Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter

   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #1  

bbirder

Bronze Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
85
Location
South Louisiana
Tractor
Kubota M4900SU
Can any of you tell me the orientation of the shaft that spins around above the tailwheel on your brushcutter. I think it should be straight up and down or perpendicular to the ground to operate correctly. Mine is leaning forward I guess about 20 degrees and I have always had problems with it not spinning and just plowing ground. I really believe that I was sold the cutter with the wrong mounting bracket on it. Any thoughts?
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #2  
Probably 99% of them I've ever been around had a slight "lean" to them when in a "normal" mowing height. The lower the rear of the mower deck, the more lean you'll see. That's normal and not a problem.
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #3  
Items that can cause the problem you mention:
Not greasing the tail wheel shaft. (for the fork)
The shaft on the fork or the bushing it is in are bent.
Not enough weight on the tail wheel.
Dirt is too soft or loose.

You should be able to turn that wheel very easy when lifted. I try to grease wheels forks with mowers lifted and slowly rotate them when doing so. Both the fork and the wheels them self.
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I keep it greased well and it spins easily, but when down it won't turn with the cutter. To me it seems like the shaft should be perpendicular because the yoke at the bottom holding the wheel is attached at about a 45 degree angle back. This would allow it to swivel, but mine lays down even more and the swivel won't rotate when contacting the ground. I'm guessing on the angles as I am not at home right now. Will have to check it more closely later.
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #5  
It spins easily? You probably mean when you raise the cutter you can spin it easily by hand. That's how my wheel acted, but it would not swivel when under a load. My issue was caused by a partially dry spindle. When I greased it, I would get lots of grease spewing out the top of the spindle. I finally pulled the top pin, dropped the spindle, and found the bottom half was caked with dried grease and dirt. After a good clean up with solvent, I reassembled it and regreased. This time grease came out both ends and the wheel now swivels even when under a load. I do keep it greased more often too, and make sure I see grease come out both ends each time. I usually grease it when I have the mower raised so I can swivel the wheel to coat the full shaft.
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #6  
You say yours is leaning forward?
LOL, at first I was picturing the wheel leaning forward and was gonna say the wheel should be trailing, but I know what you mean. Like the other guys said already, there is generally an angle on the shaft depending how high or low you have the rear wheel. That's because of the pivot point on the deck. I'm with you though, thinking that the spindle would be better suited straight up and down so the wheel can pivot more easily in the direction of travel.

I modified my rear wheel to make them duals and also hydraulic.
When I did that, I made it so the spindle(s) would always be straight up and down (via linkage) whether raised way up or lowered down. And either going forward or backwards. I just thought it would work better that way. They are quick attach too, so I use them as guage wheels on other implements. So far it's worked out very good as the wheels always turn and go into the direction of travel.
Here's a couple pics, up and down, but my point is I do agree with you.

 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #7  
Too much caster angle causes your symptioms just as well as shaft binding. I had to modify two Woods cutters to bring the yoke shaft more vertical because they plowed so badly.
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #8  
Too much caster angle causes your symptioms just as well as shaft binding. I had to modify two Woods cutters to bring the yoke shaft more vertical because they plowed so badly.


I Have the same Problem with mine & Its Well Greased & no Wear or Bends , its been that way since i bought it PP Design IMO . Do You have any Pics of Your Modifications Rick , Thanks :D


Very Impresive Fix to Your Problem 3RRL , Thanks for Showing the pics, Bob
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks to all for your comments. RickB and Cowboy357 Glad to know that I am not the only one with the problem. I really think it is a design problem with Woods. the dealer changed the whole assy for me when new, but the new assy did the same thing. I tried contacting Woods, but they would not respond to me! Last Woods implement I will ever buy. I guess my best bet is to get out torch and cracker box and modify it. It needs some cajun engineering!
 
   / Tailwheel shaft on brushcutter #10  
I Have the same Problem with mine & Its Well Greased & no Wear or Bends , its been that way since i bought it PP Design IMO . Do You have any Pics of Your Modifications Rick , Thanks :D


Very Impresive Fix to Your Problem 3RRL , Thanks for Showing the pics, Bob


I modified customer machines, and they are not close by for photos.
I think I can describe the fix. With the cutter blocked up off the ground safely and level, unbolt the two front bolts fastening the tailwheel support wishbone to the cutter's deck supports. Allow the tailwheel to drop so the yoke shaft is vertical, or very close to it. Fit a piece of 1/4" thick steel a minimum of 2" wide against the deck supports and cut to length even with the top of the wishbone (on each side). Drill for the required bolt in the wishbone and weld the flat stock to the deck support. Bolt to the wishbone using the original bolt in the original hole in the wishbone. As part of the welding, rosette the hole in the deck support closed, providing additional weld area to the new flatstock. As I recall, raising the front of the wishbone about 3" cured the problem.
 
 
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