Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch

   / Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch #1  

flINTLOCK

Platinum Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Messages
649
Location
PA
Tractor
NH TC40DA 2002
I have a 72" woods brushbull, light to medium duty, and want to make sure slip clutch is not frozen from winter outside. I've read that you should loosen bolts on clutch, engage PTO and it should break free if it was frozen. I have read that you need to adjust all bolts to same degree and return them to original tightness. I'm not sure how far to loosen them. Is one turn enough? Is 2 turns too much? Do you have to just wing it??
 
   / Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch #2  
I have a Bush Hog brand Squeeler with a slip clutch. I ended up having to back mine off 2 turns to get it to slip. It was pretty obvious when I engaged the PTO that the blades did not spin. I tried it at 1/2 turn and 1 turn and the blade still turned. After letting it run, you could also tell that the clutch was warm from slipping. I readjusted it back 2 turns on each bolt, but there was also a chart in the manual listing 3 different slip clutch models they used and pictures of each to identify them and the gap that should exist in the plates after you have adjusted it back to the proper tightness.
 
   / Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch #3  
I have a 72" woods brushbull, light to medium duty, and want to make sure slip clutch is not frozen from winter outside. I've read that you should loosen bolts on clutch, engage PTO and it should break free if it was frozen. I have read that you need to adjust all bolts to same degree and return them to original tightness. I'm not sure how far to loosen them. Is one turn enough? Is 2 turns too much? Do you have to just wing it??

Wing it.

Save yourself some time. You may need to back the nuts all the way off the springs to get the clutch to slip. You can try loosening each nut 2 turns, but the third time you get off the tractor to loosen the nuts another 1/2 turn you're gonna stop worrying about precision.

On my tiller, I have to back the nuts nearly all the way off, hit some heavy dirt to get a slip then stop and tighten the nuts a turn or two until it doesn't easily slip anymore.
 
   / Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch #4  
I have the table that tells you how to adjust the nuts so the tension on the springs will be correct for that size of gearbox. It's posted in another thread here, maybe you want to search for it, that's where I got it from. Or, if you just tell me what size your gearbox is, I can tell you what the spring length should be.
 
   / Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch #5  
Or if you want to do it "by the book" you can go to the Woods web site and look up the owners manual for that unit. They have step by step instructions on how to test and reset the slip clutch.
 
   / Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch #6  
I just did my spring prep on my Woods 72" rotary cutter. I had to loosen all the springs to the point of no tension to get my clutch to slip. The book says to tighten the springs until they are 1.1" long...very hard to measure this so i put a couple turns on each one and called it good.
 
   / Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch #7  
I agree with backng the nuts off most of the way to get it to slip.

Also, it is easy to see if it slips if you mark across the plates with a piece of chalk.

Before you loosen the nuts, measure the clearance between the inner and outer plate with a caliper. Then, retighten the nuts to the same measurement when you're done.

You should only need to have the PTO on for a couple of seconds to get it to slip.

This method works for me.
 
 
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