Cutting Roads on Hillsides

[brianidaho]

Hi All,

I have a 20 acre parcel that has a steep hill going down from the largest portion of my property down to a small lake. Going straight down, the slope is 45* plus, no way a tractor is going on it. There is an old skid trail cut down and across the slope, it's somewhat steep (maybe 15% grade), but passable, I run an ATV on it regularily. I want to run the tractor down this trail to do some cleanup down by the lake, but the trail is a bit narrow, with some "slough off" from the cutbank down onto the trail.

OK, so how would you approach doing road improvement on a slope like this? I need to cut into the uphill side slightly to cut the "off camber" grade of the road, and "soften" some water breaks going across the road. I have L3240 with FEL, box blade and rear blade. I'm thinking I need to start from near the bottom of the grade, using the box blade, pulling (driving) down grade, with the FEL as close to the ground as possible to keep weight down. Once a short streach is done, back up a bit further, cutting more while going forward (down). Sound OK?

Only problem is the tractor is at the top to start, gotta get it down in the first place. Not sure how to approach this, maybe a touch of cutting with the FEL in the worst spots, then backdragging to rough level.

Any thoughts? I need insurance before I think too much about this!

Bri

 

[wwalkersd]

I can't offer any help with the road, but if you have an L3240 then you need to update your signature.

Good luck, and be careful!

 

[brianidaho]

I can't offer any help with the road, but if you have an L3240 then you need to update your signature.

Good luck, and be careful!

I should be getting it Thursday! I'll be updating it at that time.

 

[ultrarunner]

I find it easier to work from the top down...

On a particularly tough spot I did a lot of rough work with my backhoe to straighten things out.

Take it slow and if you get tired or sloppy, call it a day and come back in the morning...

 

[dirtworksequip]

Depending on the soil type it may be easier to lower the grade of the road and widen it that way. I see you have a tiller and front blade listed. Do you still have that? If so, you might consider tilling the road and then front blading it to the down hill side and widen it out that way. If you can't till the soil because its too rocky then your FEL and box blade might be your best solution. Either way I think I would start at the top and work my way down. Not sure what your reasoning is for starting at the bottom.(if I read you right) Let GRAVITY be your friend. I'd loosen material on the hillside with the FEL and then BB it to where you need it.

Pics would help.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[john_bud]

Use a back blade oo box blade. Angle so the blade is digging down into the hill side and moving the dirt out from the hill and widening the path. At the bottom, you will need to change the angle to the opposite way and repeat. You will pretty quick want a hydraulic side link!

jb

 

[3RRL]

If I were You I'd start at the top (where your tractor is already) and work my way down. You say you have a boxblade and rear blade? Is your ground fairly soft right now? Some guys think I'm nuts, but I would use the boxblade tilted slightly to the high side and use a "scalloping" technique bulldozing in reverse. Just like a bulldozer blade.
Be advised that your lower drag links need to be reinforced or you will bend them like did. But once I beefed them up, I did all my roads and trails like that.
Couple videos:



Bulldozing in reverse is using the scalloping technique allows you to scallop or take a small cut on the high side and while in mid turn (or scallop motion) keep pushing the dirt over to the low side or even over the edge. This is much how a bulldozer makes it way up or down a side slope. Chances are your trail is slightly tilted so you want to make it not only a little wider, but level also as you go down. That's why you tilt the side links into the direction of the high side slightly. Scalloping from the high side and pushing over to the low side does that. You are creating your own road or trail.

The important thing to remember is that when cutting in reverse, your tires are now riding a smoother, cut portion of Earth. Dragging a boxblade down a bumpy and narrow trail will probably leave a bumpy trail behind. And you are driving over all that crap. Plus it's harder to dump the box where it's needed. In reverse, you can push the dirt right to the other side and make the trail a little wider than it was. I've written a couple threads about it if you're interested. But I have done that also.

So I know I'll get a lot of flack form the guys, but that's my 2 cents...
Rob-

 

[tony123]

I've got about 600' of trail I want to cut into my hillside. I've experimented a few times with my boxblade. Either my ground is too hard or tractor too small.

The project is still a year or two off for me, but I'm going to rent a small track hoe and cut it in with that. What do they rent for? two hundred for a day? I imagine I could do enough work with it in a day that my boxblade could then finish the job off.

 

[brianidaho]

I'll take some pictures, this will end up being a springtime project, the ground is frozen now. Thanks for the input, I look forward to having this done, but there's going to be some pucker factor involved! Not only is the trail cut rather steep, but the hillside is very steep, as in pull yourself up while trying to climb it steep. So no major mistakes are allowed! My comment about starting at the bottom-I meant go to the bottom, back up and work the first 50', then move higher. My motivation, if I get into trouble I'm at the bottom!

I think the idea of starting at the top and using the box as a dozer blade has merit, I am a bit concerned about pointing uphill, it seems like things would be safer with the front pointed downhill. I'll experiment on gentler terrain before tackling this. It's steep enough that even an ATV isn't particularly comfortable, I can't imagine "body english" will do a lot of good on the 'bota.

 

[pat32rf]

If the rocks aren't too bad I always find it easier (faster)to build a sidehill trail from the bottom up, using the FEL, if you can get down to begin with. Even in rock when using the hoe I find its better to work uphill.
When you work from the top down you loose a lot of fill when it just tumbles on down out of reach.
On a steep section when you are working I find its more secure to have the front end above the back so the back wheels are on "finished" ground that is wider with less off-camber. If you loose traction (roll down) you will not be moving down into "trouble" but onto a better surface. When you have to back up to change tactics/angles or just move a bucket of fill its easier to back down than up.
The front axle will pivot a bit, the rear will tilt the tractor quickly.
This is a spot where you will want HST instead of a clutch.
You might find it easier to lower/drive the tractor down the hill on a long rope hooked to a vehicle up top. Use a radio between drivers.