Tires ROOKIE NEEDS MUCH INFO ON STUDDING TIRES

[Fred Deere]

Hey Guys

For full disclosure I posted a thread in the JD specific section asking help to studd my tractor tires. Got some GREAT advice/opinions. One veteran fellow said I should post it in the general section to get more input, so I take his advice.

I have a 2008 John Deere 3005/790 4x4 tractor with R4 INDUSTRIAL TIRES. I have a absurdly steep driveway, I plow down and depending upon temperature etc I often can not get back up.It`s usually just patchy ice that prevents me making it up, I do not want to get chains so I am looking at studding my tires with cheap screws.

I am hearing 3/4 inch hex head self tapping screws might be the way to go. Some have said drill first others have said just screw em in. I am still a bit nervous about messing with the tires, but am going to give it a shot. So I am asking for all opinions please..pros and cons and if anybody feels like being very specific that would be great as well.

Do I drill a hole first? Just screw in the 3/4 inch self tapping screws? Is 3/4 inch the best size?

Thanks

 

[RalphVa]

I bought a set of ag tires for my Gravely when I had it. I just screwed some hex head screws into the outer parts of the lugs on it. Three quarter inch sounds about right. That was about all I could use on the Gravely. You could probably use longer ones on your tractor tires, but I'd think that 3/4" would be long enough to stay in. With the hex head and a driver for your drill, you can put them in easily.

I didn't really get to try these tires out in ice conditions where they would have helped, because not long after I got the tires I bought my JD 4010. With its 4 wheel drive and not very steep driveway, I haven't felt the need for the screws. With its turf tires, I wouldn't be about to use but about 1/2" long ones.

Somewhere on these forums, there's information about people putting screws in motorcycle tires and racing them on ice. Do a search.

Ralph

 

[lambs]

I've not heard of anyone doing this before, but I guess my question would be how are you going to remove the screws when you decide to take them out? Seems to me the heads will be worn down.

But I think if I were going to try it, I wouldn't bother drilling pilot holes. You could try driving one into a tire cleat without a pilot hole and see how it goes.

Good luck.

Just curious, why not order a set of chains?

 

[Toolguy]

Screws in motorcycle tires for ice racing work great. I don't know how well they would work on a tractor, though. Two completely different animals. I think you would have to size the screws according to the size of the machine. A motorcycle spins the tires very fast and keeps the 1/4", extra tall and sharp (Kold Kutter) screw heads clean so they can keep on biting. It also takes about 700 screws to properly set up a pair of tires. A heavy tractor would probably need larger and taller screws to be effective.

If you do want to use screws on your tractor tires I would suggest a lag bolt style with a 1/2" head. Maybe even a washer or two under the screw to get the head up a little more. Two rows of screws on each lug would be best. Go with the longest screws you can without puncturing the tire. Screw thread length equal to the height of the lug should be OK. It will take a LOT of screws to get the desired effect. It will be pretty hard on the tires with all of those holes in the lugs. And it will take a lot of time to put the screws in the tires.

With the cost of the screws, the time it takes to install them and the damage it will do to your tires, I would just go with a good set of chains. But, that's just me. Whatever you do, good luck!

 

[sld]

I second the chains. I would have a hard time putting screws in my tires on purpose.

 

[dirtworksequip]

Put chains on the fronts. They are cheaper and may get you by on your steep drive. Screw the screws, they are only going to cost you time,money,possible flat tire and premature wear of the tread.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[atgreene]

I wouldn't run chains on the front without chains on the rear. When using the loader your fronts are doing a majority of the digging as the rear is having it's weight transferred to the front axle whenever you lift the loader. Add chains to the front and now the front axles is going to grip and may break the front-end driveline.

Ask me how I know. Been there, done that, cost me well over $1000.00 all due to a lack of counter weight and aggresive front chains.

Add rear chains and rear wheel weights if needed.

 

[PlumCrazy814]

What kind of vehicle are you clearing a drive for that a Deere 3005/790 4WD can't navigate?

Maybe a salt or cinder spreader may be a better investment than screws through tires.

 

[atgreene]

What kind of vehicle are you clearing a drive for that a Deere 3005/790 4WD can't navigate?

Maybe a salt or cinder spreader may be a better investment than screws through tires.

I do lots of driveways around here that my 50 hp Kubota will not go up w/o chains, and even with chains it can be a fun ride sometimes.

 

[Fred Deere]

Thanks to all for responding, I am glad I took the advice of the veteran on the other thread that said post to general forum for more advice. Because I think I have decided against possibly ruining my brand new tires.

Why no chains?? Because I am cheap, but it sounds like it is the only sensible thing to do, so I am re thinking it.

Here is my driveway just to give you the big picture. The picture does not really do it justice, I have people that are afraid to come up my driveway in the summer time. I come up in my Ford Ranger4x4 when the temperature is not making it pure ice, nothing like sliding back down after you dont make it up all the way...the key is you do not brake at all

here`s the picture Merry Christmas to all