I purchased a finish mower for my Deere 790 and can't get the collar end of the PTO to go on all the way. I called the dealer and they sent me a new PTO but still it won't work. The "button" end does just fine but the slip collar end will not go on either the tractor or the mower. I tried everything except the right thing.
Attaching PTO
- Thread starter jimpotts
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Marveltone
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I had problems getting mine to go on also. Seems I wasn't pulling back on the slip collar properly. Once I got it to work, I pulled it off and repeated... several times. Just took awhile to get the hang of it. Keep trying!
Joe
Joe
gwdixon
Elite Member
Also, use lots of lube to the point of dripping wet. WD-40, Fluid Film, or the like will loosen things up a bit and help with the sliding. K-Y jelly not recommended.
RoyJackson
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Use some lubrication and a rag and clean the splines on both the tractor's stub shaft and those on the driveshaft U-joints. Feel the splines for burrs while you're at it.
I suggest you rig the driveshaft to the mower first. I'm actually surprised it wasn't hooked up to the implement when delivered.
Remember, if there's a shear pin (on the driveshaft), that U-Joint is to go to the implement end. That should be the "Slip Collar" end, BTW. I strongly suggest you call your dealer to find out if they trimmed that driveshaft (that's explained in the implement manual, so I won't go into it here). If there is no shear pin, you'll need a slip clutch.
I don't care for the Slip Collar locks. They are a PITA to try to rotate the the collar while pushing the U-Joint on to the male splines. One aid (I read about on TBN) was to support the weight of the drive shaft by using a short bungee cord rigged to the implement's upper link hook up point. That does help me quite a bit and it might help you too. Make sure the collar is fully rotated to the unlock position. If you can get the splines started, then rotate the collar, it'll be a bit easier on you.
Anyway, once the driveshaft is rigged to the implement, it's time to hook up to the tractor. The 790's stub shaft rotates by hand...pretty easily. But since this would be the "push pin" lock and you aren't having any trouble with that, no need to go into further detail.
To reiterate, make sure the drive shaft has been trimmed (if required) before you go through all the work of hooking it to the implement. You do not want to damage your tractor or mower if it isn't the correct length!
Good luck and enjoy that sweet little 790!
I suggest you rig the driveshaft to the mower first. I'm actually surprised it wasn't hooked up to the implement when delivered.
Remember, if there's a shear pin (on the driveshaft), that U-Joint is to go to the implement end. That should be the "Slip Collar" end, BTW. I strongly suggest you call your dealer to find out if they trimmed that driveshaft (that's explained in the implement manual, so I won't go into it here). If there is no shear pin, you'll need a slip clutch.
I don't care for the Slip Collar locks. They are a PITA to try to rotate the the collar while pushing the U-Joint on to the male splines. One aid (I read about on TBN) was to support the weight of the drive shaft by using a short bungee cord rigged to the implement's upper link hook up point. That does help me quite a bit and it might help you too. Make sure the collar is fully rotated to the unlock position. If you can get the splines started, then rotate the collar, it'll be a bit easier on you.
Anyway, once the driveshaft is rigged to the implement, it's time to hook up to the tractor. The 790's stub shaft rotates by hand...pretty easily. But since this would be the "push pin" lock and you aren't having any trouble with that, no need to go into further detail.
To reiterate, make sure the drive shaft has been trimmed (if required) before you go through all the work of hooking it to the implement. You do not want to damage your tractor or mower if it isn't the correct length!
Good luck and enjoy that sweet little 790!
One of my PTO shafts has the collar... You push the collar instead of pulling it backwards. It's on a bush hog finish mower, not sure if it's original...
Also, when getting the spines lined up, if you push the pto shaft against the spines, you can't push the button or move the collar... the button or collar has to be "engaged" before you try and connect the two parts...
EDIT: read Spyderlk (next post) explains it much better vvvv
Also, when getting the spines lined up, if you push the pto shaft against the spines, you can't push the button or move the collar... the button or collar has to be "engaged" before you try and connect the two parts...
EDIT: read Spyderlk (next post) explains it much better
vvvv
Last edited:
SPYDERLK
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You have two opposite motions that cannot mix. The collar must be pulled back all the way [usually ~ 1/2+ inch] and held while then pushing the pto shaft fitting onto the spline stub. If there is any difficulty it is quite easy to err by relaxing the hold on the collar while pushing the fitting on. As said ... cleanliness, lube, a little jiggling of the fitting. Also as said, removing all distracting variables will help in discovering the trick. [the front guard flare on the shaft can be a huge problem] ... After you learn youll be able to do it in most any situation. They work, but I hate em
larry
larry
I don't like the collar types either, but that's what my Howse brushhog has. I miss my King Kutter with the standard push button setup. Like everyone said, lots of lube till it's dripping wet. Just make dang sure it's locked onto the shaft by giving it a good tug before you go running the PTO.
tatra805
Silver Member
had a couple of collar ones too,... not anymore
As mentioned it is complete un-logic and counter-intinutive to put these things on and certainly with a not-engaged pto which will rotate freely and simply avoid slipping on the collar shaft.
Now if we are talking about the same collar type shafts (i am in europe but guess they are the same) you can easily destroy the whole plastic contraption. (goes fastest with a nearby hammer after you tried for a while putting it on the PTO an have cut your hands on the PTO shield etc)
What you will find is an ordinary shaft with the pin/spring construction that does work. :thumbsup:
I "converted" my shafts and hey presto...
Safety is 1 thing but these collars are an engineering nightmare.
Plastics that have to slide moving a wedge-form part that will press the original pin-spring mechanism. In an AG environment (dust and dirt dont match with sliding in a positive way as far as my experiences go)
The theory is to slide on the PTO till the pin contacts the tractor shaft en then turn the collar and slide the shaft home. Well, therefore your PTO has to be engaged and your engine turned off so the gears avoid rotation of the PTO.
OK so far BUT the whole collar mechanism is not able to push the pin down due to friction when it contacts the PTO shaft
Almost looks as if it the producers were anticipating we were going to destroy the plastics to get back to basics.:laughing:
That any safety guy comes up with a defense for these things. I am very sorry but the basics about safety is reduce risk, well the best to do that is minimize exposure time and THEN find tricks and contraptions to isolate the risk even more.
I could struggle 10minutes with my hands inside the PTO shield and reduced visibility. Now it takes me less than 30 seconds to slide on the PTO and release the pin. During those seconds i do have the risk that if my engine would start ITSELF the pin can catch my hand, but i'll take that risk any day.
As mentioned it is complete un-logic and counter-intinutive to put these things on and certainly with a not-engaged pto which will rotate freely and simply avoid slipping on the collar shaft.
Now if we are talking about the same collar type shafts (i am in europe but guess they are the same) you can easily destroy the whole plastic contraption. (goes fastest with a nearby hammer after you tried for a while putting it on the PTO an have cut your hands on the PTO shield etc
)What you will find is an ordinary shaft with the pin/spring construction that does work. :thumbsup:
I "converted" my shafts and hey presto...
Safety is 1 thing but these collars are an engineering nightmare.
Plastics that have to slide moving a wedge-form part that will press the original pin-spring mechanism. In an AG environment (dust and dirt dont match with sliding in a positive way as far as my experiences go)
The theory is to slide on the PTO till the pin contacts the tractor shaft en then turn the collar and slide the shaft home. Well, therefore your PTO has to be engaged and your engine turned off so the gears avoid rotation of the PTO.
OK so far BUT the whole collar mechanism is not able to push the pin down due to friction when it contacts the PTO shaft
Almost looks as if it the producers were anticipating we were going to destroy the plastics to get back to basics.:laughing:
That any safety guy comes up with a defense for these things. I am very sorry but the basics about safety is reduce risk, well the best to do that is minimize exposure time and THEN find tricks and contraptions to isolate the risk even more.
I could struggle 10minutes with my hands inside the PTO shield and reduced visibility. Now it takes me less than 30 seconds to slide on the PTO and release the pin. During those seconds i do have the risk that if my engine would start ITSELF the pin can catch my hand, but i'll take that risk any day.
I have to turn myself in to the safety police... even before I ever hooked anything up my pto... I removed the shield that is on the tractor :ashamed: BUT I do treat the pto as if it *wants* to kill me... gotta' be careful around it.