Loading tractor

[garcia]

I noticed when I loaded my new kubota with front loader and box blade for the first time from dealer that the back end of my 16 foot low boy trailor came way down and raised the back of my truck way up.
I have the regular angle iron single ramps. I want to add some kind of brace,
but not to make it to heavy.
Any ideas will help.

 

[jdfire]

A couple of logs or 6x6's cut to the right length. Just put them under the back of the trailer when loading. I've seen this done many times. Not very elegant, but it works.

 

[Egon]

I put some jacks on the back of my trailer. They are removable or can be swung on the pipe holder for storage.

 

[Mousefield]

A couple of logs or 6x6's cut to the right length. Just put them under the back of the trailer when loading. I've seen this done many times. Not very elegant, but it works.

That's what I do when I am unloading my utility trailer if it has been unhitched from the tow vehicle. Just a block of wood under the back end is all it takes, simple and effective.

 

[MESSMAKER]

That's what I do when I am unloading my utility trailer if it has been unhitched from the tow vehicle. Just a block of wood under the back end is all it takes, simple and effective.

You can also use concrete blocks ,floor jacks or jack stands. Just be careful to support the frame and not a single board in your floor. Don't ask me how I know this.:laughing:

 

[deepNdirt]

That's what I do when I am unloading my utility trailer if it has been unhitched from the tow vehicle. Just a block of wood under the back end is all it takes, simple and effective.

I'd never load or unload a tractor onto a trailer not being connected to the tow vehicle,......... especially if he's already stating the weight of the tractor is lifting the rear of his truck being connected to the trailer as it is,
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Do you have hinged ramps? if so you should have some braces weld onto them that would extent to the ground when the ramps were let down, if no hinged ramps you can do as others have suggest a couple of stacked 6x6 blocks or what ever size would take to sure up the rear of the trailers frame, another option would to have some hinged ramps with down braces installed, would sure make life much easier,
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You could also have some square tubbing approx 10" long weld to the sides of the back end of the trailer and use the next size smaller tubbing to fit just inside the larger one have sets of holes drill into the smaller tube that a Pin can be put into when adjusted down to the ground,
kind of on the principle of jack stands for supporting cars etc, ....
in fact might could use a pair of trailer tongue jacks that are built on swivels and locking pins, one bolted/welded on each rear side corner of the trailer,
Here is a quick sketch of what I'm trying to describe

 

[BigD23]

Like others, I just usually crib under the rear of the trailer with wood.

Don

 

[jimmysisson]

And, avoid concrete blocks as props since they can crumble easily with a point load. Wood blocks are cheap and simple.
Jim

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would say that Egon has the best set up.:thumbsup: With trailer tongue jacks at the back side corners you would always be able to adjust for ground variations thus always being able to have your trailer supported evenly.

 

[pat32rf]

Whatever you do, just remember that your trailer will probably ride a few inches lower once the tractor is in place. You want to prevent excessive sagging, but once you are loaded you don't want any weight remaining on the cribs/floor jacks etc so you can remove them without having to jack up the trailer. Beleive me, its a pain.
I like Egons tonque jack idea....