Rustaholic
New member
That is not a link and you did not answer my question,,,,
Do you KNOW it works as good as this one we can build from scrap and a cheap Radio Shack diode?
A Battery Rejuvenator
- Thread starter ETpilot
- Start date
That is not a link and you did not answer my question,,,,
Do you KNOW it works as good as this one we can build from scrap and a cheap Radio Shack diode?
caffel
New member
How long does the process usually take to get the battery up to normal voltage ? (12.5 v on my mind)
Rustaholic
New member
It really does depend on the size and condition of the battery.
I have a totally dead one I need to hobble out to my engine shed and put on my desulfator.
My rule for the dead ones is after the lights are up to their normal brightness I go one more day and check the battery.
Rustaholic
New member
It really does depend on the size and condition of the battery.
I have a totally dead one I need to hobble out to my engine shed and put on my desulfator.
My rule for the dead ones is after the lights are up to their normal brightness I go one more day and check the battery.
Illini22
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Oh, yes it works much, much better��! Even works outside in the rain and snow. Has a little whine to it when u put your ear close. Very cheap too, I spent no time, gas purchasing it. I actually got payed to buy it as I was working when I clicked on amazon.
patrick_g
Elite Member
I bought a few charger/de-sulphater units from Northern tool after receiving some very nice discount coupons in the mail. I bought three of the smaller units and one larger (8 or 9 amp, I don't recall) They are fully automatic multi stage charger maintainers with built in de-sulphating (de-sulfating?) whatever... I have a diesel pickup with two 120 AH starting batts and 330 AH of "house batts" for the camper. It is nice to have the batts maintained without fear of "boiling" off electrolyte or sulfating them. Vehicle is always ready to crank right up regardless of the temps winter or summer. I use the smallerl units on various other batts like my old "beater" 4x4 Dakota I use strictly on the ranch, the tractor, and the batts for breakaway brakes on my trailers.
Build or buy... avoiding or reversing sulfation is a good thing and saves $ on batts.
Build or buy... avoiding or reversing sulfation is a good thing and saves $ on batts.
skyhook
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I haven't gone through this whole thread, but,,
adding a diode will only clip the top or bottom half of the AC cycle
(depending on which way it's installed).
I would assume there's still 120 volts of now (DC) voltage, what do think....
J_J
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I believe it will be pulsating DC, not sure about the voltage.
Seems like adding a capacitor will increase the voltage.
Excerpt:
If one adds a capacitor to filter the output, the PIV doubles to 24 volts, because the capacitor now holds the output at +12 volts while the voltage on the anode of the diode swings to -12 volts
Seems like adding a capacitor will increase the voltage.
Excerpt:
If one adds a capacitor to filter the output, the PIV doubles to 24 volts, because the capacitor now holds the output at +12 volts while the voltage on the anode of the diode swings to -12 volts
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Sodo
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Batteries are designed with a very specific amount of space below to accumulate the sulfation. Mainly, two things happen to end the life of a battery.
1) Sulfation on the plates (can be reversed somewhat (as is the subject of this thread).
2) When sulfation dropping off the plates piles up and contacts the lead plates, the cell is shorted and the battery is done. The difference between a 56 month and 84 month battery is mainly the 'height' of the plates above the bottom of the battery case, and the distance that the sulfation 'pile' has to climb, to contact and thus fail the cell. On the 84 month it takes longer for the sulfate pile to reach and thus short out the cell. It is a timed chemical reaction, a feat of chemical engineering. The plates have to be the same, to support the CCA. It's the space below that creates the normal life expectancy. When you pay more, you get more space below the plates.
Is there a safe way to remove clean out the sulfate? That would be a good way. You can't overturn a battery and dump it out because the sulfates could lodge between the plates and short it out permanently. It seems like a solution could be found with an aftermarket battery case.
It's worthwhile to ask yourself sometimes why there are no solutions available to the consumer for such a simple problem. It's easy in todays world for huge battery monopolies to eliminate such products. It takes just pennies on their dollar to support a lawsuit with regards to a safety problem (a real or a 'manufactured' problem), or offer to buy the aftermarket battery case company and scuttle it. Or support a lawsuit then offer to buy the remains of the harassed company. Or pay lobbyists to legislate that reclaimed batteries are not DOT approved, not allowed on the highway.
Lots of ways for big money to win big over consumers. Many voters support lobbyists even when they are are in the crosshairs!
This thread mostly regards batteries that can be rejuvenated due to reducing sulfation that's still on the plates, and has not yet piled up on the bottom (a different problem). Batteries that don't see much action don't have a lot of sulfation piled up on the bottom and have a chance of rejuvenation.
patrick_g
Elite Member
Except for the negligible forward voltage drop of the diode the output wave form of a halfwave rectified 60Hz sine wave is every other half cycle (pos or neg depending on direction diode is inserted.) With a FWB (full wave bridge) you would get all the half cycles, either both pos or both neg, again depending on which way the FWB was installed.
When considering the current or the watts dissipated by light bulbs consider that the tungsten filaments are not linear devices, i.e. their resistance is temperature dependent and goes up with temp. Running a bulb at half voltage runs it cooler and it has less resistance. Oh by the way... 120 volts AC is the nominal value and is RMS (Root Mean Square) and is the AC voltage required to do the same heating of a resister that a 120 volt DC would cause. The actual peaks of the 120 volt AC is 1.414 times 120 or 170 volts. In the case of the light bulb the filament temperature is essentially the average temperature as the filament has too much thermal mass to follow the voltage as it changes mid cycle.
If that doesn't confuse you then PM me and I will send a reply that does.
Patrick
When considering the current or the watts dissipated by light bulbs consider that the tungsten filaments are not linear devices, i.e. their resistance is temperature dependent and goes up with temp. Running a bulb at half voltage runs it cooler and it has less resistance. Oh by the way... 120 volts AC is the nominal value and is RMS (Root Mean Square) and is the AC voltage required to do the same heating of a resister that a 120 volt DC would cause. The actual peaks of the 120 volt AC is 1.414 times 120 or 170 volts. In the case of the light bulb the filament temperature is essentially the average temperature as the filament has too much thermal mass to follow the voltage as it changes mid cycle.
If that doesn't confuse you then PM me and I will send a reply that does.
Patrick