Air Pressure in Loaded tires.

[Charolais]

I just had my rears on my B3200 loaded and I was wondering what is the proper air pressure to use. It seems I read somewhere that you need to drop it below non loaded recommended because of the reduced air volume. What is your experience?

Russ

To much air will cause wear in the center of the tire and to little air will cause wear on the outside of the lugs. The wear will show up soon if you're running on a highway a lot or having slippage from pulling hard in soil.

Most every brand of tractor out there today from compact up has more HP than weight for proper use.

I went through the weight-HP thing a couple years back when I purchased a 87 HP tractor and had traction problems in grass fields pulling a pasture renovator. Engine never bogged down but when traction broke I had 4 holes dug out before I could respond to the slippage.I had all four tires filled with ballast and it helped but didn't solve the problem. I then traded that tractor in for a little more HP(96) and a lot more weight. Problem solved.

I also learned that with radial tires running full tire ballast made it ride rough no matter what the air pressure was. The 96 HP tractor I had the tires filled to 40%. Got good traction and didn't lose ride comfort. If it had regular bias ply, filling the tires wouldn't change the ride as much as radials. The radials need to flex more as they are designed to do so.

Air pressure in tractor tires will vary with the brand of tire and radial vs bias ply. Most tire brands will have a chart on their website for proper inflation. In heavy tillage a pound or two in air pressure can make a lot of difference in traction. I've had bias ply tires that I ran as little as 6 psi and radials I run 14-16 psi for the same job. On the tire I ran 6 psi in for tillage I'd run 12-14 for pulling a spreader that had to be on the highway a lot. The spreader has a lot of tongue weight and needed to inflate to keep tire wear down on the highway. That's why steel wheel weights make more sense on tillage tractors than tire ballast and weight needs to be added in the right place as well.(front /rear weight) But I'm a one man show here and will stick with tire ballast instead of changing steel weights for different jobs.

I've never seen a loader tractor that didn't need extra weight in the rear. Again they have more power than weight and tractors with loaders need rear weight for safety as much as doing the job.

PSI is PSI with ballast or without. Just need to find out what's right for the brand of tire you're running.

 

[2458n]

Calcium in the loaded tires really likes to work on the small spring in the tire stem.

 

[Soundguy]

Mace has some good points though, Soundguy. We run our car or truck tires at a higher pressure for better fuel economy, but higher pressure in a tractor tire (hence, stiffer sidewalls) can reduce traction.
Probably aren't applicable to we small property owners (lawn mowing, some brush cutting), but for an agricultural operator, a guy grading his drive or tilling a food plot; Mace's points make a lot of sense.

I never said not to fill them to the proper level.. i just said that for many.. the proper level is determined by a side glance while you walk by the tracrtor..

soundguy

 

[yooper1]

<snip>... Why don't they sell them filled? </snip>..

Then, if you genuinely believe that ..


why don't they

- include cabs on all tractors?
- include 4x4 on all tractors?
- include FEL's on all tractors?
- include 3 pt tillers on all tractors?
- include back blades on tractors

and so on and so forth..

you get the idea...

$$$$$$$$$$$

if there is a way to make a buck....

 

[Redgoatea]

Then, if you genuinely believe that ..

why don't they

- include cabs on all tractors?
- include 4x4 on all tractors?
- include FEL's on all tractors?
- include 3 pt tillers on all tractors?
- include back blades on tractors

and so on and so forth..

you get the idea...

$$$$$$$$$$$

if there is a way to make a buck....

My point was that not every tire on every tractor needs to be filled just like everyone doesn't need all those implements. There are plenty of tractors just like mine that run just fine in my conditions without the fluid. 7

 

[mullins87]

I just finished loading the back tires on my JD3038E. They came from the dealership with 17psi in them, and that seems to be close when looking at the contact patch. From what I have been reading in this discussion then, I should go back to the original 17psi?

 

[Don87]

I just finished loading the back tires on my JD3038E. They came from the dealership with 17psi in them, and that seems to be close when looking at the contact patch. From what I have been reading in this discussion then, I should go back to the original 17psi?

Yes..

 

[mullins87]

Thanks Don, I needed some confirmation. This tractor is my first new one and the first time I've put liquid in the tires.

 

[jake98]

How much weight are you looking at with 24" R4's? (and I can't find my flux capacitor..)

 

[blueriver]

Don't forget, you have to change from summer air to winter air, and vica versa too. The overall density of the air changes due to seasonal variations, solar flare, and the secondary charge on the flux capacitor.

This is where I get confussed ... when I switch to the summer air, is that synthetic air or regular air or maybe I should use a mix? What if any damage can result in just running winter air year round? I would think the tires would be cooler in the summertime, with the winter air.