FEL lifting capacity

[RWolf]

Based on another thread currently going on it brought up a question and I didn't want to hijack that thread.

A simple question. Do you need to add ballast to perform a full load lift with your FEL? I.e. if your FEL is rated at 1000lbs do you need ballast of any kind to lift the full load?

Also if you don't mind specify brand, model and lift capacity of your FEL.

[Thomas]

I like little ballast w/full load for travel up/down different grades,also traction trying to get full load.

Don't have specs handy on loader for my L2800.

[SPYDERLK]

If you are going to move at all with a full capacity load you will need ballast.
larry

[rexcramer]

I think my BX is rated for 700# lift, and with a back blade as my ballast I can tell you its not enough. I will definitely be filling my rear tires at a minimum, and maybe add a little weight to my back blade also.

With no rear attachment on the back you should be VERY careful doing anything with the loader. Even my full size 580 Case uses a rear ballast on models without a backhoe attachment

[jpav]

I've always had either the backhoe on or the box blade. Box is around 600lbs and backhoe about twice that. Think my tractor is rated for lifting under 1000lbs up front, so it feels pretty safe.

Now, a few days ago, I did pinch such a large stump and rootball in the backhow that the front tires were hardly on the ground. I added all the root parts I could find, and that put the tires back in firm enough contact with the ground. So, what I'm saying basically, is I needed front ballast, but not in the back yet.

HTH,
Josh

[rexcramer]

I've always had either the backhoe on or the box blade. Box is around 600lbs and backhoe about twice that. Think my tractor is rated for lifting under 1000lbs up front, so it feels pretty safe.

Now, a few days ago, I did pinch such a large stump and rootball in the backhow that the front tires were hardly on the ground. I added all the root parts I could find, and that put the tires back in firm enough contact with the ground. So, what I'm saying basically, is I needed front ballast, but not in the back yet.

HTH,
Josh

Basically any time you do any kind of real digging with the backhoe just get a bucket of dirt in the FEL and with will help backhoe performance all around. On my 580 Case all models with extendahoes HAVE to have additional iron ballast on the front of the frame in addition to the loader. A couple thousand pounds of sand makes a BIG difference when ripping roots, digging clay, etc.

[RalphVa]

My 4010's loader will lift 1/3 yard of gravel chock full. It has loaded rear tires, and it needs at least about 300# on the 3ph to not be tippy. One STILL must drive VERY SLOWLY and not lift that load very high while travelling. All it takes is for a tire to drop into a hole or a tire to go over a hump to cause it to tip over on 3 wheels. Gotta always be prepared to drop the loader and/or 3ph load very faster or rear back on the seat opposite to where it wants to tip (but with seat belt on).

I hauled 22 tons of gravel with it to gravel a tractor path that goes across the hill before plunging down 100 feet to the creek overflow area below.

Put 1/3 yard in the loader and 1/3 or more yard in a carryall in the back. Now that is a nice distribution. Very stable. STILL I don't go very fast with this load.

Ralph
The naked gardener
God's original intent

[RWolf]

Good info, I've generally not needed any ballast with a full load. Seems the bypass will cut out when I reach my maximum. About the only time I've needed any ballast and even then I don't think it helped much is when I get a load off-center then the tractor will start acting squirrelly. At that point I reload and center my lift. Maybe loaded tires would help and I'll need to try it out.

[Gittyup]

I have a CK25 with loaded tires, total weight around 4400 lbs with the loader and no back implement or other weights. My bucket is 1/3 of a yard. It is very stable when loading the bucket with dirt or gravel. However, when I put the the toothbar on and fill the bucket with basketball sized granite rip-rap way out on the the teeth, the rear end would start to get a little light. I added a rear scraper blade and it balanced it out better. Bottom line is that you need rear ballast of some sort.

[LD1]

Tractor- l3400 loaded R-1's @~500lbs
loader-la463
Lift specs
@pins 1153 lbs
@bucket center ~1050 lbs
@bucket edge 853 lbs

With 12 cement blocks in bucket @ 50lbs each = 600lbs at bucket center, over 400lbs under spec and with loaded rears and no implement, cant move in 2wd and hit the brakes a little too fast, rears bounce up. No way would I lift it to full heigh even 450lbs under spec and loaded rears. But kubotas are know to be very light machines.

Even with a 6 foot backblade @ about 250lbs or my finish mower @ about 350lbs, the loader has enough power, if you get caught under a root or whatever, to lift both rears in the air. But I think that is the equivellent to lifting more than the spec. With the mower on I was able to move 850lb I-beams that were centered about 6" beyond the bucket edge (on forks) and felt very stable.

Whenever I am doing dirt work, the only way I can get enough weight that the loader cant over power is with the 5' bushhog @ 500lbs and sticking way back. With it on, the hydraulics will stall/go into bypass, before the rears lift.