanting before trying to connect these up? I've decided to rig up a piece of chain to the OEM top link holder so that I can hold the HTL while I am not using it, without needing to take it off..... sorta defeats the purpose of having QDs though. P.S. - As if to shame me, after I had taken the old male ends off, I tried hooking them up to another spool that I have never used and they went in right away!!!! No clue what the heck is going on here.
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Kubota L3400HST+Horst toothbar, 4 Spool Prince valve, CCM TnT, Woods BB60 rotary cutter, Kodiak 7' rake, Walco Meteor 68" snowblower, Walco 7' cultivator, Horst 3pt bale spear, Maybridge 8'8" chain harrow, Woods HB72 box balde |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Venus, TX
Posts: 107
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My guess is the hydraulic top-link was pressurized. I've had that problem with my front-end loader. I forgot to de-pressurize before I disconnected one time, and had a heck of a time getting it reconnected. Finally had to manually "vent" the FEL male disconnects by pressing (quite hard) on the nipple on the end. Then it went right in.
That's just my guess. Could be wrong. Chet. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nelsonville, Ohio
Posts: 538
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Sometimes you have to break a line loose to bleed the pressure.
The nipple push works good, unless it has too much pressure on it. BTI
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**EARTH FIRST----We'll Clear-cut the other planets LATER** *******The poster formerly known as Kiohio****** 740-753-9242 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,470
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Hmm... I suppose this explains why the same male disconnects seem to work fine now
![]() So I guess to de-pressurise it, I should simply turn off the tractor and move the remote lever in all positions - like I do for my FEL? DOH! I'll bet the last time I took the HTL off while the tractor was on and didn't think to depressurize. I'll put those male disconnects away for another day .... they seem to work just fine now that they are off.
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Kubota L3400HST+Horst toothbar, 4 Spool Prince valve, CCM TnT, Woods BB60 rotary cutter, Kodiak 7' rake, Walco Meteor 68" snowblower, Walco 7' cultivator, Horst 3pt bale spear, Maybridge 8'8" chain harrow, Woods HB72 box balde |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sebago, Maine
Posts: 254
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Also de-pressurize the line before trying to push them on. Push the ball against something to release pressure, just sitting in the sun could pressurize the lines enough to be an issue.
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1986 Kubota 4150 w QA 2005 Takeuchi 135 Quick coupler, 3' clean-up bucket, ripper tooth, thumb, digging bucket, scarifying bucket 2005 GMC 5500 10' Boss V 11' Dump 1963 Oshkosh 10' V 11' Wing Local 740 Portland ME My Oshkosh http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ57V-OrHvA www.atgreene.com |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 483
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I think someone on this site showed how they use a copper pipe cap to cover the male end, then rap it witha hammer. I use a thick rag to cover the end and tap the ball with the handle of the hammer to release the pressure.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,475
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Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,470
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One way or the other, I'll find a way to depressurise the HTL. Never thought about the fact that those lines might be under pressure. Makes sense....just didn't figure it out
.Next time I'll put something over it and hit it with a hammer or something.
__________________
Kubota L3400HST+Horst toothbar, 4 Spool Prince valve, CCM TnT, Woods BB60 rotary cutter, Kodiak 7' rake, Walco Meteor 68" snowblower, Walco 7' cultivator, Horst 3pt bale spear, Maybridge 8'8" chain harrow, Woods HB72 box balde |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: East Texas, USA
Posts: 1,170
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It happened to me on the FEL once when I was in too much of a hurry. I used a wooden dowel and tapped it with a hammer. It shot hydraulic fluid all over the place so be careful, wear eye protection.
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