Moving a Bridgeport Mill with my TN (pics)

[Workstead]

NightshiftHD,

Another way to get it into the cellar might be to remove the stairs altogether.

If the floor goes all the way to the wall under the stairs, and if it isn't a major deconstruction job to remove the treads to get to the stringers, you would have a straight drop to the floor where you could have a dolly waiting.

Clem

 

[NightshiftHD]

Wouldn't surprise me if it was. Do you mind me asking what you paid for it? I was getting ready to spend a couple of three bills on one of these.

Paid US$140 for it, plus about $20 in shipping. Guy I bought it from was Tim ... very nice fellow to deal with. Bill

 

[NightshiftHD]

NightshiftHD,

Another way to get it into the cellar might be to remove the stairs altogether.

If the floor goes all the way to the wall under the stairs, and if it isn't a major deconstruction job to remove the treads to get to the stringers, you would have a straight drop to the floor where you could have a dolly waiting.

Clem

Clem, thanks for the idea. I thought of that also, but in looking at the stairs, the treads are nailed to the stringers ... I was hoping they were screwed. I've only got myself to thank for that as I was the one that built them I remember lagging the stringers to the concrete walls on each side and then adding the risers and finally the treads. In hindsight, if I would have screwed the risers and treads instead of nailing, it would be an excellent way to lower (or raise) stuff in and out. I also considered tearing out the storage area I built over the stairs and just putting up a (removable) railing on the garage floor along the stairwell so I could rig up some kind of overhead beam with chainfalls on a tripod. But I don't really want to lose that storage area.

Now that you've got me thinking again about removing the strair treads/risers, I may consider this more seriously. If I smash out the bottom 2 or 3 treads to give me enough room to swing a big hammer under the remaining ones, I should be able to remove them and later screw them back down. There is a 12" I-beam that runs across the middle of the garage to support the bricks above on the 2nd floor which is currently covered in with drywall. That 6" square beige post on the left side of the stairs at the top supports it for reference. I may knock the drywall off that section of the I-beam so I can hang my chainfalls there as it's about 2' in from the front edge of the stairwell hole. And yes ... the entire hole has a concrete floor under it as well as poured concrete walls. I had them build this stairwell when I was building my house. I am beginning to think this might be the best (safest) solution to my challenge. Bill

 

[bones1]

How about nailing down 2x10's on your stairs, lying the mill down at the top of the ramp you just made,take engine crane downstairs, open your garage door and position a truck or tractor with a winch backed up to your garage and winch it down the steps with a long cable and use crane to upright it in the basement etc. Thats how I would do it. Let the winch on the tractor/truck hold it from sliding . Good Luck.

 

[Workstead]

...
Now that you've got me thinking again about removing the strair reads/risers, I may consider this more seriously. If I smash out the bottom 2 or 3 treads to give me enough room to swing a big hammer under the remaining ones, I should be able to remove them and later screw them back down.... Bill

Bill,

I have a nail puller that is kind of like pliers that you wack into the board and the "pinchers" are driven under the head of the nail. Then you pull back on it and the nail is levered out. That way you access from the top and you won't damage the boards too much. A carpenter friend may have one you could borrow.

Isn't hind sight wonderful thinking what could have been done back then?

Maybe you could put in a little elevator now so when you are old you won't have to go up and down stairs. The kids would love that! And you could easily move heavy machines up and down to/from the shop.

Clem

 

[sandman2234]

If he nailed two by tens or similar to the steps, and built a wedge/angle shaped cart so that the top was flat/horizontal and the bottom where the rollers were running on the two by tens was at the angle of the staircase, he wouldn't need to lay the mill down on it's side which could be a problem if he accidently dropped it during the layover. If your concerned about it being top heavy, bolt it to the cart from under the top. I would think 8 shopping cart wheels would hold the weight, and the two by tens would be plenty wide enough for that tracking. Use a car/tractor/truck or comalong to lower the cart via a cable or chain (hooked to the cart, not attached to the mill). If the cable isn't pulling straight on the cart, use a anchor or pivot point to deflect it to allow it to pull straight so the cart goes down the staircase at least semi straight. Bumpers on the edges of the cart might protect the walls from damage and keep the cart on the straight and narrow. A search for a stairlift or cargo lift might explain this a little bit better.
David from jax