Ford 1700 Overheating

[ralbrec]

I am trying to correct an overheating problem with my Ford 1700. What temp is the thermostat supposed to open. The radiator is free from debris and I plan to flush and tighten the belt a little. I can see that 6 tubes, possibly more, have been soldered shut. I thought I would replace the cap with a new one (the current one is 13 lbs). Does that sound about right. Is there a high performance fan out there somewhere, for us Texas operators? Just thinking out loud. What y'all think?

 

[Don87]

I am trying to correct an overheating problem with my Ford 1700. What temp is the thermostat supposed to open. The radiator is free from debris and I plan to flush and tighten the belt a little. I can see that 6 tubes, possibly more, have been soldered shut. I thought I would replace the cap with a new one (the current one is 13 lbs). Does that sound about right. Is there a high performance fan out there somewhere, for us Texas operators? Just thinking out loud. What y'all think?

6 tubes, maybe more........I'm thinking radiator.
Can't comment on thermostat.

 

[KennyV]

Can you see that the water pump is moving a lot of water... Pump impellers could be gone...

 

[ralbrec]

Thanks for all your help. I am almost certainly going to replace the radiator, but wanted to make sure all the small stuff was right, in the mean time. After it cooled down enough to safely open the cap I checked the coolant level and it was fine. I cranked it up with the cap off and there was a lot of flow, so I suppose the pump is fine. The pump looks to be fairly new. This question does have me thinking that if it was that cool and it was flowing that much...I might want to check/replace the thermostat.

 

[Transit]

While you are replacing the radiator do the same for the T-stat. first the radiator is a must!

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

One thing you should understand and you can do more research in the NH forum. The gauges on these tractors leave a lot to interpretation. We have found by checking with an IR thermometer that when the gauge is at the 3rd mark this is about 200deg. This is not hot.Half way between the 3rd and last mark is about 215. getting warm. Every gauge is different so you should check your to see if these numbers apply.
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

One thing you should understand and you can do more research in the NH forum. The gauges on these tractors leave a lot to interpretation. We have found by checking with an IR thermometer that when the gauge is at the 3rd mark this is about 200deg. This is not hot.Half way between the 3rd and last mark is about 215. getting warm. Every gauge is different so you should check your to see if these numbers apply.
Bill

Bill,

Right on the money. OP had exact the same question in in a parts/repairs section. I put a link there where we all discussed it particularly in reference to Ford 1700.

JC,

 

[ralbrec]

After all this time I fanally got around to tackling this project. With a new radiator ($$$) and a 180 deg. tstat things are running much cooler. I went to do some mowing at the ranch and the gauge never really got over 160 deg. For kicks I wanted to see what kind of temps the engine was hitting at various locations and thought I would share that.

Thanks for all your help,
Bob

 

[kebo]

Cool (no pun intended), sounds like you got it fixed. What did you use for the thermal imaging? We used to have a thermal video camera years ago at a place where I once worked. It was used to detect "hot spots" on printed circuit boards that had shorts on them that wouldn't burn themselves open, or else detect which components were drawing excessive current and getting too hot. We also used it to "see" other things but I won't go into that.

 

[ralbrec]

Same here. It is a newer IR camera we use at work and I needed to get more familiar with it. They are like bionic eyes for tracking down problems in a whole new way..