levelling harrow

[herd]

I am new to tractors and equipment but I am learning. I tell people (the truth), I was raised around mules and not tractors, so bear with me. I bought a 20x16 6' Leinbach HD harrow and like it a lot but have a problem with the deep furrows it leaves. Someone told me that I could install something on the rear to fill in these furrows. Thing is, I don't know what I need nor how to install it.

Any ideas would be appreciated, I just need to know what to buy and how to install. My son's friend is a good welder so I can get it welded if need be. tks.

 

[bp fick]

Well, if the soil is soft, you can literally make a drag out of a 2x4 and section of cyclone fence. It works well. A hunk of chain to use as a tow chain. Cheap and easy.

 

[deere755]

I mounted a drag harrow on the back of mine. Works great. I would make it 2 foot bigger then your disk harrow is.

 

[HCJ]

I made a drag harrow out of three pieces of 4" x 6" x 7' angle iron from the scrap yard (any heavy steel beams would work) These are linked in parallel about 3' apart with chain attached to eye bolts placed in each piece of angle. I added more chain to "weave" sort of a web or net pattern between the pieces of angle, and attached a chain harness on the front to hook it up to a vehicle. I usually link all of this to the trailer hitch (or tractor draw bar) with a short piece of nylon webbing that acts like a shock absorber. I usually pull it with my truck over the field after using the disc harrow to level it, because it's faster and more comfortable than pulling it with a tractor. That way, one person can disc and another can level to speed things up. I also use it to cover seed by pulling it very fast so it just skims over the soil covering the seed lightly. Works unbelievable well, as our food plots are perfectly level with no ruts. Also smooths out the roads. You could attach it to the back of the harrow, but it just complicates turning and manuevering, so I just pull it with a truck. It is bomb proof as I have towed it for years and many miles round our property, and it costs very little. All you need is angle iron , 50 or 60 feet of chain, a dozen chain link connectors, some heavy duty eye bolts, and a drill press to drill 1/2 holes in the angle. A 6' nylon strap and clevis from Northern to hook up. This thing is pretty heavy and will move some dirt fast. It can be made in an hour or so.

 

[herd]

HCJ, this sounds interesting, would you by chance have a picture of this rig? tks for yours and all replies.

 

[HCJtractor]

HCJ, this sounds interesting, would you by chance have a picture of this rig? tks for yours and all replies.

I plan to go down this weekend and I will take some pictures and post them or e-mail them to you. What I like about mine vs. using chain link fence or other devices is that it is really strong and unbreakable. I have also read about dragging clusters of old tires chained together, but have never tried that. You could also use an old piece of railroad iron or even a heavy log. But my angle will actually "bite" the soil like a blade to smooth and level. Its cheap and easy to build, especially if you can find scrap steel. My scrap yard charges .25 a pound.

 

[HCJtractor]

HCJ, this sounds interesting, would you by chance have a picture of this rig? tks for yours and all replies.

 

[Dave5264]

You may want to check around locally (old Farms, Tractor dealers etc) to see if you can find any old DIAMOND Drag Harrow's. I managed to get a couple of sections this year (for Free). They work well for smoothing out, though you may need to add some weigt to them (i attach a couple of concrete blocks to mine).

 

[dirt clod]

A drag behind is nice to break up clumps. You have something out of adjustment though. Set your front set of disks one adjustment more aggressive than the rears and set your top link so the front digs a little deeper. Also when you make one pass there is a rut from the outer disc cutting on your next pass your discing should start with outer discs riding in this rut.