log spliter doesnt start

[sal64]

hello all i have bean having a prob with my log splitter 12 ton 5 hp briggs 25yrs old in the summer it starts no prob about 5 -10 pulls in winter about 50 pulls, i checked spark cleaned fuel system spray eather still doesnt start to easy in winter acts like choke doent work, but evenually it starts and runs good then i can shut off for 1 hour or more and starts right up. i did change the hydro 2 years ago,next i was going to try to disconect the lovejoy connection to the hydro pump maby its cold? i did try to put some heat no luck. i hate to buy a new motor when it works great when i finaly get it going. any help would be much apriciated tu.

 

[bullsram]

I had the same problem with mine. I would suggest checking the compression in the motor. Thats what was wrong with mine , didnt have enough compression to start it... Bull

 

[Scotty370]

I agree w/bullsram! You only have 3 components with small engines: Spark, Fuel, and compression! Might have a bad head gasket. Also, I use Mobil-1, or other synthetic in small engines, especially if your going to start them in cold weather! Makes them so much easier to 'roll-over' ~Scotty

 

[kebo]

I was going to suggest the same thing, 25 years is a long time on the same set of rings!! That old saying that a gas motor need three things to crank is 99% accurate. It needs gas, air, a spark AND decent compression to crank. In the cold, the metal contracts which will increase the gap between the rings and the cylinder wall just a tiny bit. Probably enough to make the compression drop enough to where it just won't crank. I'm guessing when you tried warming it up, you may not have let it warm up enough??

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree with others, it is probably just worn out. I would also go to a dealer with your make, model, and serial # info from the engine and ask them what spark plug it takes. I had a snow thrower that was that way and found out I had the wrong spark plug in it. Not sure if it was me doing a wrong cross over in the plug book, a wrong plug in a box, or the parts guy but had a plug that was too cold in it. Put the right plug in and she starts first or second pull.

Chris

 

[Treemonkey1000]

You say you cleaned the fuel system. Does that include tearing apart the carb? I have a Generator with a Tecumseh on it. I found small grey material in the bottom of the float bowl. Looking at their website it said that is aluminum that has dissolved from the carb. It had really gunked up the carb making it do the exact same thing you described. I would have to prime it with gas or ether to get it to start. Another thing to look at is the gasket between the carb and cylinder head. If it dries up and causes problems.......

 

[tawilson]

Stick a new coil on it.

 

[20 20]

If you got good spark and fuel then it should fire right up. When you cleaned the "fuel system" did you change lines and do a carb kit? I have had engines with old lines that have real tiny pin holes, seem fine, that were shot. Carb kits can do a world of wonder also. I agree with running a compression test. If your engine is shot it's cheaper to buy new then to rebuild{from what I've seen}. If you have to go the new route check Harbor Freight there liitle engines are not a bad deal{have a couple now}

 

[tawilson]

He said he had a spark and he tried ether. A weak spark from a weak coil can do what he's describing, which is why I suggested it. If it's running good when it does start, doesn't use or burn oil, I'd try this $15 possible fix. It worked on mine.

 

[Travelover]

If you squirt some 30# oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, it will temporarily seal the rings. This is a simple test if you don't have a compression gauge.