Remove water to add Rimguard?

[Gary Fowler]

Some of you keep mentioning to remove the valve core. You should be unscrewing the valve stem at the knurled portion that removes the entire shraeder valve assembly. This gives you a 3/8" pipe connection or maybe larger. It may not be evident that there is a threaded joint, but I have never seen a tractor tire that didnt have this connection. If it has it, the break point will be knurled. Just take some pliers and gently twist (lefty loosey) and the piece should unscrew. This then allows you to directly attach the water fill hose adapter to this portion without use of any of the adapters. This may not hold true for some of the SCUT and garden tractor tires, but if the valve stem doesnt look like your common car or truck valve stem and is about 1/2" in diameter where it enters the tire rim, then it is likely the 2 piece variety. By removing this, it takes far less time.

 

[whistlepig]

It cost me $185.00 to have my two 12.4-16 tires filled with Rimguard by the dealer. About 200# each tire. For that price it's not worth my time to do it myself.

 

[deere5105]

Rimgaurd is not used here if so very little. Mostly water and some antifreeze as freezing is not a major issue.

Local dealership has a portable air tank with a plug on it they fill with antifreeze and let the air push the antifreeze into the tire.

However I have used a funnel and let gravity fill mine of course before putting water in the tires and weight supported as below.

If you will jack up the rear tire you are filling and get all weight off of and them remove the core of the valve stem helps. In doing so my normal house water pressure is more than enough to fill the tire.



Now the question of tires spinning with ground engagement equipment: are you sure it is due to not enough weight? Not sure the specs but when weighted correctly they recommend a certain percentage of tire slip with disk or such. Yes you can get too much weight on a tractor which some here can do much better job telling of the excess wear to clutch and such it causes.

What type of tires do you have, loader tread or field tread. If the loader design it is my opinion you will never solve tire slippage with a disk, they just are not made for dirt.

Having said all that on my field tractor I run water/antifreeze filled rear tires with Kubota's cast iron rims and and about 300 lbs on front end weight. When I bought it had rims filled before it was delivered but the front weights helped to stabilize the front end.

I do have the R1 Ag tires. They are 14.9-28 and are loaded with water. I think the weight is the factor I am missing. I run both a 6' and 8' disc today preparing food plots. We had a heavy rain yesterday and in places the plots were very wet. In the wet areas I would have to pick up the disc to maintain forward momentum. It seemed like when picking up the 8' disc my traction was much better than with the 6'. My dealer has agreed to allow me to trade in my front weights and apply the credit toward rear wheel weights. I recently added a loader and no longer need the front weights. I am strongly considering adding two 110 lbs weights to each of the rear wheels. The ballast guide in my loader manual specifies three different configurations to obtain their recommended ballast. One option recommends 660 lbs per rear wheel and 1600 lbs or so on the 3pt hitch. By adding the two wheel weights per tire and the water loading, I will meet the recommended wheel ballast. I can get by with that and an implement on the 3pt. Sound about right?